Mike Romain

Electronic shops sell contact cleaner. It is really handy for all the
sensor plugs on the old beasts. WD40 is a water displacement fluid and
solvent and can be used effectively as a contact cleaner. The real
stuff works or lasts better though...

Then a tube of dielectric grease really helps on the rubber seal skirts
of the plugs. Even the stuff they call 'spark plug boot protector'
works well.

Our old 88 needs them done every couple years, just had to do the TPS
yesterday due to high starting rpms again. We do take it out to 'play'
and have buried it in mud deep enough last year to have the mud pour in
through the door speakers, so I don't mind the maintenance. :-)

Mike


NT wrote:
>
> Thanks for the tips guys:
>
> What are you cleaning with? Some sort of electrical contact cleaner? I
> can't see how I'd get inside the connector to do any sort of a proper
> cleaning job (other than a spray cleaner).
>
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4332AA24.4A92237C@sympatico.ca...
> > Will Honea wrote:
> >>
> >> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> > Hi Guys:
> >> >
> >> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On
> >> > my
> >> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up
> >> > and
> >> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I
> >> > guess all
> >> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
> >>
> >> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
> >> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
> >> unpluging it.
> >>
> >> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
> >> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
> >> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea
> >
> > I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
> > signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
> > visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
> > cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
> > too.
> >
> > I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
> > really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
> > she is starting and idling great again.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may see on this page the Cherokee uses four different
Crankshaft Position Sensors:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...tdcsensor.html
This may be helpful for your frog stuff:
http://www.----------.com/temp/89JeepFI.pdf
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

NT wrote:
>
> Thanks guys:
>
> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> original faulty variety)?

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may see on this page the Cherokee uses four different
Crankshaft Position Sensors:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...tdcsensor.html
This may be helpful for your frog stuff:
http://www.----------.com/temp/89JeepFI.pdf
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

NT wrote:
>
> Thanks guys:
>
> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> original faulty variety)?

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

You may see on this page the Cherokee uses four different
Crankshaft Position Sensors:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...tdcsensor.html
This may be helpful for your frog stuff:
http://www.----------.com/temp/89JeepFI.pdf
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

NT wrote:
>
> Thanks guys:
>
> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> original faulty variety)?

NT

Hi Mike:

Thanks for your note.

I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
>I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> the sucker.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> NT wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys:
>>
>> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
>> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
>> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
>> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
>> original faulty variety)?
>>
>> --
>>
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
>> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:--------------------
>> >
>> > Billy Ray wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
>> >> wanted
>> >> to
>> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>> >>
>> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
>> >> 7/16"
>> >> socket on a long extension.
>> >>
>> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> .
>> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

NT

Hi Mike:

Thanks for your note.

I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
>I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> the sucker.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> NT wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys:
>>
>> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
>> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
>> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
>> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
>> original faulty variety)?
>>
>> --
>>
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
>> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:--------------------
>> >
>> > Billy Ray wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
>> >> wanted
>> >> to
>> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>> >>
>> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
>> >> 7/16"
>> >> socket on a long extension.
>> >>
>> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> .
>> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

NT

Hi Mike:

Thanks for your note.

I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
>I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> the sucker.....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> NT wrote:
>>
>> Thanks guys:
>>
>> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
>> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
>> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
>> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
>> original faulty variety)?
>>
>> --
>>
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
>> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
>> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> > mailto:--------------------
>> >
>> > Billy Ray wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
>> >> wanted
>> >> to
>> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>> >>
>> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
>> >> 7/16"
>> >> socket on a long extension.
>> >>
>> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> .
>> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

Mike Romain

Ours is exactly like that too. The starter sounds fast but actually
turns the engine really slow and one revolution seems like a long time.
I have added ground paths and keep all the connections clean and
still... It 'always' fires up though.

This subject has been gone over a lot and unless it is a radical change
noticed, and then something is broke, it seems to be normal for that
computer system. After 91 they changed to a different computer.

Try cleaning the plug and sockets on the throttle body, they do make a
difference in my starting when dirty. Same for a nice new distributor
cap and rotor, they make a large difference when they get dirty.

Mike

NT wrote:
>
> Hi Mike:
>
> Thanks for your note.
>
> I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
> about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).
>
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
> >I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> > still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> > the sucker.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > NT wrote:
> >>
> >> Thanks guys:
> >>
> >> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> >> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> >> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> >> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> >> original faulty variety)?
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> >> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:--------------------
> >> >
> >> > Billy Ray wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
> >> >> wanted
> >> >> to
> >> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
> >> >>
> >> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
> >> >> 7/16"
> >> >> socket on a long extension.
> >> >>
> >> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> .
> >> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> >> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> >> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

Mike Romain

Ours is exactly like that too. The starter sounds fast but actually
turns the engine really slow and one revolution seems like a long time.
I have added ground paths and keep all the connections clean and
still... It 'always' fires up though.

This subject has been gone over a lot and unless it is a radical change
noticed, and then something is broke, it seems to be normal for that
computer system. After 91 they changed to a different computer.

Try cleaning the plug and sockets on the throttle body, they do make a
difference in my starting when dirty. Same for a nice new distributor
cap and rotor, they make a large difference when they get dirty.

Mike

NT wrote:
>
> Hi Mike:
>
> Thanks for your note.
>
> I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
> about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).
>
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
> >I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> > still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> > the sucker.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > NT wrote:
> >>
> >> Thanks guys:
> >>
> >> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> >> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> >> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> >> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> >> original faulty variety)?
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> >> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:--------------------
> >> >
> >> > Billy Ray wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
> >> >> wanted
> >> >> to
> >> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
> >> >>
> >> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
> >> >> 7/16"
> >> >> socket on a long extension.
> >> >>
> >> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> .
> >> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> >> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> >> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

Mike Romain

Ours is exactly like that too. The starter sounds fast but actually
turns the engine really slow and one revolution seems like a long time.
I have added ground paths and keep all the connections clean and
still... It 'always' fires up though.

This subject has been gone over a lot and unless it is a radical change
noticed, and then something is broke, it seems to be normal for that
computer system. After 91 they changed to a different computer.

Try cleaning the plug and sockets on the throttle body, they do make a
difference in my starting when dirty. Same for a nice new distributor
cap and rotor, they make a large difference when they get dirty.

Mike

NT wrote:
>
> Hi Mike:
>
> Thanks for your note.
>
> I think that I'm experiencing more than one revolution. I usually takes
> about 5 -10 seconds of cranking to start (but it always does).
>
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:433307C3.5987CE3C@sympatico.ca...
> >I put the new one in. Made absolutely no difference in starting, it
> > still has to crank one revolution until the spot in the flywheel passes
> > the sucker.....
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > NT wrote:
> >>
> >> Thanks guys:
> >>
> >> I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
> >> different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
> >> more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
> >> shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
> >> original faulty variety)?
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >> news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> >> > http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> >> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> >> > mailto:--------------------
> >> >
> >> > Billy Ray wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he
> >> >> wanted
> >> >> to
> >> >> post the pix to his website's tech section.
> >> >>
> >> >> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a
> >> >> 7/16"
> >> >> socket on a long extension.
> >> >>
> >> >> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> .
> >> >> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
> >> >> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
> >> >> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.