SnoMan

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 14:26:05 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:

>SnoMan, I had the fan clutch replaced about four months ago. Yes, I know
>it could be defective, but talk about chasing monkeys, I am not quite ready
>to put another clutch in. You posted a very good article on adjusting the
>fan, but my mechanic indicates that for the labor involved, he would only go
>with another new fan. I am not ready for it, as I see that as doubtful.
>
>When you say the "core" could be blocked, exactly what part do you mean ?
>Are you speaking of the radioator itself ? I am thinking more and more
>that it is the radiator. Perhaps you mean the radiator core, huh?
>
>Can a flow test be done without removing the radiator?
>
>
>--James--
>


First when the engine overheats is the clutch fan engaging? Next on
the blocked core it could be that the external part where air flows
through is blocked with dirt or bugs or the fins are badly smashed
blocking airflow. Internally, you might find a shop to flow test it in
car but not too likely. Feel core of raditor (if possible) and see if
it is evenly heating up. I still stand by my 3 suggestions. because
the symptoms match it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 14:26:05 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:

>SnoMan, I had the fan clutch replaced about four months ago. Yes, I know
>it could be defective, but talk about chasing monkeys, I am not quite ready
>to put another clutch in. You posted a very good article on adjusting the
>fan, but my mechanic indicates that for the labor involved, he would only go
>with another new fan. I am not ready for it, as I see that as doubtful.
>
>When you say the "core" could be blocked, exactly what part do you mean ?
>Are you speaking of the radioator itself ? I am thinking more and more
>that it is the radiator. Perhaps you mean the radiator core, huh?
>
>Can a flow test be done without removing the radiator?
>
>
>--James--
>


First when the engine overheats is the clutch fan engaging? Next on
the blocked core it could be that the external part where air flows
through is blocked with dirt or bugs or the fins are badly smashed
blocking airflow. Internally, you might find a shop to flow test it in
car but not too likely. Feel core of raditor (if possible) and see if
it is evenly heating up. I still stand by my 3 suggestions. because
the symptoms match it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

SnoMan

On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 14:26:05 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:

>SnoMan, I had the fan clutch replaced about four months ago. Yes, I know
>it could be defective, but talk about chasing monkeys, I am not quite ready
>to put another clutch in. You posted a very good article on adjusting the
>fan, but my mechanic indicates that for the labor involved, he would only go
>with another new fan. I am not ready for it, as I see that as doubtful.
>
>When you say the "core" could be blocked, exactly what part do you mean ?
>Are you speaking of the radioator itself ? I am thinking more and more
>that it is the radiator. Perhaps you mean the radiator core, huh?
>
>Can a flow test be done without removing the radiator?
>
>
>--James--
>


First when the engine overheats is the clutch fan engaging? Next on
the blocked core it could be that the external part where air flows
through is blocked with dirt or bugs or the fins are badly smashed
blocking airflow. Internally, you might find a shop to flow test it in
car but not too likely. Feel core of raditor (if possible) and see if
it is evenly heating up. I still stand by my 3 suggestions. because
the symptoms match it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

Mike Romain

If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
working at.

He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
gauge.

Mike

SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 13:22:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Or just plain a bad one.... That happens. I think yours must be
> >opening 'some' or you would get a boil over.
>
> I fully disagree here. He can keep chasing monkeys but I am pretty
> sure it is one of three problems. THe first that the core is blocked
> externally with dirt and bugs limiting air flow through it. The second
> is the clutch fan is bad because contray to popular belief ram air
> will not always cool engine especaily when a big V8 is packed in a
> small compartment. Some seem to think that they never good bad but the
> thermostatic coil on them ages and when it does it retards the
> operation of the fan. (I have posted instruction on how to adjust the
> clutch fan in my forum) When it is 220 or so the fan should be a
> humping. The thrid is the core is blocked internally which can happen
> if proper coolant quality is not maintained. I would check it in that
> order or you can just keep chasing the monkey around and never catch
> it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Mike Romain

If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
working at.

He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
gauge.

Mike

SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 13:22:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Or just plain a bad one.... That happens. I think yours must be
> >opening 'some' or you would get a boil over.
>
> I fully disagree here. He can keep chasing monkeys but I am pretty
> sure it is one of three problems. THe first that the core is blocked
> externally with dirt and bugs limiting air flow through it. The second
> is the clutch fan is bad because contray to popular belief ram air
> will not always cool engine especaily when a big V8 is packed in a
> small compartment. Some seem to think that they never good bad but the
> thermostatic coil on them ages and when it does it retards the
> operation of the fan. (I have posted instruction on how to adjust the
> clutch fan in my forum) When it is 220 or so the fan should be a
> humping. The thrid is the core is blocked internally which can happen
> if proper coolant quality is not maintained. I would check it in that
> order or you can just keep chasing the monkey around and never catch
> it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Mike Romain

If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
working at.

He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
gauge.

