Ya I've looked at those frame plate, but that involves a little more
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes
mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and
frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I
have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can
Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I
will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I had something along these lines in mind:
> http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
>
> Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> LOL!
>>
>> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>>
>> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the
>> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at
>> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross
>> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with
>> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after
>> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than
>> the outside C half frame.
>>
>> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>>
>> What do you have for a cutter??
>>
>> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>>
>> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
>> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Greg wrote:
>>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me,
>>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices
>>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior
>>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide
>>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail,
>>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once
>>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70
>>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring
>>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs
>>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email
>>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back
>>>> looking for a steering shaft.
>>>>
>>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>>
>>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>>
>>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for
>>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one
>>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me
>>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame
>>>> home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>>
>>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>>> there.
>>>>
>>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back
>>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and
>>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>>>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>>
>>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare
>>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so
>>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the
>>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I
>>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>>>
>>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the
>>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for
>>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold
>>>> onto.
>>>>
>>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my
>>>> rad so it's new.
>>>>
>>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted
>>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a
>>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new
>>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together
>>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother
>>>> stealing that...
>>>>
>>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>

 

Ya I've looked at those frame plate, but that involves a little more
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes
mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and
frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I
have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can
Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I
will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time.

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I had something along these lines in mind:
> http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
>
> Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> LOL!
>>
>> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>>
>> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the
>> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at
>> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross
>> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with
>> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after
>> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than
>> the outside C half frame.
>>
>> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>>
>> What do you have for a cutter??
>>
>> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>>
>> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
>> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Greg wrote:
>>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me,
>>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices
>>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior
>>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide
>>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail,
>>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once
>>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70
>>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring
>>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs
>>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email
>>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back
>>>> looking for a steering shaft.
>>>>
>>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>>
>>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>>
>>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for
>>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one
>>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me
>>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame
>>>> home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>>
>>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>>> there.
>>>>
>>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back
>>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and
>>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>>>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>>
>>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare
>>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so
>>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the
>>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I
>>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>>>
>>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the
>>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for
>>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold
>>>> onto.
>>>>
>>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my
>>>> rad so it's new.
>>>>
>>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted
>>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a
>>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new
>>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together
>>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother
>>>> stealing that...
>>>>
>>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>