Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
up Friday.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
> steering shaft.
>
> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>
> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>
> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
> was told it is from a 78.
>
> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>
> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>
> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>
> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>
> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
> it's new.
>
> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>
> This is going to be fun...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
LOL!
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
LOL!
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
LOL!
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
is smaller than the outside C half frame.
I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
What do you have for a cutter??
That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
Mike
Greg wrote:
> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super market,
> http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me, but I see
> there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices of 1/8" walled
> 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior size, same as
> frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide under frame from just
> in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail, it will take a bit of
> notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once welded in it will
> deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it
> up Friday.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring out
>> how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs and
>> there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email came in
>> from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back looking for a
>> steering shaft.
>>
>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one some
>> other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post showed this
>> really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>
>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>
>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for an
>> extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one on
>> the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me with
>> his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame home. I
>> was told it is from a 78.
>>
>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but figure
>> it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake lines from the
>> top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for the springs and sway
>> bar already installed so I don't have to worry there.
>>
>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back in
>> '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and killed
>> it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>
>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on things
>> like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare and rack
>> mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so I figure I
>> am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the galvanizing. The
>> tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I can get inside from
>> the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>
>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box both
>> of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just guessing
>> about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the side holes
>> to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for the rear
>> shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold onto.
>>
>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in an
>> empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my rad so
>> it's new.
>>
>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted to
>> a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a tank
>> for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new one off my
>> front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together a 'ghetto' air
>> tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother stealing that...
>>
>> This is going to be fun...
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
I had something along these lines in mind:
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
I had something along these lines in mind:
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
I had something along these lines in mind:
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
Mike
Mike Romain wrote:
> LOL!
>
> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>
> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up
> the shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well,
> 6" at least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas
> tank cross member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square
> tubing with some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to
> fit snug after I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half
> is smaller than the outside C half frame.
>
> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>
> What do you have for a cutter??
>
> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>
> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>
> Mike
>
> Greg wrote:
>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for
>> me, but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5'
>> peices of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4"
>> interior size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and
>> slide under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back
>> tail, it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps,
>> but once welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost
>> is $93.70 plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush,
>>> I noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was
>>> figuring out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was
>>> repairing repairs and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to
>>> weld to when an email came in from a Website's thread monitor I
>>> posted to a while back looking for a steering shaft.
>>>
>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>
>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>
>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad
>>> for an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the
>>> last one on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it
>>> up for me with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice
>>> clean frame home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>
>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back
>>> in 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>> there.
>>>
>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame
>>> back in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out
>>> and killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has
>>> been sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>
>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom
>>> spare and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on
>>> them so I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with
>>> the galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the
>>> crossmember so I can get inside from the back end with a tube on the
>>> spray can.
>>>
>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through
>>> the side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good
>>> structure for the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer
>>> hitch to hold onto.
>>>
>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on
>>> my rad so it's new.
>>>
>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor
>>> bolted to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing
>>> up to a tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my
>>> nice new one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I
>>> put together a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one
>>> will bother stealing that...
>>>
>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame swap restore for my 86 CJ7
Ya I've looked at those frame plate, but that involves a little more
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes
mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and
frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I
have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can
Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I
will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I had something along these lines in mind:
> http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
>
> Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> LOL!
>>
>> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>>
>> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the
>> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at
>> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross
>> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with
>> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after
>> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than
>> the outside C half frame.
>>
>> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>>
>> What do you have for a cutter??
>>
>> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>>
>> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
>> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Greg wrote:
>>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me,
>>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices
>>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior
>>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide
>>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail,
>>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once
>>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70
>>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring
>>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs
>>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email
>>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back
>>>> looking for a steering shaft.
>>>>
>>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>>
>>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>>
>>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for
>>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one
>>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me
>>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame
>>>> home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>>
>>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>>> there.
>>>>
>>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back
>>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and
>>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>>>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>>
>>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare
>>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so
>>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the
>>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I
>>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>>>
>>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the
>>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for
>>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold
>>>> onto.
>>>>
>>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my
>>>> rad so it's new.
>>>>
>>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted
>>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a
>>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new
>>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together
>>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother
>>>> stealing that...
>>>>
>>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>
welding, as for cutting it wont be bad, some notches here and there, and yes
mine goes from 4 1/2" to 3 1/2". I'm replacing both rear cross members and
frame is stripped of everything, so it wont be too bad. As for cutting I
have a 14" cutoff, but most will be angle grinder with cutoff disks, Can
Tire had the 15 packs for $9.99 a while ago, so I have 30 of them, figure I
will box the whole thing for about $120.00 plus my time.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:47167956$0$28506$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com...
>I had something along these lines in mind:
> http://www.mountainoffroad.com/more.htm
>
> Click on frame plates on the catalog first page.
>
> Mike
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> LOL!
>>
>> I too just got off the phone with metalsupermarket here in Ontario!
>>
>> I was thinking 3/16 plate and just doing the rear outside, picking up the
>> shackle hangers with weld up as far as the front rear hanger, well, 6" at
>> least past there, then doing the inside rear as far as the gas tank cross
>> member. I am going to stuff the tails with 2 1/4" square tubing with
>> some strips of plate welded onto it on the outside half to fit snug after
>> I galvanize the inside of the frame. The inside C half is smaller than
>> the outside C half frame.
>>
>> I wouldn't want to box mine on the outside due to rust belt factors....
>>
>> What do you have for a cutter??
>>
>> That is going to be an insane amount of cutting you want to do.
>>
>> My frame starts at 3 X 2 1/2" at the tail and slowly deepens up to 4 1/2
>> X 2 11/16 at the front of the rear spring hanger.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Greg wrote:
>>> Hey Mike, I just got off the phone with a place called metal super
>>> market, http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/ there's one in Naniamo for me,
>>> but I see there are lots in Ontario. Anyway I am getting 2 - 5' peices
>>> of 1/8" walled 4"x3" rectangle tubing, which gives it a 2 3/4" interior
>>> size, same as frame. So I am going to cut one 3" side off and slide
>>> under frame from just in front of rear mid spring hanger to back tail,
>>> it will take a bit of notching to go up and over wheel humps, but once
>>> welded in it will deffinately add the strength I need. Cost is $93.70
>>> plus tax, I'll pick it up Friday.
>>>
>>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>>> news:471182ac$0$6058$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshostin g.com...
>>>> After the last 10 day Labour Day camping trip way back into the bush, I
>>>> noticed the CJ7's frame cracked in three new places. I was figuring
>>>> out how to repair them yesterday, then figured I was repairing repairs
>>>> and there 'really' wasn't anything left there to weld to when an email
>>>> came in from a Website's thread monitor I posted to a while back
>>>> looking for a steering shaft.
>>>>
>>>> The gent was saying he still had parts (no shaft, but I got a new one
>>>> some other place) so I looked just because I was bored and the post
>>>> showed this really pretty looking CJ7 frame.....
>>>>
>>>> Well coincidence or not, I showed my wife and she said go for it and
>>>> handed me money. So I did and now have a 'project'. LOL!
>>>>
>>>> The gent tossed in a gas tank and good skid plate which I need bad for
>>>> an extra $20.00, Have no skid plate at all right now, lost the last one
>>>> on the trail, and I gave my son 20 for gas when he picked it up for me
>>>> with his mini van so for less than $350.00 I got a nice clean frame
>>>> home. I was told it is from a 78.
>>>>
>>>> Now to build it up for install. I put all new lines in my CJ7 back in
>>>> 99/2000 when I did a frame up build with the fiberglass body, but
>>>> figure it is time for all new again. So easy to run gas and brake
>>>> lines from the top.... This frame has all new mounting bushings for
>>>> the springs and sway bar already installed so I don't have to worry
>>>> there.
>>>>
>>>> I used a red rust converter, then rubberized top coat on my frame back
>>>> in '00 and had no rust happen, the rust came from the inside out and
>>>> killed it so this time I want to do the insides. The outside has been
>>>> sandblasted, primered and painted.
>>>>
>>>> I have this industrial cold galvanizing spray I used back in '00 on
>>>> things like washers for mount spacers, frame pieces for my custom spare
>>>> and rack mount system, etc., and there isn't a spot of rust on them so
>>>> I figure I am going to soak the 'inside' of the frame with the
>>>> galvanizing. The tails already have a hole cut in the crossmember so I
>>>> can get inside from the back end with a tube on the spray can.
>>>>
>>>> Those tails are a weak spot and crush over time so I think I will box
>>>> both of them internally up as far as I can fit a square pipe, just
>>>> guessing about 18" with a 30 deg angle on the ends and weld through the
>>>> side holes to hold it in place. This will give some good structure for
>>>> the rear shackle hangers, my rack frame and my trailer hitch to hold
>>>> onto.
>>>>
>>>> I already picked up a dual steering shock setup to replace my 'rod in
>>>> an empty tube' posing as a steering stabilizer and got a re-core on my
>>>> rad so it's new.
>>>>
>>>> I have an old antique thumper compressor with an electric motor bolted
>>>> to a 2x10 with a handle on it I am going to see about plumbing up to a
>>>> tank for my air tools because some lowlife scumbag stole my nice new
>>>> one off my front porch a couple weeks ago. I figure if I put together
>>>> a 'ghetto' air tank system with ugly used parts no one will bother
>>>> stealing that...
>>>>
>>>> This is going to be fun...
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>