Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
differentials.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
differentials.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
differentials.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
differentials.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> transfer case.
>
> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> the backlash is eliminated.
>
> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> the transfer case.
>
> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
>
> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> disengaged you are ready to tow.
>
> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
>
> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
>
> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> case and transmission in neutral and go.
>
> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> is in.
>
> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> you set it.
>
> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> put the transfer case into neutral then.
>
> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
>
> Comments and questions are welcome.
>
> Your mileage may vary.
> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> Cheers, Ed Humphries
> Atlanta, Georgia
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

Bill,

I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
if you still have the front axle disconnect.

Earle

"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
> That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> differentials.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > transfer case.
> >
> > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > the backlash is eliminated.
> >
> > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > the transfer case.
> >
> > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
> >
> > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > disengaged you are ready to tow.
> >
> > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
> >
> > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
> >
> > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > case and transmission in neutral and go.
> >
> > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > is in.
> >
> > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > you set it.
> >
> > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > put the transfer case into neutral then.
> >
> > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
> >
> > Comments and questions are welcome.
> >
> > Your mileage may vary.
> > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > Atlanta, Georgia
> >
>
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

Bill,

I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
if you still have the front axle disconnect.

Earle

"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
> That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> differentials.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > transfer case.
> >
> > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > the backlash is eliminated.
> >
> > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > the transfer case.
> >
> > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
> >
> > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > disengaged you are ready to tow.
> >
> > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
> >
> > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
> >
> > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > case and transmission in neutral and go.
> >
> > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > is in.
> >
> > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > you set it.
> >
> > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > put the transfer case into neutral then.
> >
> > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
> >
> > Comments and questions are welcome.
> >
> > Your mileage may vary.
> > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > Atlanta, Georgia
> >
>
>

Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
 

Bill,

I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times
since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the
test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under
the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the
ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel
if you still have the front axle disconnect.

Earle

"L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net...
> That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
> appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by
> simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't
> free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't
> believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the
> differentials.
> God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
> > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231
> > transfer case.
> >
> > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400
> > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently
> > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true"
> > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission
> > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs
> > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with
> > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle
> > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then
> > the backlash is eliminated.
> >
> > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position
> > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you
> > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to
> > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the
> > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live
> > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up
> > the transfer case.
> >
> > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e.
> > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation)
> > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission
> > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back
> > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and
> > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off.
> >
> > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing
> > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the
> > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral,
> > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you
> > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have
> > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in
> > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is
> > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump
> > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about
> > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is
> > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is
> > disengaged you are ready to tow.
> >
> > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I
> > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD
> > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep
> > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up
> > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very
> > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why.
> >
> > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there
> > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue.
> >
> > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect
> > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine
> > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer
> > case and transmission in neutral and go.
> >
> > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since
> > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it
> > is in.
> >
> > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul
> > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because
> > you set it.
> >
> > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral.
> > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you
> > put the transfer case into neutral then.
> >
> > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer.
> >
> > Comments and questions are welcome.
> >
> > Your mileage may vary.
> > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear.
> > Cheers, Ed Humphries
> > Atlanta, Georgia
> >
>
>