In <Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com> dilla1986 wrote:
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace
> the wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow
> a map and in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers,
> amplifiers and speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of
> difficulty associated with installing the kit. Is it just going to be
> a time consuming meticulous process to follow each wire from the fuse
> block, etc.

I had to rewire my pickup truck and the painless kit saved me no end of
headaches. Highly Recommended!

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

 

In <Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com> dilla1986 wrote:
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace
> the wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow
> a map and in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers,
> amplifiers and speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of
> difficulty associated with installing the kit. Is it just going to be
> a time consuming meticulous process to follow each wire from the fuse
> block, etc.

I had to rewire my pickup truck and the painless kit saved me no end of
headaches. Highly Recommended!

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

 

In <Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com> dilla1986 wrote:
> From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace
> the wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow
> a map and in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers,
> amplifiers and speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of
> difficulty associated with installing the kit. Is it just going to be
> a time consuming meticulous process to follow each wire from the fuse
> block, etc.

I had to rewire my pickup truck and the painless kit saved me no end of
headaches. Highly Recommended!

----------------------------------------------------
Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org
Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email.
Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
http://www.rawlinsbrothers.org/bhfaq/

 

I have the Haynes Manual...got that from the seller of the first CJ I
purchased.

So if I perform the Nutter Bypass, any problems passing Tx State(or any
other) emission test? Where do i find Nutter bypass instructions, or is
kind of remove wires and plugs and components attached to this computer?

Ignition module then will remain unmolested.

Plugs looked like crap, so i put in new ones right before I had a rebuilt
carb put in by a local shop. It
started running a little rough about 500 miles later, so i pulled plugs
again. Oil gunk on a couple and oil coming out the exhaust. she does smoke
but not a lot. Also, cannot tell how much i burn cause it leaks out the
valve cover and i think now the rear seal, but that's another issue.

thanks for the help!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A4459.CD4CD30@sympatico.ca...
> I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
>
> The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
>
> The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
> block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
> the tub.
>
> That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
> garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
> is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
> adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
>
> The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
> washer bottle.
>
> As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
> up first, then if needed the engine.
>
> Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
> every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
> can do wonders for them.
>
> Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
> takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
> smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> dilla1986 wrote:
> >
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla

 

I have the Haynes Manual...got that from the seller of the first CJ I
purchased.

So if I perform the Nutter Bypass, any problems passing Tx State(or any
other) emission test? Where do i find Nutter bypass instructions, or is
kind of remove wires and plugs and components attached to this computer?

Ignition module then will remain unmolested.

Plugs looked like crap, so i put in new ones right before I had a rebuilt
carb put in by a local shop. It
started running a little rough about 500 miles later, so i pulled plugs
again. Oil gunk on a couple and oil coming out the exhaust. she does smoke
but not a lot. Also, cannot tell how much i burn cause it leaks out the
valve cover and i think now the rear seal, but that's another issue.

thanks for the help!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A4459.CD4CD30@sympatico.ca...
> I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
>
> The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
>
> The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
> block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
> the tub.
>
> That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
> garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
> is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
> adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
>
> The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
> washer bottle.
>
> As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
> up first, then if needed the engine.
>
> Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
> every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
> can do wonders for them.
>
> Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
> takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
> smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> dilla1986 wrote:
> >
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla

 

I have the Haynes Manual...got that from the seller of the first CJ I
purchased.

So if I perform the Nutter Bypass, any problems passing Tx State(or any
other) emission test? Where do i find Nutter bypass instructions, or is
kind of remove wires and plugs and components attached to this computer?

Ignition module then will remain unmolested.

Plugs looked like crap, so i put in new ones right before I had a rebuilt
carb put in by a local shop. It
started running a little rough about 500 miles later, so i pulled plugs
again. Oil gunk on a couple and oil coming out the exhaust. she does smoke
but not a lot. Also, cannot tell how much i burn cause it leaks out the
valve cover and i think now the rear seal, but that's another issue.

thanks for the help!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A4459.CD4CD30@sympatico.ca...
> I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
>
> The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
>
> The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
> block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
> the tub.
>
> That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
> garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
> is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
> adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
>
> The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
> washer bottle.
>
> As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
> up first, then if needed the engine.
>
> Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
> every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
> can do wonders for them.
>
> Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
> takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
> smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> dilla1986 wrote:
> >
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla

 

I have the Haynes Manual...got that from the seller of the first CJ I
purchased.

