Seahag

Maybe I didn't leave the key on long enough. I'll give it
another shot tomorrow. Thanks.

Seahag

<Matt Osborn> wrote in message
news:b4o392hjg178tein5o53u1eife93353b0q@4ax.com...
> When the fuel pump check valve goes south, the fuel drains
> from the
> fuel line and the Jeep won't start until the line is
> refilled. It
> takes the fuel pump some time to refill the line,
> depending on how
> completely the fuel line has emptied.
>
> The fuel pump is turned on for a couple of seconds (I'm
> not sure how
> long it runs) when the ignition is turned on. On my Jeep,
> the problem
> became progressively worse. At first, I had to 'run the
> pump' only
> once before it would start. After a month or so, I had to
> 'run the
> pump' two or three times before starting the Jeep.
>
> If you see no improvement in starting by 'running the
> pump', then it
> may not be the fuel pump check valve.
>
>
> On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 12:12:32 -0400, "Seahag"
> <Seahag@toadymail.net>
> wrote:
>
>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to
>>start
>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>
>>Seahag
>>
>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>> Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>> started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>> starts normally.
>>>
>>> Seahag
>>>
>>> <Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>> Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for
>>>> a
>>>> few seconds.
>>>> Then turn the key off and back on to engage the
>>>> starter.
>>>> If it fires
>>>> right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>> likely culprit.
>>>>
>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>lately.
>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>last
>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>his
>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> -- msosborn at msosborn dot com

Lon

Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.




Mike Romain proclaimed:
> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster.
> These are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
> cleaning them is dramatic.
>
> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
> 650 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Seahag wrote:
>
>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>
>>Seahag
>>
>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>
>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>starts normally.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>few seconds.
>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>If it fires
>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>
>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>lately.
>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>last
>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>his
>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>
>>>

Lon

Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.




Mike Romain proclaimed:
> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster.
> These are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
> cleaning them is dramatic.
>
> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
> 650 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Seahag wrote:
>
>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>
>>Seahag
>>
>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>
>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>starts normally.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>few seconds.
>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>If it fires
>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>
>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>lately.
>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>last
>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>his
>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>
>>>

Lon

Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.




Mike Romain proclaimed:
> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster.
> These are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
> cleaning them is dramatic.
>
> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
> 650 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Seahag wrote:
>
>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>
>>Seahag
>>
>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>
>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>starts normally.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>few seconds.
>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>If it fires
>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>
>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>lately.
>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>last
>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>his
>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>
>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>
>>>

billy ray

You don't have to remove the air box but you will have to pull off the pipe
that goes from the throttle body to the air box.

You can do a pretty good cleaning with removing the throttle body from the
intake manifold with the use of a good cleaner and an old tooth brush.

Spray liberally, scrub, and rinse. Repeat until clean.

You can also remove the throttle body for cleaning.

Remove all the control cables, loosen the bolts, and remove for cleaning. On
the 4 liter you have to replace the gasket, the 4.7's is reusable..


If you have an IAC motor you can undo the 2 bolts holding it on and
carefully pull it out. Clean with the spray and a clean rag. Allow to dry
before reassembly.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2122181169


"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iOudnV8CgvWW5g7ZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get everything
> clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership in the
> Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on my
> preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.
>
>
>
>
> Mike Romain proclaimed:
>> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
>> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster. These
>> are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
>> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
>> cleaning them is dramatic.
>>
>> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
>> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
>> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
>> 650 rpm. Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Seahag wrote:
>>
>>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>>starts normally.
>>>>
>>>>Seahag
>>>>
>>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>>few seconds.
>>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>>If it fires
>>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>>lately.
>>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>>last
>>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>>his
>>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>>
>>>>

billy ray

You don't have to remove the air box but you will have to pull off the pipe
that goes from the throttle body to the air box.

You can do a pretty good cleaning with removing the throttle body from the
intake manifold with the use of a good cleaner and an old tooth brush.

Spray liberally, scrub, and rinse. Repeat until clean.

You can also remove the throttle body for cleaning.

Remove all the control cables, loosen the bolts, and remove for cleaning. On
the 4 liter you have to replace the gasket, the 4.7's is reusable..