Mike

SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 13:22:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Or just plain a bad one.... That happens. I think yours must be
> >opening 'some' or you would get a boil over.
>
> I fully disagree here. He can keep chasing monkeys but I am pretty
> sure it is one of three problems. THe first that the core is blocked
> externally with dirt and bugs limiting air flow through it. The second
> is the clutch fan is bad because contray to popular belief ram air
> will not always cool engine especaily when a big V8 is packed in a
> small compartment. Some seem to think that they never good bad but the
> thermostatic coil on them ages and when it does it retards the
> operation of the fan. (I have posted instruction on how to adjust the
> clutch fan in my forum) When it is 220 or so the fan should be a
> humping. The thrid is the core is blocked internally which can happen
> if proper coolant quality is not maintained. I would check it in that
> order or you can just keep chasing the monkey around and never catch
> it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Mike Romain

If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
working at.

He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
gauge.

Mike

SnoMan wrote:
>
> On Sat, 13 Jan 2007 13:22:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> >Or just plain a bad one.... That happens. I think yours must be
> >opening 'some' or you would get a boil over.
>
> I fully disagree here. He can keep chasing monkeys but I am pretty
> sure it is one of three problems. THe first that the core is blocked
> externally with dirt and bugs limiting air flow through it. The second
> is the clutch fan is bad because contray to popular belief ram air
> will not always cool engine especaily when a big V8 is packed in a
> small compartment. Some seem to think that they never good bad but the
> thermostatic coil on them ages and when it does it retards the
> operation of the fan. (I have posted instruction on how to adjust the
> clutch fan in my forum) When it is 220 or so the fan should be a
> humping. The thrid is the core is blocked internally which can happen
> if proper coolant quality is not maintained. I would check it in that
> order or you can just keep chasing the monkey around and never catch
> it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

dave AKA vwdoc1

Could you be sticking his finger in the wrong area? Had to ask!!
You keep saying 'water' and not 'coolant'.
This is the radiator cap right?

I have known people that add coolant to the engine through the oil cap or
into the washer bottle.

I had to ask since it is hard to believe that your pressure cap allowed you
to take it off safely and the coolant was only warm AFTER you have been
running the engine for awhile getting it up to normal operating temperature.
ODD!!!

You still did not answer my question about the temperature of the radiator
measured at different spots like all four corners!!! You might have an
extended neck on the radiator which might cause that coolant there to not
move around much. Touch the outside of the radiator in the corners AFTER
the engine is at normal operating temperature.

This sounds a little unbelievable to me!!

JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:tpednTmkr4nCizTYnZ2dnUVZ_tqnnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> The place where I was touching was in the water itself. I took the
> pressure
> cap off for the test. The water is just under the cap.
>
> --James--
>
>


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A96A8B.1B2275D7@sympatico.ca...
> If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
> the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
> with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
> working at.
>
> He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> gauge.

dave AKA vwdoc1

Could you be sticking his finger in the wrong area? Had to ask!!
You keep saying 'water' and not 'coolant'.
This is the radiator cap right?

I have known people that add coolant to the engine through the oil cap or
into the washer bottle.

I had to ask since it is hard to believe that your pressure cap allowed you
to take it off safely and the coolant was only warm AFTER you have been
running the engine for awhile getting it up to normal operating temperature.
ODD!!!

You still did not answer my question about the temperature of the radiator
measured at different spots like all four corners!!! You might have an
extended neck on the radiator which might cause that coolant there to not
move around much. Touch the outside of the radiator in the corners AFTER
the engine is at normal operating temperature.

This sounds a little unbelievable to me!!

JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:tpednTmkr4nCizTYnZ2dnUVZ_tqnnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> The place where I was touching was in the water itself. I took the
> pressure
> cap off for the test. The water is just under the cap.
>
> --James--
>
>


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A96A8B.1B2275D7@sympatico.ca...
> If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
> the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
> with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
> working at.
>
> He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> gauge.

dave AKA vwdoc1

Could you be sticking his finger in the wrong area? Had to ask!!
You keep saying 'water' and not 'coolant'.
This is the radiator cap right?

I have known people that add coolant to the engine through the oil cap or
into the washer bottle.

I had to ask since it is hard to believe that your pressure cap allowed you
to take it off safely and the coolant was only warm AFTER you have been
running the engine for awhile getting it up to normal operating temperature.
ODD!!!

You still did not answer my question about the temperature of the radiator
measured at different spots like all four corners!!! You might have an
extended neck on the radiator which might cause that coolant there to not
move around much. Touch the outside of the radiator in the corners AFTER
the engine is at normal operating temperature.

This sounds a little unbelievable to me!!

JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:tpednTmkr4nCizTYnZ2dnUVZ_tqnnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> The place where I was touching was in the water itself. I took the
> pressure
> cap off for the test. The water is just under the cap.
>
> --James--
>
>


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:45A96A8B.1B2275D7@sympatico.ca...
> If something was indeed blocked, he would get boiling fluid pouring out
> the open radiator cap in the test. He has cool non moving fluid only
> with the inside gauge reading above the temp an open thermostat would be
> working at.
>
> He could have no real problems with the rad and a wonky sender for the
> gauge.