HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
01-15-2007, 11:35 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
in article 1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.co m, ULB at
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
01-15-2007, 11:35 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
in article 1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.co m, ULB at
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
01-15-2007, 11:35 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
in article 1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.co m, ULB at
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.
Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf
Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.
I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.
When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.
As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.
I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.
Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.
01-17-2007, 08:34 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"ULB" <ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com...
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
Use new ones. I had my brake lines replaced at a brake shop, I don't trust
myself enough on brakes.
>
> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...
You might be able to re-position the exhaust. Best to wait and see if you
have any issues.
>
> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?
There should have been a specification in the instructions on how long they
should be. Do you have the adjustable uppers as well? When I installed mine
the instructions included a dimension for the upper for proper front caster
& pinion angle. In the rear, adjust them for proper pinion angle, in your
case with the CV shaft, the pinion angle should and driveshaft angle should
be the same in relation to level.
>
> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?
>
No easy way. The jam nuts just lock the threaded coupling, they don't adjust
the length. That has to be done with one end of the arm disconnected. Once
it's done, there shouldn't be any reason to readjust, barring an accident or
spring replacement.
> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?
Center of the axle: measure from the inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip,
divide by 2, mark the center on the axle. Match that with the center of the
body at static height.
>
> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.
>
> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
You can get a magnetic angle finder at Sears for about ten or fifteen bucks.
You will need to have it professionally aligned, see if you can find a shop
that knows 4x4's and have them dial in the various adjustments for you.
01-17-2007, 08:34 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"ULB" <ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com...
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
Use new ones. I had my brake lines replaced at a brake shop, I don't trust
myself enough on brakes.
>
> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...
You might be able to re-position the exhaust. Best to wait and see if you
have any issues.
>
> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?
There should have been a specification in the instructions on how long they
should be. Do you have the adjustable uppers as well? When I installed mine
the instructions included a dimension for the upper for proper front caster
& pinion angle. In the rear, adjust them for proper pinion angle, in your
case with the CV shaft, the pinion angle should and driveshaft angle should
be the same in relation to level.
>
> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?
>
No easy way. The jam nuts just lock the threaded coupling, they don't adjust
the length. That has to be done with one end of the arm disconnected. Once
it's done, there shouldn't be any reason to readjust, barring an accident or
spring replacement.
> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?
Center of the axle: measure from the inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip,
divide by 2, mark the center on the axle. Match that with the center of the
body at static height.
>
> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.
>
> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
You can get a magnetic angle finder at Sears for about ten or fifteen bucks.
You will need to have it professionally aligned, see if you can find a shop
that knows 4x4's and have them dial in the various adjustments for you.
01-17-2007, 08:34 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"ULB" <ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com...
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
Use new ones. I had my brake lines replaced at a brake shop, I don't trust
myself enough on brakes.
>
> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...
You might be able to re-position the exhaust. Best to wait and see if you
have any issues.
>
> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?
There should have been a specification in the instructions on how long they
should be. Do you have the adjustable uppers as well? When I installed mine
the instructions included a dimension for the upper for proper front caster
& pinion angle. In the rear, adjust them for proper pinion angle, in your
case with the CV shaft, the pinion angle should and driveshaft angle should
be the same in relation to level.
>
> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?
>
No easy way. The jam nuts just lock the threaded coupling, they don't adjust
the length. That has to be done with one end of the arm disconnected. Once
it's done, there shouldn't be any reason to readjust, barring an accident or
spring replacement.
> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?
Center of the axle: measure from the inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip,
divide by 2, mark the center on the axle. Match that with the center of the
body at static height.
>
> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.
>
> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
You can get a magnetic angle finder at Sears for about ten or fifteen bucks.
You will need to have it professionally aligned, see if you can find a shop
that knows 4x4's and have them dial in the various adjustments for you.
01-17-2007, 08:34 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"ULB" <ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegrou ps.com...
> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>
> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
Use new ones. I had my brake lines replaced at a brake shop, I don't trust
myself enough on brakes.
>
> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...
You might be able to re-position the exhaust. Best to wait and see if you
have any issues.
>
> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?
There should have been a specification in the instructions on how long they
should be. Do you have the adjustable uppers as well? When I installed mine
the instructions included a dimension for the upper for proper front caster
& pinion angle. In the rear, adjust them for proper pinion angle, in your
case with the CV shaft, the pinion angle should and driveshaft angle should
be the same in relation to level.
>
> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?
>
No easy way. The jam nuts just lock the threaded coupling, they don't adjust
the length. That has to be done with one end of the arm disconnected. Once
it's done, there shouldn't be any reason to readjust, barring an accident or
spring replacement.
> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?
Center of the axle: measure from the inside wheel lip to inside wheel lip,
divide by 2, mark the center on the axle. Match that with the center of the
body at static height.
>
> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.
>
> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
You can get a magnetic angle finder at Sears for about ten or fifteen bucks.
You will need to have it professionally aligned, see if you can find a shop
that knows 4x4's and have them dial in the various adjustments for you.
01-17-2007, 08:36 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:4t-dnYo-t8GVnTbYnZ2dnUVZ_u6rnZ2d@comcast.com...
> I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that
> adjuster jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack
> from the frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also,
> try jacking the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.
The jam nut only locks the coupling in place, the adjustments have to be
made with one end of the arm disconnected.
01-17-2007, 08:36 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:4t-dnYo-t8GVnTbYnZ2dnUVZ_u6rnZ2d@comcast.com...
> I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that
> adjuster jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack
> from the frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also,
> try jacking the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.
The jam nut only locks the coupling in place, the adjustments have to be
made with one end of the arm disconnected.
01-17-2007, 08:36 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP with Rubicon Express 4.5 Short Arm kit
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:4t-dnYo-t8GVnTbYnZ2dnUVZ_u6rnZ2d@comcast.com...
> I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that
> adjuster jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack
> from the frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also,
> try jacking the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.
The jam nut only locks the coupling in place, the adjustments have to be
made with one end of the arm disconnected.