Coasty

Yep, that is why all ships use zincs on their hulls they go before the ship
hull does.
Coasty

"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:43e39803$0$3698$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant.
> Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered
> borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery
> negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and
> metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in
> another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like
> this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is
> time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out
> "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
>> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
>> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>>
>> Coasty wrote:
>> >
>> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> > Coasty
>
>

Coasty

Yep, that is why all ships use zincs on their hulls they go before the ship
hull does.
Coasty

"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:43e39803$0$3698$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant.
> Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered
> borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery
> negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and
> metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in
> another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like
> this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is
> time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out
> "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
>> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
>> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>>
>> Coasty wrote:
>> >
>> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> > Coasty
>
>

Coasty

Yep, that is why all ships use zincs on their hulls they go before the ship
hull does.
Coasty

"Earle Horton" <nurse--NOSPAM--busters@msn.com> wrote in message
news:43e39803$0$3698$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant.
> Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered
> borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery
> negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and
> metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in
> another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like
> this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is
> time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out
> "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:43E33C60.7AB13C74@***.net...
>> Good idea, you must have a swimming pool, too? I haven't used paper
>> since I didn't have to log the acid or caustic level of my trailer:
>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/kenworth.jpg
>>
>> Coasty wrote:
>> >
>> > Yep every two years and check the PH with some test strips
>> > http://www.acustrip.com/specs/3-wayafhd.html
>> > Coasty
>
>

DougW

Coasty did pass the time by typing:
> No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
> deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
> called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
> remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
> check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.

That and a spool of strip material is real cheap.
Cheaper than a new radiator core. :)

--
DougW

DougW

Coasty did pass the time by typing:
> No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
> deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
> called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
> remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
> check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.

That and a spool of strip material is real cheap.
Cheaper than a new radiator core. :)

--
DougW

DougW

Coasty did pass the time by typing:
> No swimming pool I live by the Chesapeake Bay we used PH strips when I was a
> deck plate engineer in the Coast Guard. I have found that even the 5 yr so
> called long life gets real acidic at two years but the freeze/boil over
> remain good. I also have the HVAC mechanics that work for me use them to
> check the closed loop glychol chiller systems.

That and a spool of strip material is real cheap.
Cheaper than a new radiator core. :)

--
DougW

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Earle,
Good idea, and I have some very sensitive meters to test the idea.
I surely makes sense as electrolysis will quickly eat out freeze plugs
and the thermostat housing when both aluminum and copper are in the
cooling system, without a good coolant.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Earle,
Good idea, and I have some very sensitive meters to test the idea.
I surely makes sense as electrolysis will quickly eat out freeze plugs
and the thermostat housing when both aluminum and copper are in the
cooling system, without a good coolant.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi Earle,
Good idea, and I have some very sensitive meters to test the idea.
I surely makes sense as electrolysis will quickly eat out freeze plugs
and the thermostat housing when both aluminum and copper are in the
cooling system, without a good coolant.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Earle Horton wrote:
>
> There is another method where you check the voltage at the coolant. Usually
> either 0.05 volts or 0.10 volts relative to ground is considered borderline.
> You put your voltmeter on the appropriate scale, touch the battery negative
> terminal with the negative probe, and stick the positive probe in the
> coolant. If there is appreciable voltage, then current is flowing and metal
> is being removed from one place (where you want it) and deposited in another
> place (where you don't want it). J. C. Whitney used to sell (and probably
> still does) a radiator cap with a "sacrificial electrode" in it. The idea
> is that the electrode is a reactive metal that is dissolved before the
> cooling system or engine metals. It is probably better to change the
> coolant as needed, by whatever method, than to rely on something like this.
>
> Of course, chemical companies don't really want you to know when it is time
> to change the fluid, any more than they want you to get maximum use out of
> your motor oil. They are happy with once every two years, 30k miles, or
> whatever interval you use. On the other hand, if you are draining out "bad"
> fluid, then it has already done some damage.
>
> Earle

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

And on all commercial truck engines there'll be an access plate
near the thermostat housing to put in the sacrificial zinc block.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Coasty wrote:
>
> Yep, that is why all ships use zincs on their hulls they go before the ship
> hull does.
> Coasty