DougW

Frank_v7.0 wrote:

> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case
> of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding
> it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to
> do it more than once.

graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease
for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :)
http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html

--
DougW

Dave Milne

Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". What they
didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
(not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)

Dave

"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx...
> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>
> > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
> > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case
> > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding
> > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to
> > do it more than once.
>
> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease
> for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :)
> http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

Dave Milne

Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white". What they
didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
(not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)

Dave

"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx...
> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>
> > Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
> > regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in case
> > of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter (holding
> > it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have to
> > do it more than once.
>
> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium grease
> for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would too. :)
> http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

J. Clarke

Dave Milne wrote:
> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)

However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it
for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.

> Dave
>
> "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx...
>> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>>
>>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in
>>> case
>>> of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>>> (holding
>>> it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have
>>> to
>>> do it more than once.
>>
>> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium
>> grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would
>> too.
>> :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html
>>
>> --
>> DougW

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke

Dave Milne wrote:
> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)

However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it
for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.

> Dave
>
> "DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:nXB4j.38$KU2.5@newsfe11.phx...
>> Frank_v7.0 wrote:
>>
>>> Anybody mention graphite yet? It's a "dry" lubricant. Used it on a
>>> regular basis when I lived in Vermont and New Hampshire. And in
>>> case
>>> of emergency heat the key with a match or cigarette lighter
>>> (holding
>>> it in a gloved hand) and let it warm the mechanism up. Might have
>>> to
>>> do it more than once.
>>
>> graphite is good for the inside of locks but a bit messy. Lithium
>> grease for low temperature works. And this stuff probably would
>> too.
>> :) http://www.superior-industries.com/s...oduct_114.html
>>
>> --
>> DougW

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Jeff Strickland

Clean the latch mechanism with a suitable cleaner, then leave it dry.

WD40 makes a very crappy lubricant, and my guess is that your latch has seem
ample doses of WD40 over the years. WD40 is a reasonably good cleaner, I
suppose. It will disolve the gunk and crud that is beating you up, but it
will dry and turn to goo, cauisng you to have problems again.

If you use WD40 to clean the gunk and goo, then you need another product to
remove the WD40. I do not think yo ucan clean the latch while it is still
installed in the door, I would be opening the door to get the latch out,
then clean the latch on your work bench. After it is thoroughly cleaned and
dried, put it back in.

I think your trouble is that you have ---- and crud built up inside the
latch, and this mess freezes and keeps the latch from operating freely. I
don't know what lubricant ought to be used, but going out on my limb, I'd
suggest a good White Lithium grease that will not freeze. Having said that,
I live in Southern California where we seldom see freezing temps, so what do
I know?





"Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> hi guys,
>
> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when
> it drops below freezing
>
> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
>
> thanks
> Jeff
>
> IN Frozen Canada

Jeff Strickland

Clean the latch mechanism with a suitable cleaner, then leave it dry.

WD40 makes a very crappy lubricant, and my guess is that your latch has seem
ample doses of WD40 over the years. WD40 is a reasonably good cleaner, I
suppose. It will disolve the gunk and crud that is beating you up, but it
will dry and turn to goo, cauisng you to have problems again.

If you use WD40 to clean the gunk and goo, then you need another product to
remove the WD40. I do not think yo ucan clean the latch while it is still
installed in the door, I would be opening the door to get the latch out,
then clean the latch on your work bench. After it is thoroughly cleaned and
dried, put it back in.

I think your trouble is that you have ---- and crud built up inside the
latch, and this mess freezes and keeps the latch from operating freely. I
don't know what lubricant ought to be used, but going out on my limb, I'd
suggest a good White Lithium grease that will not freeze. Having said that,
I live in Southern California where we seldom see freezing temps, so what do
I know?





"Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> hi guys,
>
> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze) when
> it drops below freezing
>
> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
>
> thanks
> Jeff
>
> IN Frozen Canada

Will Honea

Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something
else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent
wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.

I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a
carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors
and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it
sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than
most bicycle specific brands.

Earle Horton wrote:

> WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube
> for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Earle
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
>> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray
> wash,
>> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under
> the
>> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area
> dry
>> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> lock you
>> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> days....
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>
>> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> "brew"
>> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> fluid
>> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> factory
>> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> got to
>> > it it was like molasses in January.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Earle
>> >
>> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> grease,
>> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> temperature.
>> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
>> > multigrades
>> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
>> >>
>> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just
> use
>> > a
>> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> even
>> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
>> >>
>> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure
>> > synth
>> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which
>> > you
>> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Earle Horton wrote:
>> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> congealed
>> > so
>> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> had
>> > to
>> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil.
>> > You
>> >> > could have a similar problem.
>> >> >
>> >> > Good luck,
>> >> >
>> >> > Earle
>> >> >
>> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >> >
>> >
> news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
>> >> >> hi guys,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze)
>> > when
>> >> >> it drops below freezing
>> >> >>
>> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
>> >> >>
>> >> >> thanks
>> >> >> Jeff
>> >> >>
>> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>>
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>>
>
>
>

--
Will Honea

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Will Honea

Note that I did say blow the parts dry and then lube them with something
else <g>. The reason I use WD40 is that the pressure spray does a decent
wash job and not for it's lubrication properties.

I had good luck using a spray lube that was basically suspended PTFE in a
carrier. I bought the can several years back to lube door and window
locks/hardware at the mountain cabin and it worked really well on car doors
and locks. Used it up and haven't seen the same stuff for a while but it
sounds similar to what you describe - but this stuff was a lot cheaper than
most bicycle specific brands.

Earle Horton wrote:

> WD40 won't stay like motor oil will. I really don't know the best lube
> for this application, but it appears that you have to redo it every
> couple years once the factory lube turns solid. I tried some high
> dollar bicycle lube with "suspended teflon particles" but it really
> didn't do any better than 10w30 or ATF.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Earle
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:47524d90$0$25977$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
>> I find that WD40 will disolve about any grease. I use it like a spray
> wash,
>> especially in tight spots (like the lock linkages). Stuff a rag under
> the
>> work area to catch the run-off and have at it. Blow the cleaned area
> dry
>> and spray it with a good low temp lube. Of course, it it's a door
> lock you
>> then have to put up with that sickly sweet smell of WD40 for a few
> days....
>>
>> Earle Horton wrote:
>>
>> > It's not that cold here, but yeah I hear you and I have a similar
> "brew"
>> > for such occasions. I have a quart of Type F auto transmission
> fluid
>> > left here by a previous property owner... I don't know what the
> factory
>> > used to lube the door mechanism on my Wrangler, but by the time I
> got to
>> > it it was like molasses in January.
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Earle
>> >
>> > "Lon Stowell" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> > news:XYKdnaqxppVMBszanZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>> >> With the caution that before you lube anything with any oil or
> grease,
>> >> you try pouring that oil or grease at the local ambient
> temperature.
>> >> In some places it gets cold enough to turn all but the best
>> > multigrades
>> >> into something about as thick as Vaseline.
>> >>
>> >> Trick is to get all of any old congealed grease out. If you just
> use
>> > a
>> >> penetrating oil, it may just evaporate and leave the old grease
> even
>> >> more nastily distributed in the locking mechanism.
>> >>
>> >> The best cure I've discovered is a home made witches brew of pure
>> > synth
>> >> multigrade motor oil, STP, and Marvel Mystery...the latter of which
>> > you
>> >> could probably substitute refined kerosene for.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Earle Horton wrote:
>> >> > I don't know about the TJ but on the YJ the factory grease
> congealed
>> > so
>> >> > I couldn't lock or unlock my doors in cold weather. I finally
> had
>> > to
>> >> > take them apart and lube the offending parts with some motor oil.
>> > You
>> >> > could have a similar problem.
>> >> >
>> >> > Good luck,
>> >> >
>> >> > Earle
>> >> >
>> >> > "Sailor_Jeff" <toycen@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> >> >
>> >
> news:cb5c13bd-d6bb-4fe3-aef3-31b14ad023ab@d61g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
>> >> >> hi guys,
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I have a 2001 TJ and the doors wont stay closed (latches freeze)
>> > when
>> >> >> it drops below freezing
>> >> >>
>> >> >> does anyone know what i should lubricate to prevent this
>> >> >>
>> >> >> thanks
>> >> >> Jeff
>> >> >>
>> >> >> IN Frozen Canada
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea
>>
>> --
>> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>>
>
>
>

--
Will Honea

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Will Honea

J. Clarke wrote:

>> Heh, you can't smell it, or taste it, and it looks "water white".
>> What they didn't say was whether it was toxic :-)
>> (not that I normally go around licking my doors, just to be clear !)
>
> However the MSDS indicated no known toxicity and the FDA approves it
> for use in food processing plants, so if there is any it's either
> damned low or so long term that it's not possible to test for it.

'taint the working material that's nasty, it's the carrier liquid they use
to keep it suspended. You're talking about teflon and that stuff won't
react with much of anything.

--
Will Honea

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com