ULB

Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
have a few questions and problems.

The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
washers or discard them?

I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
clearance...

I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
stock length so far. Any ideas?

What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
a little?

Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
under the wheel well?

Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
there of.

Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
lower mount.

Thanks all! Have a great night!

ULB. My email address on here is correct in case you don't want to
post here on the forum.

Carl

Hello,

> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
The new brake lines should come with new crush washers. Use the new ones. If
they didn't come with new ones, you should be able to get a set from any
auto parts store.


> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...

Don't know, but I like to avoid denting my exhaust whenever possible. Can
you take a picture and show us?

> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?

I would adjust them to give you the proper pinion angle in the rear and
castor up front.

> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?

I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that adjuster
jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack from the
frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also, try jacking
the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.


> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?

Leave the lower track bar mount unbolted. Once you have everything else all
dialed in. Then bounce the jeep as hard as you can a few times. This will
center the axle under the Jeep assuming it's on reasonably level ground.
Then adjust the track bar to fit in the mount.

> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.

Sounds like you are making out reasonably well. We're here to help if you
need more.

> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
I just eyeballed mine, but I was welding on leaf spring perches. Install
your SYE and CV shaft kit, then adjust the control arms to give the lower U
joint -1 degree angle (it should point juuuuust barely lower than straight
on). Usually a keen eye can eyeball it.

> ULB. My email address on here is correct in case you don't want to
> post here on the forum.
Bad idea. Try munging your address. Add an obvious word like REMOVE to at
least make the spammers work a little bit for it. Check mine for an example.

Hope this helps.

Carl

Carl

Hello,

> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
The new brake lines should come with new crush washers. Use the new ones. If
they didn't come with new ones, you should be able to get a set from any
auto parts store.


> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...

Don't know, but I like to avoid denting my exhaust whenever possible. Can
you take a picture and show us?

> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?

I would adjust them to give you the proper pinion angle in the rear and
castor up front.

> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?

I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that adjuster
jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack from the
frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also, try jacking
the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.


> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?

Leave the lower track bar mount unbolted. Once you have everything else all
dialed in. Then bounce the jeep as hard as you can a few times. This will
center the axle under the Jeep assuming it's on reasonably level ground.
Then adjust the track bar to fit in the mount.

> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.

Sounds like you are making out reasonably well. We're here to help if you
need more.

> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
I just eyeballed mine, but I was welding on leaf spring perches. Install
your SYE and CV shaft kit, then adjust the control arms to give the lower U
joint -1 degree angle (it should point juuuuust barely lower than straight
on). Usually a keen eye can eyeball it.

> ULB. My email address on here is correct in case you don't want to
> post here on the forum.
Bad idea. Try munging your address. Add an obvious word like REMOVE to at
least make the spammers work a little bit for it. Check mine for an example.

Hope this helps.

Carl

Carl

Hello,

> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
The new brake lines should come with new crush washers. Use the new ones. If
they didn't come with new ones, you should be able to get a set from any
auto parts store.


> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...

Don't know, but I like to avoid denting my exhaust whenever possible. Can
you take a picture and show us?

> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?

I would adjust them to give you the proper pinion angle in the rear and
castor up front.

> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?

I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that adjuster
jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack from the
frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also, try jacking
the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.


> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?

Leave the lower track bar mount unbolted. Once you have everything else all
dialed in. Then bounce the jeep as hard as you can a few times. This will
center the axle under the Jeep assuming it's on reasonably level ground.
Then adjust the track bar to fit in the mount.

> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.

Sounds like you are making out reasonably well. We're here to help if you
need more.

> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
I just eyeballed mine, but I was welding on leaf spring perches. Install
your SYE and CV shaft kit, then adjust the control arms to give the lower U
joint -1 degree angle (it should point juuuuust barely lower than straight
on). Usually a keen eye can eyeball it.

> ULB. My email address on here is correct in case you don't want to
> post here on the forum.
Bad idea. Try munging your address. Add an obvious word like REMOVE to at
least make the spammers work a little bit for it. Check mine for an example.

Hope this helps.

Carl

Carl

Hello,

> The extended brake lines that come with the kit. I noticed while
> taking off the front brake lines there are small washers that are
> grooved on the OLD brakes lower lines connector. Am I to reuse these
> washers or discard them?
The new brake lines should come with new crush washers. Use the new ones. If
they didn't come with new ones, you should be able to get a set from any
auto parts store.


> I have the rubicon adjustable REAR track bar and CV driveshaft. It
> appears the fit is going to be quite tight, has anyone run into exhaust
> pipe clearance issues? I was thinking maybe heat up the pipe, and then
> bang it with a pipe and hammer to make a nice dent for more
> clearance...

Don't know, but I like to avoid denting my exhaust whenever possible. Can
you take a picture and show us?

> I have the adjustable lower control arms front and rear. I am having
> one heck of a time fuguring out how long to make them. I am running at
> stock length so far. Any ideas?

I would adjust them to give you the proper pinion angle in the rear and
castor up front.

> What is the best way to adjust the control arms once the they are
> attached to the axle and frame? For example, I have all control arms
> loosely bolted up but am having a nasty time trying to fit them on once
> I make a minor adjustment. Any easy way to move the axle around front
> to rear, etc, to be able to get the bolts in correctly? Pinion seems
> easy with a bottle jack, what about if I want to force the pinion down
> a little?