If you have an IAC motor you can undo the 2 bolts holding it on and
carefully pull it out. Clean with the spray and a clean rag. Allow to dry
before reassembly.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2122181169


"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iOudnV8CgvWW5g7ZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get everything
> clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership in the
> Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on my
> preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.
>
>
>
>
> Mike Romain proclaimed:
>> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
>> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster. These
>> are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
>> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
>> cleaning them is dramatic.
>>
>> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
>> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
>> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
>> 650 rpm. Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Seahag wrote:
>>
>>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>>starts normally.
>>>>
>>>>Seahag
>>>>
>>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>>few seconds.
>>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>>If it fires
>>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>>lately.
>>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>>last
>>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>>his
>>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>>
>>>>

billy ray

You don't have to remove the air box but you will have to pull off the pipe
that goes from the throttle body to the air box.

You can do a pretty good cleaning with removing the throttle body from the
intake manifold with the use of a good cleaner and an old tooth brush.

Spray liberally, scrub, and rinse. Repeat until clean.

You can also remove the throttle body for cleaning.

Remove all the control cables, loosen the bolts, and remove for cleaning. On
the 4 liter you have to replace the gasket, the 4.7's is reusable..


If you have an IAC motor you can undo the 2 bolts holding it on and
carefully pull it out. Clean with the spray and a clean rag. Allow to dry
before reassembly.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2122181169


"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iOudnV8CgvWW5g7ZnZ2dnUVZ_qmdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get everything
> clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership in the
> Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on my
> preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.
>
>
>
>
> Mike Romain proclaimed:
>> I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS
>> connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster. These
>> are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by
>> the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of
>> cleaning them is dramatic.
>>
>> My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it
>> was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what
>> looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at
>> 650 rpm. Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Seahag wrote:
>>
>>>OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the
>>>guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start
>>>it. I got the same laggy start.
>>>
>>>Seahag
>>>
>>>"Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already
>>>>started her today and after the first laggy start-up she
>>>>starts normally.
>>>>
>>>>Seahag
>>>>
>>>><Matt Osborn> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Fuel pump. Try turning the key on without starting for a
>>>>>few seconds.
>>>>>Then turn the key off and back on to engage the starter.
>>>>>If it fires
>>>>>right up, then the check valve in the fuel pump is the
>>>>>likely culprit.
>>>>>
>>>>> "Seahag" <Seahag@toadymail.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Clemmie ('02 TJ Sport) has been a bit hard to start
>>>>>>lately.
>>>>>>I have to lean on the key maybe twice as long as in the
>>>>>>last
>>>>>>3 years. A Jeep buddy is having the same problem with
>>>>>>his
>>>>>>'97 and attributes it to the summer gas additives.
>>>>>>Thoughts?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Seahag
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>-- msosborn at msosborn dot com
>>>>
>>>>

DougW

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
> everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
> in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
> my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.

You can do a much better job if you remove the TB and put it on the bench.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

But you can also get good results with just an old toothbrush and
TB cleaner. Cleaning the idle air passage isn't as easy but you
can remove that bit from the throttle body then put it back.

Prior to taking the throttle body off you might want to get
a new gasket. Usually they are reusable but sometimes they rip.

You don't have to remove the electroics unless you want to.
The TPS should be left alone. If you remove the IAC (idle air
controller) don't pull on the pintle, just spray the cavity and
hit it with a toothbrush.

--
DougW

DougW

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
> everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
> in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
> my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.

You can do a much better job if you remove the TB and put it on the bench.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

But you can also get good results with just an old toothbrush and
TB cleaner. Cleaning the idle air passage isn't as easy but you
can remove that bit from the throttle body then put it back.

Prior to taking the throttle body off you might want to get
a new gasket. Usually they are reusable but sometimes they rip.

You don't have to remove the electroics unless you want to.
The TPS should be left alone. If you remove the IAC (idle air
controller) don't pull on the pintle, just spray the cavity and
hit it with a toothbrush.

--
DougW

DougW

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get
> everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership
> in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on
> my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.

You can do a much better job if you remove the TB and put it on the bench.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

But you can also get good results with just an old toothbrush and
TB cleaner. Cleaning the idle air passage isn't as easy but you
can remove that bit from the throttle body then put it back.

Prior to taking the throttle body off you might want to get
a new gasket. Usually they are reusable but sometimes they rip.

You don't have to remove the electroics unless you want to.
The TPS should be left alone. If you remove the IAC (idle air
controller) don't pull on the pintle, just spray the cavity and
hit it with a toothbrush.

--
DougW