Cool. I was able to torch most of them, but suffered a bad burn on one of my
fingers from molten bushing.

Carl

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437F6C20.433A2877@sympatico.ca...
>I feel for you! When I took my CJ7 apart only one bolt came out of the
> tub, the rest spun or snapped. I took my spring lift job to a spring
> shop! They torched the suckers apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Carl wrote:
>>
>> This is long, but it details the problems my friend Shaun and I had
>> installing a Rubicon 3.5" Super-Ride system (With full rear sprins) on my
>> 91
>> XJ Laredo. Luckily, we had a vehicle lift, a big air gun, plenty of air,
>> a
>> welder, and plenty of drills, grinders, and other power tools.
>>
>> We started on Friday at 3pm. We didn't leave the shop untill Saturday at
>> 3am. Let me tell you, I have a new respect for stuck bolts.
>>
>> All four rear leaf spring bolts were siezed. I was able to heat 3 of the
>> 4
>> with a torch and muscle them out. The last, the passenger side front leaf
>> spring bolt.. sheared off in the bushing AND broke the weld-nut inside
>> the
>> frame. Yes, I broke them both. We had to bend the spring hangar and cut
>> the
>> spring eye in half. THEN we had to cut the bolt - it turned out the
>> bushing's sleeve had siezed to the bolt. Now we had a hole in the frame
>> with
>> a broken weld-nut and a piece of bolt sticking out. Not good. Plasma
>> cutter
>> wasn't working. We decided to cut a hole in the frame extension welded on
>> where the weld-nut resided, pull it out, and weld a new piece in place
>> with
>> a new weld nut. Without the plasma cutter, we resorted to an air-driven
>> die
>> grinder. Two hours later, the patch was welded into place. The remainder
>> of
>> the rear was pretty uneventful, but I had to loose the crappy tow hitch.
>>
>> What is it with this passenger side? Lower control arm, upper bolt. Same
>> thing. Seized sleeve in the bushing. Ridiculous. We ground it down to
>> flush
>> with the bracket, put a pickle fork between the braket and used a BFH to
>> make a gap and rip the control arm out. Then, for some reason, on the
>> install of the new control arms, the bolt I had just taken out of the
>> driver's side lower control arm frame end mount wouldn't go back thru the
>> frame. None of them would. Scrounge up another bolt..
>>
>> So we installed a longer rear brake line, and I tried to re-position the
>> driver's side front brake line mount after I straightened the tubes as
>> outlined by RE. No dice. Either way, we need to bleed the brakes. This is
>> about 230am. Both rear brake bleeders BROKE OFF. Try the pedal. NOTHING.
>> Said forget it, let a shop fix the brakes. Cleaned up and drove home 20
>> miles with my E-brake.
>>
>> This RE 3.5" lift was a FIGHT every step of the way, an absolute
>> nightmare.
>> I don't think that it had anything to do with Rubicon's parts, design, or
>> quality. The kit with the DT3 shocks rides well and smooth. Most of the
>> parts were correct and fit well. I did have to bore out one side of one
>> lower control arm axle end bolt hole. I also re-drilled the track bar
>> mount.
>>
>> To make matters worse, my spare car that i was going to give to someone
>> whom
>> had their house burn down.... it was stolen last night!
>>
>> All I can say is..wow..
>>
>> Carl

 

Cool. I was able to torch most of them, but suffered a bad burn on one of my
fingers from molten bushing.