I thought you could adjust them while they were bolted in with that adjuster
jam nut. Flip the bottle jack to push the pinion down and jack from the
frame down to push it down if you can't pull it by hand. Also, try jacking
the axle up and down to help align the bolt holes.


> Also, is there a point on the frame which is best to measure you have
> everything centered; i.e., Axle left to right, axle center exactly
> under the wheel well?

Leave the lower track bar mount unbolted. Once you have everything else all
dialed in. Then bounce the jeep as hard as you can a few times. This will
center the axle under the Jeep assuming it's on reasonably level ground.
Then adjust the track bar to fit in the mount.

> Any help would be awesome as I feel I have almost bitten off more than
> I can chew. Sure have learned alot about the suspension. :) Or lack
> there of.

Sounds like you are making out reasonably well. We're here to help if you
need more.

> Once last thing, how in the devil do you measure the pinion angle, is
> this just eyeballed and if there are driveline vibes then adjust? I
> would hate to have the front drive shaft bang up on the transmission
> lower mount.
I just eyeballed mine, but I was welding on leaf spring perches. Install
your SYE and CV shaft kit, then adjust the control arms to give the lower U
joint -1 degree angle (it should point juuuuust barely lower than straight
on). Usually a keen eye can eyeball it.

> ULB. My email address on here is correct in case you don't want to
> post here on the forum.
Bad idea. Try munging your address. Add an obvious word like REMOVE to at
least make the spammers work a little bit for it. Check mine for an example.

Hope this helps.

Carl

ULB

I forgot to ask one last question. With the electrical and emergency
brakes lines on the rear, once disconnected from the original upper
control arm that flap around with lots of potential damage from the
brackets attached to them. What to do about the brackets that won't be
used? Any easy way to remove them? How to bunch the wires without
much fuss? Perhaps fabricate a bracket that wraps the upper left
control arms to keep things in place? Thanks again!

ULB

I forgot to ask one last question. With the electrical and emergency
brakes lines on the rear, once disconnected from the original upper
control arm that flap around with lots of potential damage from the
brackets attached to them. What to do about the brackets that won't be
used? Any easy way to remove them? How to bunch the wires without
much fuss? Perhaps fabricate a bracket that wraps the upper left
control arms to keep things in place? Thanks again!

ULB

I forgot to ask one last question. With the electrical and emergency
brakes lines on the rear, once disconnected from the original upper
control arm that flap around with lots of potential damage from the
brackets attached to them. What to do about the brackets that won't be
used? Any easy way to remove them? How to bunch the wires without
much fuss? Perhaps fabricate a bracket that wraps the upper left
control arms to keep things in place? Thanks again!

ULB

I forgot to ask one last question. With the electrical and emergency
brakes lines on the rear, once disconnected from the original upper
control arm that flap around with lots of potential damage from the
brackets attached to them. What to do about the brackets that won't be
used? Any easy way to remove them? How to bunch the wires without
much fuss? Perhaps fabricate a bracket that wraps the upper left
control arms to keep things in place? Thanks again!

Paul Nelson

in article 1168833491.150280.65160@11g2000cwr.googlegroups.co m, ULB at
ultralightbackpacker@yahoo.com wrote on 1/14/07 9:58 PM:

> Spent the last 2 nights installing the RE7000 kit on my Rubicon 05. I
> have a few questions and problems.
>

I installed one back in August. I blogged the experience here:
http://www.kerygma.org/nelson
You'll want to click on "Go to archive" to see all the posts.

Another good resource from Red Rock:
http://www.redrock4x4.com/tech/rr_install_notes.pdf

Go to an Auto parts store, and get new brake washers. My kit did not come
with them - a dissapointment. You could go to the dealer, but my dealer had
to order them. I had a little trouble the day I went looking for them -
many stores did not have them in stock. I got a package of varying sizes.
Match the thickness (most important) and diameter with the originals. Don't
reuse the originals because they might develop a leak. The washers are a
soft metal like copper or aluminum, and will get squeezed into any scratches
or variations in thickness of the brake line end, and the master cylinder.

I think I made notes on the lengths I used for the control arms. On both
front and rear, I decided on 5/8 of an inch longer for the lowers, and 3/4
(the recommended length) for the uppers. Make sure each pair of control
arms is exactly the same length by putting one bolt through both arms and
then check by looking through the other ends. I had determined the threads
per inch for future reference, but I don't have those numbers with me. This
will give you an idea of how much a half turn will lengthen or shorten the
arm.

When you are messing around trying to get control arms attached to the axle,
two small floor jacks (the smallest kind) work pretty well since you can
push on them. Put one under the axle tube on the side you are working on,
and the other under the pinion.

As for the brackets attached to the rear brake lines, I thought about
cutting them also, but I ended up just using cable ties. I'm checking
regularly for any ill effects.

I didn't have any exhaust problems. Not sure what is going on there.
Remember that it is hard to judge clearances until the Jeep is sitting on
the ground.

Go get a cheap plastic protractor. Make a small notch that cuts down to
where the center (where the degree lines extend from) is. Get a string and
tie a nut onto one end. Hold the other end of the string with the
protractor so the string hangs from your cut. One other trick (from a guy
at Tom Woods) on a Dana 44 - there are machined flanges with what looks like
dowel holes in them on the diff case. These surfaces are 90 degrees from
the pinion shaft.