Frame Cracks - How serious?
05-06-2004, 05:19 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
He was 'mechanically challenged' and decided to have his 99 XJ built up for
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
05-06-2004, 05:19 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
He was 'mechanically challenged' and decided to have his 99 XJ built up for
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
05-06-2004, 05:19 PM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
He was 'mechanically challenged' and decided to have his 99 XJ built up for
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
the trail. I've had it for two years and done my SOA, bigger tires, locker,
so those cracks "could" have happened since I bought i, (but I doubt it
since I've never had a strap on it).
Not a big deal to me. I'll just fix it and move on. I got it cheap enough
that I expected to replace the tub, among other things.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:409AAA32.CEAAC34D@***.net...
> Did the previous owner tell you why he sold it?
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> ks wrote:
> >
> > You might be right.... no winch, but two tow hooks are on the front.
> >
> > Here's one of the orignal pics he sent me before I bought it. Notice
the
> > strap on that side.....
> >
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...redbird_05.jpg
> >
> > Kevin
05-06-2004, 11:27 PM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
05-06-2004, 11:27 PM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
05-06-2004, 11:27 PM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
05-06-2004, 11:27 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
much worse.
Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
(.125") would be a good choice.
Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
that wireing loom out of there.
I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
whatever you can get the best job with.
Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
does a nice job.
Cheers.
ks wrote:
> While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read some
> previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill" the
> cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
>
> Pics
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> side, about even with front shock mount)
>
> I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> frame)?
>
>
>
05-07-2004, 10:26 AM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
I might be taking it to a professional.
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
05-07-2004, 10:26 AM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
I might be taking it to a professional.
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
05-07-2004, 10:26 AM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Frame Cracks - How serious?
I might be taking it to a professional.
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
Just fround some frame rot under my rear spring hangers. That is probably
going to be out of my league. So much for "just" doing a tub swap. Looks
like I'm stripping down the frame as well.
"Roy J" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:OkDmc.548$i37.63590@news.uswest.net...
> Jeep has been hit (hit or or hit ee) or yanked hard. Something to
> be concerned with but not a deal breaker by any means. I've seem
> much worse.
>
> Any frame crack needs to have a fishplate (mend) welded over it,
> welding the crack itself is useless. (I mean REALLY USELESS!!!)
> Fishplate should be the same thickness as the base metal, not
> thicker OR thinner. IIRC, your fame is .104" so some 1/8" plate
> (.125") would be a good choice.
>
> Drilling out the end of the cracks is a good practice on castings
> or high alloy frames, I don't think it is really necessary on
> your low carbon, mild steel frame. Won't hurt.
>
> I do think that the welds should NEVER go across the frame, sort
> of like a postage stamp "tear hear" Fishplate welds should
> always go parallel to the frame, preferably right at the edges of
> the bends on the frame. I'll bend that comment a bit when you use
> a diamond shaped fishplate like they use in bridges but I still
> prefer a straight plate welded on the top and bottom edges.
>
> Fishplate should be at least twice as long as it is wide. If the
> frame is 4", the plate should be 8" or more.
>
> On your Crack_02.jpg, I would use two fishplates, one on the
> side, one on the bottom, welded at the edge. I hope you can get
> that wireing loom out of there.
>
> I would rather weld this up with 6011 rod (SMAW) in a stick
> welder rather than a MIG welder. You want some penetration on
> crudy metal, not what a MIG does best. This is my choice, use
> whatever you can get the best job with.
>
> Be sure to do your best at getting clean metal to weld to using a
> grinder or sanding wheel. A 4-1/2" grinder with 40 grit sandpaper
> does a nice job.
>
> Cheers.
>
> ks wrote:
> > While tearing down for my tub swap, I have found two cracks so far. Do
> > these warrant a professional or can I do it successfully. I have read
some
> > previous "frame crack" posts and it sounds like I should "stop-drill"
the
> > cracks, and then use a patch that is welded horizontaly to the frame.
> >
> > Pics
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_01.JPG (just
> > behind front crossmember on pass. side)
> > http://www.geocities.com/co_big_chee...c/crack_02.JPG (pass
> > side, about even with front shock mount)
> >
> > I have a 220 Mig welder, but very little experience using it so far. My
> > neighbor also has a 220 arc welder. Suggestions (short of buying a new
> > frame)?
> >
> >
> >