Carl

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:437F6C20.433A2877@sympatico.ca...
>I feel for you! When I took my CJ7 apart only one bolt came out of the
> tub, the rest spun or snapped. I took my spring lift job to a spring
> shop! They torched the suckers apart.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Carl wrote:
>>
>> This is long, but it details the problems my friend Shaun and I had
>> installing a Rubicon 3.5" Super-Ride system (With full rear sprins) on my
>> 91
>> XJ Laredo. Luckily, we had a vehicle lift, a big air gun, plenty of air,
>> a
>> welder, and plenty of drills, grinders, and other power tools.
>>
>> We started on Friday at 3pm. We didn't leave the shop untill Saturday at
>> 3am. Let me tell you, I have a new respect for stuck bolts.
>>
>> All four rear leaf spring bolts were siezed. I was able to heat 3 of the
>> 4
>> with a torch and muscle them out. The last, the passenger side front leaf
>> spring bolt.. sheared off in the bushing AND broke the weld-nut inside
>> the
>> frame. Yes, I broke them both. We had to bend the spring hangar and cut
>> the
>> spring eye in half. THEN we had to cut the bolt - it turned out the
>> bushing's sleeve had siezed to the bolt. Now we had a hole in the frame
>> with
>> a broken weld-nut and a piece of bolt sticking out. Not good. Plasma
>> cutter
>> wasn't working. We decided to cut a hole in the frame extension welded on
>> where the weld-nut resided, pull it out, and weld a new piece in place
>> with
>> a new weld nut. Without the plasma cutter, we resorted to an air-driven
>> die
>> grinder. Two hours later, the patch was welded into place. The remainder
>> of
>> the rear was pretty uneventful, but I had to loose the crappy tow hitch.
>>
>> What is it with this passenger side? Lower control arm, upper bolt. Same
>> thing. Seized sleeve in the bushing. Ridiculous. We ground it down to
>> flush
>> with the bracket, put a pickle fork between the braket and used a BFH to
>> make a gap and rip the control arm out. Then, for some reason, on the
>> install of the new control arms, the bolt I had just taken out of the
>> driver's side lower control arm frame end mount wouldn't go back thru the
>> frame. None of them would. Scrounge up another bolt..
>>
>> So we installed a longer rear brake line, and I tried to re-position the
>> driver's side front brake line mount after I straightened the tubes as
>> outlined by RE. No dice. Either way, we need to bleed the brakes. This is
>> about 230am. Both rear brake bleeders BROKE OFF. Try the pedal. NOTHING.
>> Said forget it, let a shop fix the brakes. Cleaned up and drove home 20
>> miles with my E-brake.
>>
>> This RE 3.5" lift was a FIGHT every step of the way, an absolute
>> nightmare.
>> I don't think that it had anything to do with Rubicon's parts, design, or
>> quality. The kit with the DT3 shocks rides well and smooth. Most of the
>> parts were correct and fit well. I did have to bore out one side of one
>> lower control arm axle end bolt hole. I also re-drilled the track bar
>> mount.
>>
>> To make matters worse, my spare car that i was going to give to someone
>> whom
>> had their house burn down.... it was stolen last night!
>>
>> All I can say is..wow..
>>
>> Carl

 

did you have plenty of beer?



"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:CJudnbpZOKfdwOLeRVn-tg@comcast.com...
> This is long, but it details the problems my friend Shaun and I had
> installing a Rubicon 3.5" Super-Ride system (With full rear sprins) on my
91
> XJ Laredo. Luckily, we had a vehicle lift, a big air gun, plenty of air, a
> welder, and plenty of drills, grinders, and other power tools.
>
> We started on Friday at 3pm. We didn't leave the shop untill Saturday at
> 3am. Let me tell you, I have a new respect for stuck bolts.
>
> All four rear leaf spring bolts were siezed. I was able to heat 3 of the 4
> with a torch and muscle them out. The last, the passenger side front leaf
> spring bolt.. sheared off in the bushing AND broke the weld-nut inside the
> frame. Yes, I broke them both. We had to bend the spring hangar and cut
the
> spring eye in half. THEN we had to cut the bolt - it turned out the
> bushing's sleeve had siezed to the bolt. Now we had a hole in the frame
with
> a broken weld-nut and a piece of bolt sticking out. Not good. Plasma
cutter
> wasn't working. We decided to cut a hole in the frame extension welded on
> where the weld-nut resided, pull it out, and weld a new piece in place
with
> a new weld nut. Without the plasma cutter, we resorted to an air-driven
die
> grinder. Two hours later, the patch was welded into place. The remainder
of
> the rear was pretty uneventful, but I had to loose the crappy tow hitch.
>
> What is it with this passenger side? Lower control arm, upper bolt. Same
> thing. Seized sleeve in the bushing. Ridiculous. We ground it down to
flush
> with the bracket, put a pickle fork between the braket and used a BFH to
> make a gap and rip the control arm out. Then, for some reason, on the
> install of the new control arms, the bolt I had just taken out of the
> driver's side lower control arm frame end mount wouldn't go back thru the
> frame. None of them would. Scrounge up another bolt..
>
> So we installed a longer rear brake line, and I tried to re-position the
> driver's side front brake line mount after I straightened the tubes as
> outlined by RE. No dice. Either way, we need to bleed the brakes. This is
> about 230am. Both rear brake bleeders BROKE OFF. Try the pedal. NOTHING.
> Said forget it, let a shop fix the brakes. Cleaned up and drove home 20
> miles with my E-brake.
>
> This RE 3.5" lift was a FIGHT every step of the way, an absolute
nightmare.
> I don't think that it had anything to do with Rubicon's parts, design, or
> quality. The kit with the DT3 shocks rides well and smooth. Most of the
> parts were correct and fit well. I did have to bore out one side of one
> lower control arm axle end bolt hole. I also re-drilled the track bar
mount.
>
> To make matters worse, my spare car that i was going to give to someone
whom
> had their house burn down.... it was stolen last night!
>
> All I can say is..wow..
>
> Carl
>
>

