lock core seize
12-04-2006, 08:21 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Speaking of little parts flying out... Anyone know what the correct order
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
12-04-2006, 08:21 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Speaking of little parts flying out... Anyone know what the correct order
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
12-04-2006, 08:21 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: lock core seize
Speaking of little parts flying out... Anyone know what the correct order
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
and orientation is for the horn plunger in a YJ? There are three parts,
metal plunger (little button end and flat end), plastic bushing, and spring.
I've tried every which way and can't get the right order or orientation to
keep the horn from staying on.
Scott
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4574404E.52674F43@sympatico.ca...
> Thanks for the clarification.
>
> I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
> get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
> know you they get picky about it.
>
> Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
> will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
> crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
> key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
> door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
> around the cylinder and top of the pins.
>
> Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
> last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
> them lubricated.
>
> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
> mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>>
>> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
>> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
>> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
>> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
>> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
>> not unlock.
>>
>> Thanks for you help,
>>
>> adam
>>
>> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>> >
>> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>> >
>> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>> >
>> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>> >
>> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
>> >
>> > Mike
>> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >
>> > adam wrote:
>> >
>> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
>> > > sets
>> > > for a reasonable price.
>> >
>> > > thanks
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