HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
03-05-2005, 10:27 PM
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
Interesting there should be no reading at all between alternator
battery connection and the battery positive terminal, they are the same.
The test is hooking the volt meter from alternator battery connection to
ground.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> before starting checked batt, 12V
> unhooked red cable on back of altinator,
> placed meter on post on back side of altinator,
> other line on pos of batt, 11.8V,
> started jeep,
> numbers moved down to 4.0 then jumped moving up to 20.0 vots, as we
> brought idle up to 2500rpm,
> back down to idle, meter read 11.5V
> ,
> johnp
battery connection and the battery positive terminal, they are the same.
The test is hooking the volt meter from alternator battery connection to
ground.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> before starting checked batt, 12V
> unhooked red cable on back of altinator,
> placed meter on post on back side of altinator,
> other line on pos of batt, 11.8V,
> started jeep,
> numbers moved down to 4.0 then jumped moving up to 20.0 vots, as we
> brought idle up to 2500rpm,
> back down to idle, meter read 11.5V
> ,
> johnp
03-05-2005, 11:27 PM
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
It should never be less than the battery's voltage. Period. It
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
03-05-2005, 11:27 PM
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
It should never be less than the battery's voltage. Period. It
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
03-05-2005, 11:27 PM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
It should never be less than the battery's voltage. Period. It
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
means it's not hooked to the battery, probably like Mike and some others
suggested the fuseable link is open.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> when i hook up to the back post on the alternator, and then to ground,
> the numbers are all over the chart,
> up and down all the way up to 35, and down to 4
>
> gawd,
> im going crazy,
>
> johnp
03-06-2005, 12:42 AM
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
On Sat, 5 Mar 2005 22:10:04 UTC "Dirty Ditch Dawg"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea
03-06-2005, 12:42 AM
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
On Sat, 5 Mar 2005 22:10:04 UTC "Dirty Ditch Dawg"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea
03-06-2005, 12:42 AM
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: HELP,,electrical nightmare 90YJ 2.5
On Sat, 5 Mar 2005 22:10:04 UTC "Dirty Ditch Dawg"
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea
<scopenutt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Will
> but will that couse the "nut" on the relay to give a Beep on a test to
> ground?
> isnt that nut isolated from ground?
> im about to jump around my links, to try it,
> as im getting a beep from all my wires,
> so if the fuse-link was toast it shouldent beep,,right,,,i think,,,
The only thing you can measure to ground is voltage - and my voltmeter
better not beep at me there - it would drive me nuts. Ohm meter is a
different story - there the beep helps but that function is useless
with voltage on. Measure voltage from ground to each point or between
the two end of the connection.
While a fuse wire that blows due to over current will usually go in
the middle of the link and creat a clean, well defined break, one that
breaks at a crimp often gets confusing. What happens is that some of
the wires break due to mechanical stress (or get cut by the crimper)
and the smaller number of strands that finally blow don't melt the
whole wire - the 'whiskers' will make intermittent contact and the
heat will actually cause them to move rather than melt. If you have
continuity in the wire, the voltage at the battery is identical to the
voltage at the alternator output stud (less a few millivolts if the
alternator is charging hard). If the alternator output voltage is
above the battery voltage you have a connection problem - period. If
the alternator is working, it should increase the voltage when you
start the engine. If it doesn't, you either have a bad ouput lead
(fuse links, etc.), a bum alternator OR the rotor current is not
getting there. The small plug (in anything but the Delco single wire
systems) supplies an enabling current. If that is absent, the
alternator will put out some voltage when running but won't have
enough excitation current to provide charging power. I don't recall a
fuse in the control leads but check the see that all the leads to the
alternator are good.
--
Will Honea