Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Guys:
> >
> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On my
> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up and
> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I guess all
> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>
> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
> unpluging it.
>
> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
too.

I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
she is starting and idling great again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Guys:
> >
> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On my
> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up and
> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I guess all
> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>
> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
> unpluging it.
>
> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
too.

I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
she is starting and idling great again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Will Honea wrote:
>
> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Guys:
> >
> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On my
> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up and
> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I guess all
> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>
> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
> unpluging it.
>
> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>
> --
> Will Honea

I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
too.

I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
she is starting and idling great again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Thanks guys:

I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
original faulty variety)?

--

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he wanted
>> to
>> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>>
>> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a 7/16"
>> socket on a long extension.
>>
>> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>>
>> --
>> .
>> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

 

Thanks guys:

I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
original faulty variety)?

--

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he wanted
>> to
>> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>>
>> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a 7/16"
>> socket on a long extension.
>>
>> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>>
>> --
>> .
>> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

 

Thanks guys:

I was able to take a look at the pix. My sensor definitely looks
different - that is, the part that you can see from under the hood - it's
more 'boxy - trapazoid' shaped - if that makes any sense. Not sure the
shape is any indication of the vintage (ie: whether it's one of the older
original faulty variety)?

--

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:433216A4.EF137E61@***.net...
> http://www.----------.com/temp/cps.htm
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>>
>> I sent some pix of the driver's side CPS & Connector to Bill if he wanted
>> to
>> post the pix to his website's tech section.
>>
>> You can remove it from underneath using your 1/4" socket set with a 7/16"
>> socket on a long extension.
>>
>> The connector mount takes, I seem to recall, a 10 mm wrench
>>
>> --
>> .
>> Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>> 2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>> Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.

 

Thanks for the tips guys:

What are you cleaning with? Some sort of electrical contact cleaner? I
can't see how I'd get inside the connector to do any sort of a proper
cleaning job (other than a spray cleaner).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4332AA24.4A92237C@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi Guys:
>> >
>> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On
>> > my
>> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up
>> > and
>> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I
>> > guess all
>> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>>
>> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
>> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
>> unpluging it.
>>
>> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
>> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
>> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>
> I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
> signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
> visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
> cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
> too.
>
> I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
> really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
> she is starting and idling great again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Thanks for the tips guys:

What are you cleaning with? Some sort of electrical contact cleaner? I
can't see how I'd get inside the connector to do any sort of a proper
cleaning job (other than a spray cleaner).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4332AA24.4A92237C@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi Guys:
>> >
>> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On
>> > my
>> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up
>> > and
>> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I
>> > guess all
>> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>>
>> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
>> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
>> unpluging it.
>>
>> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
>> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
>> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>
> I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
> signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
> visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
> cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
> too.
>
> I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
> really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
> she is starting and idling great again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Thanks for the tips guys:

What are you cleaning with? Some sort of electrical contact cleaner? I
can't see how I'd get inside the connector to do any sort of a proper
cleaning job (other than a spray cleaner).

--

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4332AA24.4A92237C@sympatico.ca...
> Will Honea wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Hi Guys:
>> >
>> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think). On
>> > my
>> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up
>> > and
>> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I
>> > guess all
>> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>>
>> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
>> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
>> unpluging it.
>>
>> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
>> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
>> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>
> I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
> signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
> visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
> cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
> too.
>
> I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
> really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
> she is starting and idling great again.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Spray contact cleaner and dielectric grease
--
..
Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3ECYe.878$hW.352@tor-nn1...
> Thanks for the tips guys:
>
> What are you cleaning with? Some sort of electrical contact cleaner? I
> can't see how I'd get inside the connector to do any sort of a proper
> cleaning job (other than a spray cleaner).
>
> --
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4332AA24.4A92237C@sympatico.ca...
>> Will Honea wrote:
>>>
>>> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:29:10 UTC "NT" <noThanks@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> > Hi Guys:
>>> >
>>> > Thanks for the tips. I was able to locate the connector (I think).
>>> > On my
>>> > 89, the connector is one of the 'water tight' variety. I opened it up
>>> > and
>>> > took a look - the inside looked brand new - clean as a whistle - I
>>> > guess all
>>> > that sealing really does work - on this connector anyway.
>>>
>>> Clean it anyway - the corrosion you get there is too thin to really
>>> see anyway. You probably cleaned it enough just with the friction of
>>> unpluging it.
>>>
>>> I use the waterproof dielctric grease on that rubber seal on the plug
>>> - seems to make the cleaning last longer. Works especially well on
>>> the TPS and IAC connectors on the throttle body.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea
>>
>> I will second that. The connection is only for low power computer
>> signals and the amount of corrosion that causes them to crap out isn't
>> visible with the naked eye. Think how many times a hard drive buss
>> cable fails while still looking good... Contact cleaner works on them
>> too.
>>
>> I just had to do my TPS connection yesterday because it was revving
>> really high on start up. It wasn't visibly dirty, but a fast clean and
>> she is starting and idling great again.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>