Front brakes dragging
01-02-2006, 11:05 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Front brakes dragging
Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
totally mushy.
I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
calipers or whatever...
I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
(that high-temp grease crap)
The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
dragging front brakes.
Thanks for the help!
After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
totally mushy.
I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
calipers or whatever...
I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
(that high-temp grease crap)
The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
dragging front brakes.
Thanks for the help!
01-03-2006, 12:25 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
01-03-2006, 12:25 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
01-03-2006, 12:25 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
pads?
Carl
"Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> totally mushy.
>
> I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
>
> Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> calipers or whatever...
>
> I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> (that high-temp grease crap)
>
> The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
>
> One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> dragging front brakes.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
01-03-2006, 02:54 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset. It's the metal
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
01-03-2006, 02:54 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset. It's the metal
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
01-03-2006, 02:54 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
First, you need to get the proportioner valve reset. It's the metal
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
block between the master cylinder and the lines out to the wheels.
I'm not sure, but I think the 88/89 had a pin you push in but some
report having to pull the pin out. Whichever way it goes, blosk it
open (or have someone hod it open) and crack the bleed ports on the
wheels one at a time. That may let it center. If not, it can be fun
getting that !@#$% proportioner valve re-centered - you have to crack
a port on one end only while applying SLIGHT pressure. Of course,
every time I've tried it I either get too much pressure and.or got the
wrong way first...
Replace the front calipers. Mine ('88) had a slight ridge in the
piston bore that was enough to cause the pads to drag badly - and the
hotter they got, the more the drag. Calipers ar cheap - $25-30.
On Tue, 3 Jan 2006 05:25:12 UTC "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com>
wrote:
> did you push the pistons completely back in when you changed the front brake
> pads?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Jolley" <mormonator@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1136261128.421301.281960@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
> > Okay, so my Sister gifted me her 1989 Cherokee which needed some TLC.
> > After replacing all 6 fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator I
> > attacked the brakes - which had WAY to much pedal travel and where
> > totally mushy.
> >
> > I did a lot of searching through this site and decided to start with
> > replacing the fluid in the entire system which actually fixed 90% of
> > the problem. I then decided to go ahead and replace all the pads and
> > the rear pistons on the drums because they looked dark and a little
> > suspicious. (of course both ended up to be leaky).
> >
> > Anywho, when all was said and done I took her for a test drive today
> > and the brakes are working MUCH better, but now a new problem has
> > emerged: the front disks are dragging to the point that after driving a
> > few miles I can smell them when I stop... (It is very difficult for me
> > to push the car when it is in neutral.) I first thought it was just the
> > new brakes and they needed to 'burn' in a little, but after 10 miles
> > and a few HARD testing stops I'm starting to worry. I don't want to
> > drive it too much and do crazy damage to the rotors or pistons or
> > calipers or whatever...
> >
> > I've searched the forum and read about properly lubing things - while
> > changing the pads I was meticulous about lubing the pins and applied
> > lube to all the contact areas between the piston/housing and pads.
> > (that high-temp grease crap)
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that I seem to remember bleeding the
> > brakes with the lid off of the master. I don't know that this would
> > cause the brakes to be overly constricted, but to be honest, I don't
> > know much! (if it ain't in the book...)
> >
> > One last tid-bit: the 'Brake' light on the dashboard is lit. I know the
> > lines are bubble free, and I checked the hand brake switch (unplugged
> > it and the light stayed on) and so I unplugged the connector to the
> > combination valve and this causes the light to go off. of course when I
> > plug it back in it comes back on... I'm thinking that I have a bad
> > combination valve, or at least that electrical sensor on it is faulty.
> > Either way, I don't see how this would cause my trouble with the
> > dragging front brakes.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
>
>
--
Will Honea
01-03-2006, 10:24 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
On my TJ I had that problem, front brakes dragging I could smell them
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy
01-03-2006, 10:24 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
On my TJ I had that problem, front brakes dragging I could smell them
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy
01-03-2006, 10:24 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Front brakes dragging
On my TJ I had that problem, front brakes dragging I could smell them
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy
burning after a while (right after a brake job). Turns out I put one brake
caliper bolt in crooked, so the pad wasn't straight against the rotor on the
left side. I had to drill out the bolt hole and put a helicoil in it to fix
it all. No problems since.
Troy