 

did you have plenty of beer?



"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:CJudnbpZOKfdwOLeRVn-tg@comcast.com...
> This is long, but it details the problems my friend Shaun and I had
> installing a Rubicon 3.5" Super-Ride system (With full rear sprins) on my
91
> XJ Laredo. Luckily, we had a vehicle lift, a big air gun, plenty of air, a
> welder, and plenty of drills, grinders, and other power tools.
>
> We started on Friday at 3pm. We didn't leave the shop untill Saturday at
> 3am. Let me tell you, I have a new respect for stuck bolts.
>
> All four rear leaf spring bolts were siezed. I was able to heat 3 of the 4
> with a torch and muscle them out. The last, the passenger side front leaf
> spring bolt.. sheared off in the bushing AND broke the weld-nut inside the
> frame. Yes, I broke them both. We had to bend the spring hangar and cut
the
> spring eye in half. THEN we had to cut the bolt - it turned out the
> bushing's sleeve had siezed to the bolt. Now we had a hole in the frame
with
> a broken weld-nut and a piece of bolt sticking out. Not good. Plasma
cutter
> wasn't working. We decided to cut a hole in the frame extension welded on
> where the weld-nut resided, pull it out, and weld a new piece in place
with
> a new weld nut. Without the plasma cutter, we resorted to an air-driven
die
> grinder. Two hours later, the patch was welded into place. The remainder
of
> the rear was pretty uneventful, but I had to loose the crappy tow hitch.
>
> What is it with this passenger side? Lower control arm, upper bolt. Same
> thing. Seized sleeve in the bushing. Ridiculous. We ground it down to
flush
> with the bracket, put a pickle fork between the braket and used a BFH to
> make a gap and rip the control arm out. Then, for some reason, on the
> install of the new control arms, the bolt I had just taken out of the
> driver's side lower control arm frame end mount wouldn't go back thru the
> frame. None of them would. Scrounge up another bolt..
>
> So we installed a longer rear brake line, and I tried to re-position the
> driver's side front brake line mount after I straightened the tubes as
> outlined by RE. No dice. Either way, we need to bleed the brakes. This is
> about 230am. Both rear brake bleeders BROKE OFF. Try the pedal. NOTHING.
> Said forget it, let a shop fix the brakes. Cleaned up and drove home 20
> miles with my E-brake.
>
> This RE 3.5" lift was a FIGHT every step of the way, an absolute
nightmare.
> I don't think that it had anything to do with Rubicon's parts, design, or
> quality. The kit with the DT3 shocks rides well and smooth. Most of the
> parts were correct and fit well. I did have to bore out one side of one
> lower control arm axle end bolt hole. I also re-drilled the track bar
mount.
>
> To make matters worse, my spare car that i was going to give to someone
whom
> had their house burn down.... it was stolen last night!
>
> All I can say is..wow..
>
> Carl
>
>

 

did you have plenty of beer?



