Frozen Doors TJ
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
J. Clarke wrote:
>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)
>
> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it
> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid they use
to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that stuff won't
react with much of anything.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)
>
> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it
> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid they use
to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that stuff won't
react with much of anything.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
> news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny...
> ...
>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And
>> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up.
>> Might have to do it more than once.
>>
> We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the
> door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with
> the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk
> that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match
> or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts.
Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If
someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it
you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in
a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is
still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with
the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts
re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a
spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at
least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have
been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin -
seems to last a lot longer than the original ones.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
> news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny...
> ...
>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And
>> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up.
>> Might have to do it more than once.
>>
> We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the
> door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with
> the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk
> that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match
> or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts.
Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If
someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it
you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in
a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is
still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with
the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts
re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a
spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at
least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have
been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin -
seems to last a lot longer than the original ones.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Earle Horton wrote:
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
> news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny...
> ...
>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And
>> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up.
>> Might have to do it more than once.
>>
> We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the
> door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with
> the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk
> that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match
> or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts.
Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If
someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it
you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in
a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is
still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with
the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts
re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a
spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at
least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have
been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin -
seems to last a lot longer than the original ones.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> "Frank_v7.0" <none@no.net> wrote in message
> news:wwA4j.21532$ya1.1618@news02.roc.ny...
> ...
>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And
>> in case of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>> (holding it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up.
>> Might have to do it more than once.
>>
> We're talking about some weird looking levers and gizmos inside the
> door, that connect the lock cylinder and the internal lock control with
> the door latch. These are lubed from the factory with a type of gunk
> that congeals after a few seasons. You can heat up the key with a match
> or cigarette lighter all day long and it won't even touch those parts.
Amen! I need to re-do the doors assemblies on my MJ after a few years. If
someone presses the latch button before you put the key in to unlock it
you're in for a wait. The gunk on the mechanism holds a couple of parts in
a position that makes the whole linkage look like the release button is
still pushed and there is no way in hell to get it to unlock - even with
the manual lock button - until that crap warms up and lets the parts
re-align. I think another part of the problem there is that there is a
spring on the piece the button hits that seems to break regularly - at
least it's been broken on every one I've disassembled. Most of mine have
been replaced with springs made from an appropriate sized safety pin -
seems to last a lot longer than the original ones.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Will Honea wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
>>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear
>>> !)
>>
>> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves
>> it
>> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
>> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
>
> 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid
> they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that
> stuff won't react with much of anything.
Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
>>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear
>>> !)
>>
>> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves
>> it
>> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
>> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
>
> 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid
> they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that
> stuff won't react with much of anything.
Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Will Honea wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
>>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear
>>> !)
>>
>> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves
>> it
>> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
>> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
>
> 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid
> they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that
> stuff won't react with much of anything.
Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
> J. Clarke wrote:
>
>>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear
>>> !)
>>
>> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves
>> it
>> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
>> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.
>
> 'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid
> they use to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that
> stuff won't react with much of anything.
Read the MSDS, there's no "carrier fluid" and no Teflon.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
off of it? It's that time of year again.
Cheers,
Earle
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with
something
> else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a
decent
> wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.
>
> I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE
in a
> carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
> locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car
doors
> and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but
it
> sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper
than
> most bicycle specific brands.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best
lube
> > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a
spray
> > wash,
> >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag
under
> > the
> >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned
area
> > dry
> >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> > lock you
> >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> > days....
> >>
> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >>
> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> > "brew"
> >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> > fluid
> >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> > factory
> >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> > got to
> >> > it it was like molasses in January.
> >> >
> >> > Cheers,
> >> >
> >> > Earle
> >> >
> >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> > grease,
> >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> > temperature.
> >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
> >> > multigrades
> >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
> >> >>
> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you
just
> > use
> >> > a
> >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> > even
> >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
> >> >>
> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of
pure
> >> > synth
> >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of
which
> >> > you
> >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> > congealed
> >> > so
> >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> > had
> >> > to
> >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor
oil.
> >> > You
> >> >> > could have a similar problem.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Good luck,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Earle
> >> >> >
> >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> >> >> >> hi guys,
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches
freeze)
> >> > when
> >> >> >> it drops below freezing
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> thanks
> >> >> >> Jeff
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea
> >>
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
off of it? It's that time of year again.
Cheers,
Earle
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with
something
> else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a
decent
> wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.
>
> I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE
in a
> carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
> locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car
doors
> and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but
it
> sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper
than
> most bicycle specific brands.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best
lube
> > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a
spray
> > wash,
> >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag
under
> > the
> >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned
area
> > dry
> >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> > lock you
> >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> > days....
> >>
> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >>
> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> > "brew"
> >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> > fluid
> >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> > factory
> >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> > got to
> >> > it it was like molasses in January.
> >> >
> >> > Cheers,
> >> >
> >> > Earle
> >> >
> >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> > grease,
> >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> > temperature.
> >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
> >> > multigrades
> >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
> >> >>
> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you
just
> > use
> >> > a
> >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> > even
> >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
> >> >>
> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of
pure
> >> > synth
> >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of
which
> >> > you
> >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> > congealed
> >> > so
> >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> > had
> >> > to
> >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor
oil.
