The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...

Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)

A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.

At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
clear.

So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
those?)

Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.

What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?

(==============================)

So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
so I could drive the Jeep.

However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
the reservoir, I see a lot of
small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.

In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
the body shop is coming up as well.



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> m wrote:
> >
> > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?

 

I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
(one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
BMFH tool.

The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
together again.

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:

> The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
>
> Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
>
> A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
> years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
> number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
> beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
>
> At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
> liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
> oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
> clear.
>
> So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
> critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
> out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
> those?)
>
> Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
> trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
> mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
> torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
> the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
>
> What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
>
> (==============================)
>
> So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
> fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
> so I could drive the Jeep.
>
> However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
> the reservoir, I see a lot of
> small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
> wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
> external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
>
> In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
> converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
> hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
> here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
> some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
> the body shop is coming up as well.
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > m wrote:
> > >
> > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
(one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
BMFH tool.

The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
together again.

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:

> The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
>
> Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
>
> A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
> years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
> number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
> beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
>
> At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
> liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
> oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
> clear.
>
> So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
> critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
> out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
> those?)
>
> Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
> trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
> mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
> torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
> the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
>
> What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
>
> (==============================)
>
> So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
> fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
> so I could drive the Jeep.
>
> However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
> the reservoir, I see a lot of
> small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
> wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
> external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
>
> In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
> converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
> hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
> here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
> some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
> the body shop is coming up as well.
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > m wrote:
> > >
> > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
(one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
BMFH tool.

The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
together again.

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:

> The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
>
> Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
>
> A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island about 2
> years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a major
> number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on the
> beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
>
> At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose using a
> liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new gear
> oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice and
> clear.
>
> So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not in a
> critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to "walk
> out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to re-use
> those?)
>
> Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing caps)
> trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on the
> mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he mentioned a
> torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel at
> the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
>
> What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
>
> (==============================)
>
> So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add brake
> fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the slave
> so I could drive the Jeep.
>
> However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then look at
> the reservoir, I see a lot of
> small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So I'm
> wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission is
> external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
>
> In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a "rust
> converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep had
> hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got down
> here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal with
> some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit to
> the body shop is coming up as well.
>
>
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > m wrote:
> > >
> > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

Thanks much.

Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.

For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.

As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)

The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.




"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> BMFH tool.
>
> The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> together again.
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
>
> > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> >
> > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> >
> > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
about 2
> > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
major
> > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
the
> > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> >
> > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
using a
> > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
gear
> > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
and
> > clear.
> >
> > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
in a
> > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
"walk
> > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
re-use
> > those?)
> >
> > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
caps)
> > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
the
> > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
mentioned a
> > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
at
> > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> >
> > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> >
> > (==============================)
> >
> > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
brake
> > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
slave
> > so I could drive the Jeep.
> >
> > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
look at
> > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
I'm
> > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
is
> > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> >
> > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
"rust
> > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
had
> > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
down
> > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
with
> > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
to
> > the body shop is coming up as well.
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > m wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

Thanks much.

Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.

For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.

As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)

The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.




"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> BMFH tool.
>
> The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> together again.
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
>
> > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> >
> > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> >
> > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
about 2
> > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
major
> > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
the
> > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> >
> > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
using a
> > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
gear
> > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
and
> > clear.
> >
> > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
in a
> > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
"walk
> > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
re-use
> > those?)
> >
> > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
caps)
> > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
the
> > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
mentioned a
> > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
at
> > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> >
> > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> >
> > (==============================)
> >
> > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
brake
> > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
slave
> > so I could drive the Jeep.
> >
> > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
look at
> > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
I'm
> > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
is
> > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> >
> > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
"rust
> > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
had
> > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
down
> > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
with
> > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
to
> > the body shop is coming up as well.
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > m wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

Thanks much.

Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.

For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.

As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)

The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.




"Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> BMFH tool.
>
> The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> together again.
>
> On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
>
> > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> >
> > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> >
> > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
about 2
> > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
major
> > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
the
> > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> >
> > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
using a
> > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
gear
> > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
and
> > clear.
> >
> > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
in a
> > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
"walk
> > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
re-use
> > those?)
> >
> > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
caps)
> > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
the
> > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
mentioned a
> > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
at
> > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> >
> > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> >
> > (==============================)
> >
> > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
brake
> > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
slave
> > so I could drive the Jeep.
> >
> > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
look at
> > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
I'm
> > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
is
> > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> >
> > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
"rust
> > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
had
> > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
down
> > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
with
> > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
to
> > the body shop is coming up as well.
> >
> >
> >
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > m wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I worked for my father-in-law for a year or two in his service station
(way back when they were actually SERVICE stations) and he had this
huge vise the used to do u-joints - damend thing must have opened
easily 10-11 inches. He had a fixture he had welded up that had a
hole for the exiting cup and a fork that pushed on the cross arms for
removal. I think that was the only time I ever saw anyone use
anything except the opposite bearing cap to push the old ones out ( or
the bare shaft once the first side was done.

