Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
01-14-2007, 05:22 PM
#121
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Sun, 14 Jan 2007 12:36:16 -0500, "James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com>
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
> SnoMan, yes, the fan does run atidle, with temp at 205.
They usually do at a idle warm. What happen when the RPM goes up for
1500 RPM or more warm. THe Jeep I had heating problems with 15 years
arond "worked" at a idle too but not at higher RPM's when needed
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
01-14-2007, 09:07 PM
#122
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James,
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
01-14-2007, 09:07 PM
#123
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James,
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
01-14-2007, 09:07 PM
#124
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James,
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
01-14-2007, 09:07 PM
#125
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
James,
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
My money is on a bad water pump, thermostat, or clogged radiator. No
coolant flow in the radiator at idle when warm could only be one of the
three. Pull the upper and lower rad hoses and flush it with a garden hose,
or just pull the radiator and have it cleaned and re-cored. While it's off
replace the water pump, and thermostat (yes, do it again), flush the entire
system and watch your cooling troubles go away.
Hope this helps,
Carl
"James" <jnipperxxx@nospamfdn.com> wrote in message
news:X82dnXCaIdETmTTYnZ2dnUVZ_umlnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>I posted this several weeks ago, and got a lot of thoughtful replies. No
> remedy yet, this is just an update.
>
> Last week, I drove home from vacation, a 500 mile trip. I noticed
> repeatedly that the temp at 65 mph would be in the 205-210 range, but
> five
> minutes after I go up to 75 mph, the temp would increase to around 225.
> I
> did this test over and over, and got the same results.
>
> Someone suggested that to check the (new) thermostat, to take the
> pressure
> cap off when the engine is cold, start the engine, and see if there is
> water
> flow (I assume there should be flow after the thermostat opens up). I
> did
> this test, while the outside temp is 72 degrees. From the first engine
> start, I saw no water flow. None.
>
> I let the engine run for 45 minutes. The gauge went to 205 and stayed
> there. At no time did I see a water flow, even after 45 minutes of
> running
> at idle. I put my finger in the water and it was **warm** but not at
> all
> hot. Just warm. It never got hot.
>
> Should I have seen water flow after the temp went to 205, and the engine
> ran for 45 mins ??
>
>
> Any further comments will be appreciated.
>
>
>
> --James--
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------------------------
>
> This is a V-8, 120 K miles. It usually runs around 200-210
>> degrees. During last six months or so, it will go up the 235 degrees
>> when
>> traveling over 70 mph. It will also do this when going up a medium
>> incline, even at very slow speed.
>>
>> It stays 100% normal at slow speeds, and at idle, such as at a traffic
>> light.
>>
>> Fan clutch was replaced fairly recently, that DID relate to heating some
>> at idle.
>>
>> I am thinking either I need radiator work or a new radiator OR that I
>> may have a bad thermostat. I suppose I could also have a defective
>> water pump at high speeds, but that wouldn't explain why it overheats on
>> medium inclines even at slow speeds.
>>
>> BTW, some folks may say 235 degrees is normal under some circumstances.
>> I
>> can assure you that this is NOT normal, as I have driven this car for six
>> years and I know how it performs.
>>
>> What is most likely culprit? Themostat/Water Pump/Radiator
>>
>> If it is radiator, is it worth it to have it re-rodded, or is it best
>> just
>> to install a new radiator?
>>
>> As a non-mechanic, are these any tests I can do to narrow it down more?
>> (Water pump does not leak).
>>
>>
>> Thanks for any tips !!!
>>
>> --James--
>
>
01-14-2007, 11:15 PM
#126
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
01-14-2007, 11:15 PM
#127
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
01-14-2007, 11:15 PM
#128
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
01-14-2007, 11:15 PM
#129
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
heat in the cabin?
James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you! ;-)
If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
8^o
http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
good luck!
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
01-14-2007, 11:19 PM
#130
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Good point. Do you have heat? If you do, it's the radiator.
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:DdDqh.16038$Gw4.14114@newssvr23.news.prodigy. net...
> Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
> heat in the cabin?
> James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
>
> The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
> problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
> Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you!
> ;-)
>
> If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
> another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
>
> I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
> into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
> crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
> causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
> 8^o
> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
>
> good luck!
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
>
Carl
"dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:DdDqh.16038$Gw4.14114@newssvr23.news.prodigy. net...
> Wouldn't a bad water pump that causes a "NO-FLOW" situation also cause no
> heat in the cabin?
> James are you freezing inside of the Jeep or do you have fantastic heat?
>
> The answer should help you guess if it is the water pump causing your
> problem(s) or the thermostat and/or radiator.
> Whoever installed the thermostat should check your system out for you!
> ;-)
>
> If you are getting good heat inside the Jeep, I guess I would start with
> another thermostat also. Make sure it is a good brand!!
>
> I worked on a vehicle that had a defective oil cooler. This allowed oil
> into the coolant system and everything turned into a very thick paste-like
> crud. It clogged up the radiator hoses, heater core and the radiator
> causing the engine to overheat. I don't think that this is your problem.
> 8^o
> http://vwdoc1.tripod.com/oil_cooler_failure.html
>
> good luck!
> later,
> dave AKA vwdoc1
>
>