Thanks for the tips Mike!! I've never used these other products but yep
they'd be worth using I'm sure. Have a preference for PB Blaster or Liquid
Wrench? Have a really great little ACE hardware here that I bet has both.

Also, if you've never tried TriFlow teflon lube it's a great product too. I
use it on my bicycle chains and it doesn't grab as much dirt as WD-40 does
and it's really slippery stuff- you can feel a big difference in pedaling
effort. Having to learn about these specialized lubes and such since I'm now
in salt air/sand blast all the time. Never needed anything except WD-40
before heh.

Skip

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4002B383.4E42B99E@sympatico.ca...
> One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It
> is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a
> penetrating fluid.
>
> Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour
> what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Thanks much.
> >
> > Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and
not
> > the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
> >
> > For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints
were
> > tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to
drive
> > the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> > worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> > tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
> >
> > As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as
provided by
> > L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
> >
> > The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> > cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > > BMFH tool.
> > >
> > > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > > together again.
> > >
> > > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> > >
> > > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > > >
> > > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > > >
> > > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> > about 2
> > > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing
a
> > major
> > > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it
on
> > the
> > > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > > >
> > > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> > using a
> > > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use
new
> > gear
> > > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine.
Nice
> > and
> > > > clear.
> > > >
> > > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission
(not
> > in a
> > > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps
to
> > "walk
> > > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized
bearing
> > > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear
retaining
> > > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> > re-use
> > > > those?)
> > > >
> > > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> > caps)
> > > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage
on
> > the
> > > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> > mentioned a
> > > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The
steel
> > at
> > > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > > >
> > > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps?
Some
> > > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > > >
> > > > (==============================)
> > > >
> > > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could
add
> > brake
> > > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate
the
> > slave
> > > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > > >
> > > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at
the
> > > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> > look at
> > > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam)
So
> > I'm
> > > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the
xmission
> > is
> > > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing
that
> > > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> > "rust
> > > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust.
Jeep
> > had
> > > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> > down
> > > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to
deal
> > with
> > > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a
visit
> > to
> > > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in
this
> > > > > brake cylinder:
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > m wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

Thanks for the tips Mike!! I've never used these other products but yep
they'd be worth using I'm sure. Have a preference for PB Blaster or Liquid
Wrench? Have a really great little ACE hardware here that I bet has both.

Also, if you've never tried TriFlow teflon lube it's a great product too. I
use it on my bicycle chains and it doesn't grab as much dirt as WD-40 does
and it's really slippery stuff- you can feel a big difference in pedaling
effort. Having to learn about these specialized lubes and such since I'm now
in salt air/sand blast all the time. Never needed anything except WD-40
before heh.

Skip

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4002B383.4E42B99E@sympatico.ca...
> One tip, save the WD40 for things that get wet and need to be dried. It
> is a great water displacement fluid, but it totally sucks as a
> penetrating fluid.
>
> Get something like PB Blaster or liquid wrench. They will do in an hour
> what WD40 takes 3 days to loosen up.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Thanks much.
> >
> > Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and
not
> > the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
> >
> > For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints
were
> > tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to
drive
> > the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> > worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> > tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
> >
> > As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as
provided by
> > L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
> >
> > The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> > cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > > BMFH tool.
> > >
> > > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > > together again.
> > >
> > > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> > >
> > > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > > >
> > > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > > >
> > > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> > about 2
> > > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing
a
> > major
> > > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it
on
> > the
> > > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > > >
> > > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> > using a
> > > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use
new
> > gear
> > > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine.
Nice
> > and
> > > > clear.
> > > >
> > > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission
(not
> > in a
> > > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps
to
> > "walk
> > > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized
bearing
> > > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear
retaining
> > > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> > re-use
> > > > those?)
> > > >
> > > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> > caps)
> > > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage
on
> > the
> > > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> > mentioned a
> > > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The
steel
> > at
> > > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > > >
> > > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps?
Some
> > > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > > >
> > > > (==============================)
> > > >
> > > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could
add
> > brake
> > > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate
the
> > slave
> > > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > > >
> > > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at
the
> > > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> > look at
> > > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam)
So
> > I'm
> > > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the
xmission
> > is
> > > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing
that
> > > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > > >
> > > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> > "rust
> > > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust.
Jeep
> > had
> > > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> > down
> > > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to
deal
> > with
> > > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a
visit
> > to
> > > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in
this
> > > > > brake cylinder:
http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > > >
> > > > > m wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first
> thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out.
> I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty
> good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape
> as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need
> some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast
> the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing
> most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop
> around here?
>
> Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh?
>
> Skip
> (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol)
>

Hi Skip,
Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the
trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the
local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate
them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told
them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways.

Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom).

 

<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first
> thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out.
> I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty
> good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape
> as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need
> some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast
> the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing
> most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop
> around here?
>
> Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh?
>
> Skip
> (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol)
>

Hi Skip,
Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the
trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the
local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate
them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told
them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways.

Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom).

 

<m> wrote in message news:<btugng0rqm@enews3.newsguy.com>...
> Oh that's a big 10-4 on the 30 mile run up to the cut. I did that first
> thing after I got the jeep over here on the ferry while the bridge was out.
> I need to get some wider tires and rims at some point but I've gotten pretty
> good at staying un-stuck. Wish the topside of the jeep was in as good shape
> as the underside is. Slopped some Napasco on the driveshaft and might need
> some in a couple of other spots underneath but looks like it will outlast
> the topside. Leaf springs need it too but they did a good job of rubberizing
> most of the underside at the factory. Hey do you know a good body shop
> around here?
>
> Great to see the sunshine this week after that danged overcast crap, eh?
>
> Skip
> (m=Skip by the way... I hate spam and finally got it under control lol)
>

Hi Skip,
Negative on the body shop...I'm a budding Jeeper..still learning the
trades and still learning the basics. I did take my Jeep into the
local Jeep dealership in Brownsville (Don Johnson) and would not rate
them very highly--they forgot to do a few of the items that I told
them to do. So I had to do it myself. Oh well, learned anyways.

Feel free to shoot an email my way (nickm@rgv.rr.DIESPAMMERScom).