So if I perform the Nutter Bypass, any problems passing Tx State(or any
other) emission test? Where do i find Nutter bypass instructions, or is
kind of remove wires and plugs and components attached to this computer?

Ignition module then will remain unmolested.

Plugs looked like crap, so i put in new ones right before I had a rebuilt
carb put in by a local shop. It
started running a little rough about 500 miles later, so i pulled plugs
again. Oil gunk on a couple and oil coming out the exhaust. she does smoke
but not a lot. Also, cannot tell how much i burn cause it leaks out the
valve cover and i think now the rear seal, but that's another issue.

thanks for the help!


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:409A4459.CD4CD30@sympatico.ca...
> I have been told the painless wiring is as the name implies.
>
> The $20.00 Haynes manual has a perfect wiring schematic for the CJ's.
>
> The CJ harness is in modules that terminate with plugs at the fuse
> block. The engine is one, the front lights a second, the dash a 3rd and
> the tub.
>
> That unit under the dash is a Ford emissions computer and is a piece of
> garbage if you change 'anything' on or about the engine. Killing that
> is called the 'Nutter' bypass after the gent who did the write-up. That
> adds a fast 25% seat of the pants boost in power and mileage.
>
> The ignition module in located on the fender 'waaay' down under the
> washer bottle.
>
> As far as the order of things, I think I would do the wiring and a tune
> up first, then if needed the engine.
>
> Most folks don't realize you are 'supposed' to put a kit in the carb
> every time you change the plugs. The kits cost about twenty bucks and
> can do wonders for them.
>
> Are you sure your plugs are oil fouled? How much oil do you burn? It
> takes a 'lot' of oil to foul plugs. She would have to be a good blue
> smoker. Fouled plugs are more likely a carb or tune up issue.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> dilla1986 wrote:
> >
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla

 

thansk, i'll go over there and check it out. Heat shrink and solder sounds
great.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c7dhh30qg1@enews4.newsguy.com...
> I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
> installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
> consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
> cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that
on
> al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless
recommended,
> I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
> took to install.
>
> The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
> color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
> product, far better than the original it replaced.
>
> "dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
> and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
> meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
> fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla
> >
> >
>
>

 

thansk, i'll go over there and check it out. Heat shrink and solder sounds
great.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c7dhh30qg1@enews4.newsguy.com...
> I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
> installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
> consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
> cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that
on
> al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless
recommended,
> I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
> took to install.
>
> The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
> color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
> product, far better than the original it replaced.
>
> "dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
> and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
> meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
> fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla
> >
> >
>
>

 

thansk, i'll go over there and check it out. Heat shrink and solder sounds
great.

"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c7dhh30qg1@enews4.newsguy.com...
> I left you a detailed response over on the other forum. Last year I
> installed one of the Painless kits on my '76 CJ5 restoration project and
> consider it one of the best upgrades I made on the Jeep. Well worth the
> cost. FYI, it took me two days work to install, however bear in mind that
on
> al, the terminal, rather than just cruimp them on like Painless
recommended,
> I used heat shrink and solder. That may have doubked the amount of time it
> took to install.
>
> The instructions are very good, and each wire is labeed and numbered, plus
> color coded to the factory diagram. It was a fabulously high quality
> product, far better than the original it replaced.
>
> "dilla1986" <dilla1986@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:Y1pmc.7815$DZ4.1192@newssvr23.news.prodigy.co m...
> > From the multiple cracked wires under my hood, it is time to replace the
> > wires for my '83 CJ-7, 258. I am no electrician but I can follow a map
> and
> > in my younger days loved to install stereos, equalizers, amplifiers and
> > speakers. I could use some feedback on the level of difficulty
associated
> > with installing the kit. Is it just going to be a time consuming
> meticulous
> > process to follow each wire from the fuse block, etc.
> >
> > Also, I believe the Ignition Control Module is mounted under the dash
and
> > the wires come through the firewall. Is the bundle of wires also
included
> > in the kit?
> >
> > Lastly, due to an oil leak and some nasty looking spark plugs ( oil
> fouled)
> > I was considering having the engine rebuilt or even upgrading to a 304.
> > Question is which situation is best: 1.) do I install painless wires
then
> > pull motor, 2.) pull motor, put back in then install wires, or 3.) pull
> > motor, install wires with motor out, then put motor back in?
> >
> > Any and all feedback is needed and appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dilla
> >
> >
>
>