Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
04-05-2006, 06:58 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
<billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
>that is the same for the KJs.
>
>Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>
>
Thanks for the responses.
I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
which and worked it backwards.
So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
Brake Lamps - White and Orange
Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
Earth cable Black and White
The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
(pink and black), which is always live.
Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
to the lighting block. ..
Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
unscrew this it will chew up.
Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
well (fender well).
If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
Hope that can help someone somewhere.
Ewan Scott
<billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
>that is the same for the KJs.
>
>Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>
>
Thanks for the responses.
I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
which and worked it backwards.
So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
Brake Lamps - White and Orange
Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
Earth cable Black and White
The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
(pink and black), which is always live.
Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
to the lighting block. ..
Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
unscrew this it will chew up.
Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
well (fender well).
If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
Hope that can help someone somewhere.
Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 06:58 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
<billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
>that is the same for the KJs.
>
>Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>
>
Thanks for the responses.
I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
which and worked it backwards.
So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
Brake Lamps - White and Orange
Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
Earth cable Black and White
The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
(pink and black), which is always live.
Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
to the lighting block. ..
Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
unscrew this it will chew up.
Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
well (fender well).
If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
Hope that can help someone somewhere.
Ewan Scott
<billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
>that is the same for the KJs.
>
>Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>
>
Thanks for the responses.
I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
which and worked it backwards.
So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
Brake Lamps - White and Orange
Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
Earth cable Black and White
The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
(pink and black), which is always live.
Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
to the lighting block. ..
Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
unscrew this it will chew up.
Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
well (fender well).
If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
Hope that can help someone somewhere.
Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 10:04 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 10:04 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 10:04 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
power.
Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
short.
Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Ewan Scott wrote:
>
> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>
> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't know
> >that is the same for the KJs.
> >
> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
> >
> >
> Thanks for the responses.
>
> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
> which and worked it backwards.
>
> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>
> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
> Earth cable Black and White
>
> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>
> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
> (pink and black), which is always live.
>
> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
> to the lighting block. ..
>
> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
> unscrew this it will chew up.
>
> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
> well (fender well).
>
> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>
> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>
> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
That does raise an interesting point. In my WJ the "power outlet" is hot
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
That does raise an interesting point. In my WJ the "power outlet" is hot
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 12:45 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
That does raise an interesting point. In my WJ the "power outlet" is hot
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
full time where my 'cigar lighter' is only on with the key.
As you know I did manage to run my battery dead with that 12v electric
cooler running through the power outlet. If that went through the computer
I would hope that they would have included instructions to shut off the
power before the battery went dead.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4433CE7E.30346EA9@sympatico.ca...
>I do not know this for sure, but have been informed (and it makes
> perfect sense) that the rear or any other 'power' outlets, vs cigar
> lighter outlets runs through the computer for voltage regulation to have
> a stable 12V supply for things like electronics.
>
> This means if you have any issues with the trailer lights shorting or
> failing, which can/does happen, you are very likely to cook the main
> vehicle computer. This would be a 'very' expensive error.....
>
> I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
> power.
>
> Just FYI, 'most' portable electronics are fused with a one or two amp
> fast blow glass tube type fuse. The plastic automotive fuses are not
> fast enough to prevent computer chip failures from power spikes or
> shorts so even a fused lead to the trailer lights from the regulated
> source wouldn't likely stop main computer damage in the event of a
> short.
>
> Or I could be totally mistaken and the feed is straight 14V+
> battery/alternator power, but I sure don't think so....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
> Ewan Scott wrote:
>>
>> On Tue, 4 Apr 2006 18:08:04 -0400, "billy ray"
>> <billy_ray@fuseSPAM.net> wrote:
>>
>> >I can send you the information from an WJ (or an older XJ) but I don't
>> >know
>> >that is the same for the KJs.
>> >
>> >Who has a Liberty manual and can check the wiring diagrams?
>> >
>> >
>> Thanks for the responses.
>>
>> I dismantled a tail light assembly and worked out which terminal was
>> which and worked it backwards.
>>
>> So for anyone else doing thie job with an aftermarket bypass unit.
>>
>> Left Side Rear Indicator - Green and Red Cable
>> Right Side Rear indicator - Brown and Red Cable
>> Fog lamps - Brown and White Cable
>> Righ tside Tail Lamp - Green and Yellow
>> Left side Tail Lamp - Black and Yellow
>> Brake Lamps - White and Orange
>> Reverse Lamps - Black and Green
>> Earth cable Black and White
>>
>> The live feed for the bypass unit is supposed to be run from the
>> battery live, with a 15 amp in-line fuse.
>>
>> However, it can be tapped into the live feed to the rear power outlet
>> (pink and black), which is always live.
>>
>> Somewhere someone asked about removing the rear right panel for access
>> to the lighting block. ..
>>
>> Unclip the rear deck trim and the rear roof trim.
>> There is a single plastic philips head screw with a luggage retaining
>> ring, (not that it would retain very much at all), when you try and
>> unscrew this it will chew up.
>>
>> Lever out the side panel along the side of the rear frame and open it
>> out carefully to access the right wing block in the rear wheel arch
>> well (fender well).
>>
>> If you lift the rear carpet there is a rubber seal about 1.5 inches in
>> diameter. If you puncture this you can run your trailer lighting cable
>> down through this without breaking any seals or drilling clean metal.
>>
>> Hope that can help someone somewhere.
>>
>> Ewan Scott
04-05-2006, 12:49 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD
04-05-2006, 12:49 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Help- Identifying wiring for lights.
>I would highly recommend a dedicated fused power line for the trailer
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD
>power.
I recommend more than that; DC's OEM kit specs relays that draw
directly from the battery post, AND seperate fusing for every circuit
beyond the rear bumper. It also plugs directly into an existing rear
wiring harness using waterproof connections. Very nicely designed.
Unfortunately, unless you use a DC OEM receiver with the
specially-designed waterproof RV outlet box on the side, you'll have to
wire your own outlet.
Consensus: use seperately-fused circuits for trailer power, and/or
relays for all circuits if possible for the best protection and
reliability. Wire everything directly from the battery, not from
existing circuits. It's a PIA, but you'll never have a problem with it
later on if you put in the effort.
-JD