Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
JD Adams wrote:
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> >I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> >power.
>
> I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
> directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
> beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
> wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
> Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
> specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
> wire your own outlet.
>
> Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
> relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
> reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
> existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
> later on if you put in the effort.
>
> -JD
Does the existing harness have a clean power line for their box or is a
new line required also?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
It uses a custom 'pass-through' plug that hooks into an existing
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
It uses a custom 'pass-through' plug that hooks into an existing
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
It uses a custom 'pass-through' plug that hooks into an existing
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
harness up underneath the left-rear fenderwell. Nice design. No
splicing or wire-cutting required. The relays and pass-through
connector are all one single waterproof unit that all nylon-tie
together and tuck neatly back up underneath the fenderwell.
Three wires route along the frame rail to the engine compartment:
ground, 12V+ and trailer brake actuation, which also has its own relay.
The fused 12v+ lead is connected directly to the fuse box + terminal,
and supplies power for all trailer lighting and brakes. A standard RV
connector is used for the trailer hookup. DC's OEM receiver has an
insulted RV connector box welded right in, so it was a perfect fit.
It sounds more complicated that it actually was and I was surprised at
how easy it was to install. I loathe wire-tapping/splicing - it always
manages to corrode and cause problems. For about $35 bucks, this is a
great way to custom-wire a trailer hitch on a TJ. I bought mine from:
http://jeep.autowebaccessories.com/s...cat204_227.php
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:04:46 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:04:46 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
On Wed, 05 Apr 2006 10:04:46 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
wrote:
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
>perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
>lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
>a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
>This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
>failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
>vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
>
>Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
>fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
>fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
>shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
>source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
>short.
>
>Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
>battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
On the basis of better safe than sorry, I'll run a cable direct from
the battery. Thanks.
Ewan Scott
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