I might be taking it to a professional.

Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.

"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >