Front U-joints
Guest
Posts: n/a
Front U-joints
I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could be
that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well.
All advice appreciated. Don
removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could be
that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well.
All advice appreciated. Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Don Hamilton wrote:
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Don Hamilton wrote:
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Don Hamilton wrote:
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Don Hamilton wrote:
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
> after removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that
> need to come out next. My question what is the proper tool for these?
> Is some type of axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have
> a clatter type rattle mainly when turning both locked and free. I
> have jacked the car and cannot find any thing loose, shocks, torsion,
> exhaust. It seems to come from the right front. I have not checked
> the rear but cannot believe my ears could be that far off. The
> u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my mileage it
> wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as well. All
> advice appreciated. Don
Got those on my ZJ. If they are the same ones, I just used a 12 point
13mm socket. Once those three bolts came out the axle slid out.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
U-joints shouldn't have any play.
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
U-joints shouldn't have any play.
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
U-joints shouldn't have any play.
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
U-joints shouldn't have any play.
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
The three bolts that hold the unit wheel bearing in the knuckle are 13mm
12-point bolts, you'll need a 12-point socket.
Soak the bolts and all around the bearing/knuckle mating surface with
penetrating oil like PB Blaster for a day or so, esp if you live in the rust
belt.
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
>I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and after
>removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
>out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
>axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
>mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
>find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
>right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
>be that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with
>my mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
>well. All advice appreciated. Don
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front U-joints
Hi Don,
Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
The axles slide out.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
after
> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
be
> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
well.
> All advice appreciated. Don
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Use the spindle bolts, just unscrewed a couple of threads to drive the
bearing assemble out, with penetrating oil. Similar to these Dana 30s:
http://www.----------.com/Dana30WheelBearing/index.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/
The axles slide out.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Don Hamilton" <CDHamilnospam@excite.com> wrote in message
news:12t4p37qvubv246@corp.supernews.com...
> I was going to change my u-joints on my 05 Rubicon (70,000 miles) and
after
> removing the rotors there are some male torx type bolts that need to come
> out next. My question what is the proper tool for these? Is some type of
> axel puller also needed to get the shaft out? I have a clatter type rattle
> mainly when turning both locked and free. I have jacked the car and cannot
> find any thing loose, shocks, torsion, exhaust. It seems to come from the
> right front. I have not checked the rear but cannot believe my ears could
be
> that far off. The u-joints have a small amount of play and I feel with my
> mileage it wouldn't hurt. That way I could get some correct spares as
well.
> All advice appreciated. Don
>
>
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com