I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
that handle from beating the crap out of ya.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Mike Romain" wrote in message ...
> The best place is to hang it on a big assed nail in the back of the barn
> where it belongs.
>
> In my opinion those 'widow makers' have no business anywhere near a
> Jeep. They are a farm tool made for pulling fence posts and raising
> barns for new footings.
>
> If you need a jack, buy a jack. If you need a winch, they make nice
> hand cable winches. My hydraulic floor jack fits behind my passenger
> seat tight and the winch tucks in under the seat.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

 

I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
that handle from beating the crap out of ya.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Mike Romain" wrote in message ...
> The best place is to hang it on a big assed nail in the back of the barn
> where it belongs.
>
> In my opinion those 'widow makers' have no business anywhere near a
> Jeep. They are a farm tool made for pulling fence posts and raising
> barns for new footings.
>
> If you need a jack, buy a jack. If you need a winch, they make nice
> hand cable winches. My hydraulic floor jack fits behind my passenger
> seat tight and the winch tucks in under the seat.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

 

I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
that handle from beating the crap out of ya.

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Mike Romain" wrote in message ...
> The best place is to hang it on a big assed nail in the back of the barn
> where it belongs.
>
> In my opinion those 'widow makers' have no business anywhere near a
> Jeep. They are a farm tool made for pulling fence posts and raising
> barns for new footings.
>
> If you need a jack, buy a jack. If you need a winch, they make nice
> hand cable winches. My hydraulic floor jack fits behind my passenger
> seat tight and the winch tucks in under the seat.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>

 

Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
well. :)

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
JimG wrote:
> I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
> used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
> chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
> has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
> breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
> we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
> that handle from beating the crap out of ya.
>

 

Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
well. :)

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
JimG wrote:
> I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
> used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
> chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
> has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
> breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
> we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
> that handle from beating the crap out of ya.
>

 

Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
well. :)

Jerry
--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/
JimG wrote:
> I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly
> used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a
> chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack
> has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to
> breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what
> we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep
> that handle from beating the crap out of ya.
>

 

Isn't that where it usually happens "on the worst of trails"? Consider a
Jeep with an SOA (no flat place for a bottle) and 35's in a rough position;
a properly placed Hi-Lift works well. We don't carry OE jacks on our
modified rides.

Anyway... to each his own. ;-)

JimG

"Jerry Bransford" wrote in message ...
> Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
> change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
> right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
> than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
> and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
> well. :)
>
> Jerry
> --

 

Isn't that where it usually happens "on the worst of trails"? Consider a
Jeep with an SOA (no flat place for a bottle) and 35's in a rough position;
a properly placed Hi-Lift works well. We don't carry OE jacks on our
modified rides.

Anyway... to each his own. ;-)

JimG

"Jerry Bransford" wrote in message ...
> Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
> change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
> right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
> than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
> and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
> well. :)
>
> Jerry
> --

 

Isn't that where it usually happens "on the worst of trails"? Consider a
Jeep with an SOA (no flat place for a bottle) and 35's in a rough position;
a properly placed Hi-Lift works well. We don't carry OE jacks on our
modified rides.

Anyway... to each his own. ;-)

JimG

"Jerry Bransford" wrote in message ...
> Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to
> change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the
> right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower
> than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires
> and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as
> well. :)
>
> Jerry
> --

 

Yes, if you let go of the handle on the way down, and don't control it like
when you went up, it can beat the crap out of you (Hi-Lift 101, Lesson 1).
Kind of like - if you let go of a running chain saw it can cut the crap out
of you. ;-)

--
JimG
80' CJ-7 258 CID, HEI
4.56 Gears, Lock-Right F&R
35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines
D44 Rear, D30 Front. SOA
Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks
Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

00' TJ Sport 4.0L, 5sp
4.56 Gears, TrueTrac rear
33" BFG AT on 15x8 Eagle Alloys
D35 Rear, D30 Front. 3" Suspension Lift

"Jeff Strickland" wrote in message ...
> I agree with Mike in that there is probably not a more dangerous tool that
> can be owned and carried in a Jeep.
>
> Having said that, it is a very useful tool in many different situations. A
> HiLift is NOT, that's N-O-T, to be used for simple lifting like is needed
to
> fix a flat. A HiLift is very useful as an alternative to a winch, it is
most
> useful to lift your Jeep so you can put large stuff under a tire so you
can
> get going again.
>
> If a HiLift is used to lift a Jeep so one can perform service, always,
> that's A-L-W-A-Y-S put something under the frame and lower the vehicle
onto
> it so the vehicle will not be in danger of falling off of the jack. There
> are two safety issues relative to HiLift Jacks, one is that the vehicle
can
> fall off or the jack will tip over and drop the vehicle, and the other is
> that when attempting to lower the vehicle, the jack can run away and the
> jack handle will flail about violently and seriously injure somebody. I
have
> never seen a jack handle kill anybody, but this is obviously a possibility
> because the nick name for a HiLift is exactly as Mike suggests, widow
maker.
> Your wife can become a widow because the inherently unstable jack will
drop
> the vehicle on somebody, or the handle will beat the life out of you.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" wrote in message...
> > The best place is to hang it on a big assed nail in the back of the barn
> > where it belongs.
> >
> > In my opinion those 'widow makers' have no business anywhere near a
> > Jeep. They are a farm tool made for pulling fence posts and raising
> > barns for new footings.
> >
> > If you need a jack, buy a jack. If you need a winch, they make nice
> > hand cable winches. My hydraulic floor jack fits behind my passenger
> > seat tight and the winch tucks in under the seat.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > somebody wrote:
> >>
> >> buying one of these tommorrow,
> >> any good mounting tips?
> >> are there any mounting brackets one can buy??
> >>
> >> johnp
>
>