Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
<carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>replaced.
Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
in it since shortly after I got it.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
With average maintenance, at 120K a radiator is usually ready to be
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
replaced. Your vehicles are the exception, not the rule.
Carl
"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:lchqq2l4an9jc8qkjaoe0uvkjnfu79hae4@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 15 Jan 2007 20:04:51 -0800, "Carl"
> <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote:
>
>>Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to be
>>replaced.
>
>
> Mileage does not determine need to replace it, it is the quality of
> coolant that has been maintained in it that does. I have a 50 year old
> original raditor in a old tractor that is still clean. I got it off of
> second owner 22 years ago that had always maintianed a higher
> antifreeze to water ratio and I have had it at 70/30 and above since I
> got it. My 89 Burb has never been flushed since I got it new and it is
> still clean as a whistle and even the overflow tank is spotless. It
> has no cooling iusses in any temp or load still and it has had 70/30
> in it since shortly after I got it.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Followup-- 2000 JGC V-8 still overheating
Well a broken water pump (impeller not moving) would create a 'no flow'
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
situation.
Would you not agree?
Also other things could create a 'no flow' situation too, but usually a
broken water pump is more common. :-)
Using a "flow-chart" to determine what is wrong.
(OP reported that the 1. coolant level is full and the 2. water pump
pulley is turning)
3. Going down the chart of things to check you want to know if the coolant
is moving at all which can be determined by no heat in the cabin. (no flow)
4. Then if the coolant is flowing, is it moving too slow? Which can be
determined by different temperatures in different spots. (low flow).
Then you keep going down the "flow-chart" to test other components. At
least that is how I think this problem should be approached instead of
jumping up and installing a new radiator when it may not be the problem.
;-)
And that is true.......and we all agree....... it's not flowing properly!
lol
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:bridneumx40lcDHYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Replace 'no flow' with 'low flow'. If you can't see coolant moving through
> the neck, it's not flowing properly. Bottom line. I had the same exact
> problem with a different car. New radiator, no problem.
>
> OP. Fix this all ready and get back to us.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:du4rh.23640$sR.13137@newssvr29.news.prodigy.n et...
>> Yeah but the OP is experiencing "overheating" ONLY at higher RPMs which
>> could be a restriction and YES AFAIK it could be a collasping lower hose
>> at the higher RPMs. Couldn't it be?
>> And who says it is not flowing. It could be that the flow is low and the
>> heated coolant does not make it to the neck where the OP sticks his
>> finger. 8^) Although the OP says that the coolant/water is warm there.
>> Remember that the engine is not overheating even after idling for over 45
>> minutes. So AFAIK it has to flow through the radiator.
>> That is why I asked if the corners of the radiator got hot and was told
>> those areas were not accessible. :-(
>> --
>> later,
>> dave AKA vwdoc1
>> 88 XJ 4.0 auto
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>
>>> Not the lower hose. If it was the hose it would flow at idle. Try the
>>> thermostat first, but my money is on the radiator.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwdoc1@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:d3Zqh.12483$x67.5388@newssvr17.news.prodigy.n et...
>>>> YEP good now that we know you have inside heat...............
>>>>
>>>> Kinda boils down to:
>>>> Defective Radiator
>>>> Defective Thermostat
>>>> Lower Radiator Hose needing a spring inside to prevent collapsing.
>>>>
>>>> To name a few or it could be all of them or even something else!
>>>> I vote for the thermostat...........buy it from the dealer!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hradnX3TN7B60zHYnZ2dnUVZ_rqhnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>>>> Your radiator is clogged. Try flushing the system, or simply pull the
>>>>> radiator and have it tested and cleaned. At 120K, it probably needs to
>>>>> be replaced.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>