> >> > You
> >> >> > could have a similar problem.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Good luck,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Earle
> >> >> >
> >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> >> >> >> hi guys,
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches
freeze)
> >> > when
> >> >> >> it drops below freezing
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> thanks
> >> >> >> Jeff
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea
> >>
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
off of it? It's that time of year again.
Cheers,
Earle
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with
something
> else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a
decent
> wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.
>
> I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE
in a
> carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
> locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car
doors
> and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but
it
> sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper
than
> most bicycle specific brands.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best
lube
> > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a
spray
> > wash,
> >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag
under
> > the
> >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned
area
> > dry
> >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> > lock you
> >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> > days....
> >>
> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >>
> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> > "brew"
> >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> > fluid
> >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> > factory
> >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> > got to
> >> > it it was like molasses in January.
> >> >
> >> > Cheers,
> >> >
> >> > Earle
> >> >
> >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> > grease,
> >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> > temperature.
> >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
> >> > multigrades
> >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
> >> >>
> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you
just
> > use
> >> > a
> >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> > even
> >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
> >> >>
> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of
pure
> >> > synth
> >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of
which
> >> > you
> >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> > congealed
> >> > so
> >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> > had
> >> > to
> >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor
oil.
> >> > You
> >> >> > could have a similar problem.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Good luck,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Earle
> >> >> >
> >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> >> >> >> hi guys,
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches
freeze)
> >> > when
> >> >> >> it drops below freezing
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> thanks
> >> >> >> Jeff
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea
> >>
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
off of it? It's that time of year again.
Cheers,
Earle
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:47531d29$0$26086$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with
something
> else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a
decent
> wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.
>
> I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE
in a
> carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
> locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car
doors
> and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but
it
> sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper
than
> most bicycle specific brands.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
>
> > WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best
lube
> > for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> > couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> > dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> > didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Earle
> >
> > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> >> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a
spray
> > wash,
> >> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag
under
> > the
> >> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned
area
> > dry
> >> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> > lock you
> >> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> > days....
> >>
> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >>
> >> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> > "brew"
> >> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> > fluid
> >> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> > factory
> >> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> > got to
> >> > it it was like molasses in January.
> >> >
> >> > Cheers,
> >> >
> >> > Earle
> >> >
> >> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> >> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> > grease,
> >> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> > temperature.
> >> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
> >> > multigrades
> >> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
> >> >>
> >> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you
just
> > use
> >> > a
> >> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> > even
> >> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
> >> >>
> >> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of
pure
> >> > synth
> >> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of
which
> >> > you
> >> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> Earle Horton wrote:
> >> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> > congealed
> >> > so
> >> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> > had
> >> > to
> >> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor
oil.
> >> > You
> >> >> > could have a similar problem.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Good luck,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Earle
> >> >> >
> >> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> >> >> >> hi guys,
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches
freeze)
> >> > when
> >> >> >> it drops below freezing
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> thanks
> >> >> >> Jeff
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> --
> >> Will Honea
> >>
> >> --
> >> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Will Honea
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frozen Doors TJ
Scott in Baltimore wrote:
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
>> off of it? It's that time of year again.
>
>
> PAM cooking spray.
That works for a while but if it does anything like it does on some of my
big pots it will age to a gummy mess. This PTFE spray-on stuff seemed to
hold up pretty well in the weather. I had one door on an outhouse) that
would get ice built up in the hinges to the point that the door didn't open
until Spring (genius carpenter hung the door to open out, so the hinge was
exposed). I didn't have any notion of keeping the ice off when I sprayed
the hinges, but I get almost no ice buildup there any more, or at least it
breaks off easily. I don't use the outhouse for much besides storage
anymore (Hurrah for indoor toilets in the winter!!) so I don't pay much
attention and that might have just been the weather instead of the spray.
At least the bears didn't try to lick it off.
Best answer I've seen for the dish is either a fairly heavy (10 mil or so)
plastic sheet stretched over the dish, especially the small satellite type.
Another guy sitting here swears that something like Turtle Wax will also
work, but I have my doubts on that one.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> Earle Horton wrote:
>> By the way, what do you recommend for my satellite dish, to keep the ice
>> off of it? It's that time of year again.
>
>
> PAM cooking spray.
That works for a while but if it does anything like it does on some of my
big pots it will age to a gummy mess. This PTFE spray-on stuff seemed to
hold up pretty well in the weather. I had one door on an outhouse) that
would get ice built up in the hinges to the point that the door didn't open
until Spring (genius carpenter hung the door to open out, so the hinge was
exposed). I didn't have any notion of keeping the ice off when I sprayed
the hinges, but I get almost no ice buildup there any more, or at least it
breaks off easily. I don't use the outhouse for much besides storage
anymore (Hurrah for indoor toilets in the winter!!) so I don't pay much
attention and that might have just been the weather instead of the spray.
At least the bears didn't try to lick it off.
Best answer I've seen for the dish is either a fairly heavy (10 mil or so)
plastic sheet stretched over the dish, especially the small satellite type.
Another guy sitting here swears that something like Turtle Wax will also
work, but I have my doubts on that one.
--
Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
