How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
11-10-2003, 10:37 AM
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be virtually
flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted, and still has
stock tires the following measurements will indicate if it has sagged, etc.
Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted, and still has
stock tires the following measurements will indicate if it has sagged, etc.
Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
11-10-2003, 10:37 AM
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be virtually
flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted, and still has
stock tires the following measurements will indicate if it has sagged, etc.
Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted, and still has
stock tires the following measurements will indicate if it has sagged, etc.
Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
11-10-2003, 11:29 AM
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
I read through this thread.
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 11:29 AM
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
I read through this thread.
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 11:29 AM
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
I read through this thread.
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Your YJ springs are almost flat. If you run a straight edge from front
to back you might have an inch and a little, no more that I have seen.
Longer shackles can damage a spring. They can allow it to stretch out
longer on a bump. This can take the arch out of them over time. This
does increase articulation, but at the expense of spring wear.
The proper setup with stock springs is to match a longer bump stop to
the length of the shackle lift. This stops the springs from over
bending.
Your steering troubles are serious from your description in the thread.
You are describing 'torque steer' I think it's called. This can come
from a variety of places.
- dead or missing bushings in one spring end
- loose axle U bolt on one or more spring packs
- loose front wheel bearing
- dead rear wheel bearing
- broken frame
- ball joint bad enough to be really dangerous
- tie rod end about to fail
- body shifting on the frame (old tenant's CJ7 was like that, he even
had torque shift on his automatic)
- maybe something simple like the caster being out enough to allow a
combined wear from all the ball joints and tie rod ends to allow one
wheel with the most wear not to track straight.
If you need new springs, I would ask here in it's own post. I'll bet
there are lots of stock YJ springs sitting collecting dust in people's
garages after they have done a lift.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeepers wrote:
>
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 01:12 PM
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
Stock springs in a YJ are very nearly flat.
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 01:12 PM
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
Stock springs in a YJ are very nearly flat.
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 01:12 PM
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
Stock springs in a YJ are very nearly flat.
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
"Jeepers" <moomesa@INVALIDfnbnet.net> wrote in message
news:moomesa-7F4066.13353209112003@corp.newsfeeds.com...
> I suspect my wife's YJ springs are fatigued and causing steering
> troubles.
>
>
> -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
> http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
> -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
11-10-2003, 02:24 PM
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
"Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorgenospam@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:boobhg0mc8@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be
> virtually flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted,
> and still has stock tires the following measurements will indicate if
> it has sagged, etc.
>
> Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
> Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
>
> I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
> 95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
>
These measurements are useless unless you can tell me what size tires were
on that vehicle. <g>
Earle
news:boobhg0mc8@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be
> virtually flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted,
> and still has stock tires the following measurements will indicate if
> it has sagged, etc.
>
> Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
> Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
>
> I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
> 95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
>
These measurements are useless unless you can tell me what size tires were
on that vehicle. <g>
Earle
11-10-2003, 02:24 PM
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How much curve should there be in stock YJ springs?
"Gerald G. McGeorge" <gmcgeorgenospam@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:boobhg0mc8@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be
> virtually flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted,
> and still has stock tires the following measurements will indicate if
> it has sagged, etc.
>
> Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
> Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
>
> I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
> 95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
>
These measurements are useless unless you can tell me what size tires were
on that vehicle. <g>
Earle
news:boobhg0mc8@enews2.newsguy.com...
> Ok, cutting through all the BS, stock YJ springs will appear to be
> virtually flat, with almost no arch. So, if this YJ has not been lifted,
> and still has stock tires the following measurements will indicate if
> it has sagged, etc.
>
> Front: Ground to underside of front bumber at frame: 18 1/8"
> Rear: Ground to rear crossmember at tow hitch bolt hole: 17 1/8".
>
> I took these measurements off of a brand new '95 on a dealer's lot back in
> 95 so I'd always have a reference. Hope this helps.
>
These measurements are useless unless you can tell me what size tires were
on that vehicle. <g>
Earle