"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:CJudnbpZOKfdwOLeRVn-tg@comcast.com...
> This is long, but it details the problems my friend Shaun and I had
> installing a Rubicon 3.5" Super-Ride system (With full rear sprins) on my
91
> XJ Laredo. Luckily, we had a vehicle lift, a big air gun, plenty of air, a
> welder, and plenty of drills, grinders, and other power tools.
>
> We started on Friday at 3pm. We didn't leave the shop untill Saturday at
> 3am. Let me tell you, I have a new respect for stuck bolts.
>
> All four rear leaf spring bolts were siezed. I was able to heat 3 of the 4
> with a torch and muscle them out. The last, the passenger side front leaf
> spring bolt.. sheared off in the bushing AND broke the weld-nut inside the
> frame. Yes, I broke them both. We had to bend the spring hangar and cut
the
> spring eye in half. THEN we had to cut the bolt - it turned out the
> bushing's sleeve had siezed to the bolt. Now we had a hole in the frame
with
> a broken weld-nut and a piece of bolt sticking out. Not good. Plasma
cutter
> wasn't working. We decided to cut a hole in the frame extension welded on
> where the weld-nut resided, pull it out, and weld a new piece in place
with
> a new weld nut. Without the plasma cutter, we resorted to an air-driven
die
> grinder. Two hours later, the patch was welded into place. The remainder
of
> the rear was pretty uneventful, but I had to loose the crappy tow hitch.
>
> What is it with this passenger side? Lower control arm, upper bolt. Same
> thing. Seized sleeve in the bushing. Ridiculous. We ground it down to
flush
> with the bracket, put a pickle fork between the braket and used a BFH to
> make a gap and rip the control arm out. Then, for some reason, on the
> install of the new control arms, the bolt I had just taken out of the
> driver's side lower control arm frame end mount wouldn't go back thru the
> frame. None of them would. Scrounge up another bolt..
>
> So we installed a longer rear brake line, and I tried to re-position the
> driver's side front brake line mount after I straightened the tubes as
> outlined by RE. No dice. Either way, we need to bleed the brakes. This is
> about 230am. Both rear brake bleeders BROKE OFF. Try the pedal. NOTHING.
> Said forget it, let a shop fix the brakes. Cleaned up and drove home 20
> miles with my E-brake.
>
> This RE 3.5" lift was a FIGHT every step of the way, an absolute
nightmare.
> I don't think that it had anything to do with Rubicon's parts, design, or
> quality. The kit with the DT3 shocks rides well and smooth. Most of the
> parts were correct and fit well. I did have to bore out one side of one
> lower control arm axle end bolt hole. I also re-drilled the track bar
mount.
>
> To make matters worse, my spare car that i was going to give to someone
whom
> had their house burn down.... it was stolen last night!
>
> All I can say is..wow..
>
> Carl
>
>

 

Just remember to tighten it first. I learned long ago a breaker bar
was a complete waste of time.
And be prepared, I always buy a new set first, so I could just use
oxyacetylene.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl wrote:
>
> Bill -
> We had a big *** 3/4" drive impact wrench that could spin my arms off.
> Hopefully it comes apart easier next time.
>
> Carl

 

Just remember to tighten it first. I learned long ago a breaker bar
was a complete waste of time.
And be prepared, I always buy a new set first, so I could just use
oxyacetylene.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl wrote:
>
> Bill -
> We had a big *** 3/4" drive impact wrench that could spin my arms off.
> Hopefully it comes apart easier next time.
>
> Carl

 

Just remember to tighten it first. I learned long ago a breaker bar
was a complete waste of time.
And be prepared, I always buy a new set first, so I could just use
oxyacetylene.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl wrote:
>
> Bill -
> We had a big *** 3/4" drive impact wrench that could spin my arms off.
> Hopefully it comes apart easier next time.
>
> Carl

 

That's why we use welder's gloves, next lesson will be always cover
your ears.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl wrote:
>
> Cool. I was able to torch most of them, but suffered a bad burn on one of my
> fingers from molten bushing.
>
> Carl

 

That's why we use welder's gloves, next lesson will be always cover
your ears.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl wrote:
>
> Cool. I was able to torch most of them, but suffered a bad burn on one of my
> fingers from molten bushing.
>
> Carl