One hint: when you go to put the new ones in, make sure you start them
straight into the yoke. If they get a bit cocked off to one side they
are a bitch and a half to do anything with.

Sounds like you might want to find someone who has done this before to
check on you as you go.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 04:59:03 UTC <m> wrote:

> Thanks much.
>
> Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
> the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
>
> For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
> tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
> the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
>
> As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
> L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
>
> The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
>
>
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > BMFH tool.
> >
> > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > together again.
> >
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> >
> > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > >
> > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > >
> > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> about 2
> > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
> major
> > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
> the
> > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > >
> > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> using a
> > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
> gear
> > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
> and
> > > clear.
> > >
> > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
> in a
> > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
> "walk
> > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> re-use
> > > those?)
> > >
> > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> caps)
> > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
> the
> > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> mentioned a
> > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
> at
> > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > >
> > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > >
> > > (==============================)
> > >
> > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
> brake
> > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
> slave
> > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > >
> > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> look at
> > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
> I'm
> > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
> is
> > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > >
> > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> "rust
> > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
> had
> > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> down
> > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
> with
> > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
> to
> > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > m wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I worked for my father-in-law for a year or two in his service station
(way back when they were actually SERVICE stations) and he had this
huge vise the used to do u-joints - damend thing must have opened
easily 10-11 inches. He had a fixture he had welded up that had a
hole for the exiting cup and a fork that pushed on the cross arms for
removal. I think that was the only time I ever saw anyone use
anything except the opposite bearing cap to push the old ones out ( or
the bare shaft once the first side was done.

One hint: when you go to put the new ones in, make sure you start them
straight into the yoke. If they get a bit cocked off to one side they
are a bitch and a half to do anything with.

Sounds like you might want to find someone who has done this before to
check on you as you go.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 04:59:03 UTC <m> wrote:

> Thanks much.
>
> Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
> the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
>
> For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
> tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
> the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
>
> As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
> L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
>
> The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
>
>
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > BMFH tool.
> >
> > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > together again.
> >
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> >
> > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > >
> > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > >
> > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> about 2
> > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
> major
> > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
> the
> > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > >
> > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> using a
> > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
> gear
> > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
> and
> > > clear.
> > >
> > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
> in a
> > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
> "walk
> > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> re-use
> > > those?)
> > >
> > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> caps)
> > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
> the
> > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> mentioned a
> > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
> at
> > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > >
> > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > >
> > > (==============================)
> > >
> > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
> brake
> > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
> slave
> > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > >
> > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> look at
> > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
> I'm
> > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
> is
> > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > >
> > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> "rust
> > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
> had
> > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> down
> > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
> with
> > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
> to
> > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > m wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

I worked for my father-in-law for a year or two in his service station
(way back when they were actually SERVICE stations) and he had this
huge vise the used to do u-joints - damend thing must have opened
easily 10-11 inches. He had a fixture he had welded up that had a
hole for the exiting cup and a fork that pushed on the cross arms for
removal. I think that was the only time I ever saw anyone use
anything except the opposite bearing cap to push the old ones out ( or
the bare shaft once the first side was done.

One hint: when you go to put the new ones in, make sure you start them
straight into the yoke. If they get a bit cocked off to one side they
are a bitch and a half to do anything with.

Sounds like you might want to find someone who has done this before to
check on you as you go.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 04:59:03 UTC <m> wrote:

> Thanks much.
>
> Was banging on the exposed ends of the u-joint without bearing cups and not
> the yoke... but sounds like I should just bang on the bearing cups.
>
> For some reason the it looked like the bearing cups on the new u-joints were
> tapered (with the wider end at the outside)... so that if I tried to drive
> the old ones out the other side, it would just seat the bearing cup even
> worse. If they're not tapered then sounds a lot easier. Maybe will be ok
> tomorrow after the WD-40 bath.
>
> As far as "walking the bearings out" I was ripping off the term I saw in
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html as provided by
> L.W. (ßill) ------ III. ;o)
>
> The cups at the rear, held in by the straps, were the easiest... and the
> cups at the journal cross came out fairly easily too.
>
>
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@codenet.net> wrote in message
> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-4jeDB3OvUQhn@anon.none.net...
> > I'm not clear on how you "walked the bearings out..." but the usual
> > method is to remove the C-clips that hold the bearing caps in place
> > (one on each cap) then put a socket under one end to serve as a
> > receiver. Drive the other end thru the yoke to push the opposite cup
> > into the receiver socket. On some, the one you are banging on will
> > push far enough thru to fall out the inside, but on most I wind up
> > turning it over and driving that end out the side as well. Once I
> > finally got a 6 inch vise, I just pushed them thru instead of using
> > BMFH tool.
> >
> > The purpose of the heat is NOT to melt anything or get it glowing.
> > You want to heat the yoke so that the hole expands enough to release
> > the bearing if it's rusted in. Hey, the u-joint is shot anyway, why
> > worry about banging it up? You are replacing the cross piece as well
> > as the bearing caps. Bang on the u-joint ends, NOT the yoke, unless
> > you enjoy the buz you get from the resuting vibrations once you get it
> > together again.
> >
> > On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 23:20:20 UTC <m> wrote:
> >
> > > The ongoing saga of the driveshaft and the clutch master cylinder...
> > >
> > > Hey, all of you guys are a big help!!! :o)
> > >
> > > A bit of background... I'm from Dallas but moved to S. Padre Island
> about 2
> > > years ago. I've heard recently that the Gulf of Mexico is one of the
> > > saltiest bodies of water in the world. Well, the salty air is doing a
> major
> > > number on this old '86 2wd Jeep Cherokee rust-wise. I've driven it on
> the
> > > beach but not lately... till I can get the rust under control.
> > >
> > > At any rate, today I managed to get the bearing retainer bolts loose
> using a
> > > liberal application of WD-40... pulled the driveshaft out from the
> > > xmission. (Did I screw up doing that?) I'm sure it could always use new
> gear
> > > oil, although the gear oil that drained into the pan looked fine. Nice
> and
> > > clear.
> > >
> > > So... I banged on the (journal cross?) that fits into the xmission (not
> in a
> > > critical area like near the bearing caps) and got the bearing caps to
> "walk
> > > out". So I now have a loose driveshaft with 4 *extremely* seized bearing
> > > caps soaking in WD-40... and a (journal cross?) that is in like new
> > > condition except for rust on the exposed area, and some rear retaining
> > > straps that look ok... (but just now I read that you don't want to
> re-use
> > > those?)
> > >
> > > Banged on the u-joints (on the shaft ends which now have no bearing
> caps)
> > > trying to "walk" them out of the yoke but no joy. Talked to a garage on
> the
> > > mainland and asked him what it would take to get them out and he
> mentioned a
> > > torch and $45. I don't think I want a torch on my driveshaft. The steel
> at
> > > the yoke is damn tough now but a torch might change that.
> > >
> > > What other methods can I try to dislodge these seized bearing caps? Some
> > > freon spray maybe? Wait for WD-40 to do it's magic?
> > >
> > > (==============================)
> > >
> > > So on to the clutch master cylinder. When it was failing, I could add
> brake
> > > fluid to the reservoir, and pump the pedal, and get it to operate the
> slave
> > > so I could drive the Jeep.
> > >
> > > However now, no amount of pumping will operate the slave. Looking at the
> > > chamber, it has plenty of fluid, but after I pump the pedal and then
> look at
> > > the reservoir, I see a lot of
> > > small air bubbles on the surface (like foam, but not a lot of foam) So
> I'm
> > > wondering if the seals are just so bad on the master that they are
> > > introducing air into the reservoir? The slave cylinder at the xmission
> is
> > > external but I couldn't locate a bleed screw unless it's the thing that
> > > feels like a grease zerk on the topside of the slave cylinder.
> > >
> > > In all of this I did discover an excellent product in the form of a
> "rust
> > > converter" made by Napasco. It does a good job of arresting rust. Jeep
> had
> > > hail damage from Dallas, but wasn't in bad shape body-wise til I got
> down
> > > here. Now I'm having to kill a lot of rust spots and will have to deal
> with
> > > some perforations around the top of the windshield. Looks like a visit
> to
> > > the body shop is coming up as well.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > > news:3FFB19E2.CE878FD0@***.net...
> > > > One banana job. Bench bleed a master cylinder first, as in this
> > > > brake cylinder: http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/graphics/0460.jpg
> > > > then bleed as you tighten the fitting and you may get by without
> > > > bleeding the slave. Typical Universal Joint assembly pictured at:
> > > > http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index3.html
> > > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > > >
> > > > m wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Have an 86 Cherokee needing some work and just bought parts.
> > > > > How tough is replacing the clutch master cylinder and u-joints?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>
>
>


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>