|
Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock
five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 transfer case. Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then the backlash is eliminated. The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up the transfer case. The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is disengaged you are ready to tow. Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer case and transmission in neutral and go. 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it is in. 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because you set it. 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you put the transfer case into neutral then. 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. Comments and questions are welcome. Your mileage may vary. Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. Cheers, Ed Humphries Atlanta, Georgia |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 12:04 pm, edh3...@bellsouth.net wrote:
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia This is good to know. Thanks for posting. Could option 4 cause problems? It seems that a true neutral might leave the internal oil pump disconnected. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 12:04 pm, edh3...@bellsouth.net wrote:
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia This is good to know. Thanks for posting. Could option 4 cause problems? It seems that a true neutral might leave the internal oil pump disconnected. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 12:04 pm, edh3...@bellsouth.net wrote:
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia This is good to know. Thanks for posting. Could option 4 cause problems? It seems that a true neutral might leave the internal oil pump disconnected. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 12:04 pm, edh3...@bellsouth.net wrote:
> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia This is good to know. Thanks for posting. Could option 4 cause problems? It seems that a true neutral might leave the internal oil pump disconnected. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Where do you get this information? I suspect that some or all of it is
false. I can't believe that neutral would lock the axles together, but then again we are dealing with a crappy second rate American manufacturer (this bit is for Stupendous Man). I have always put the transfer case in neutral, transmission in gear, engine running and let out the clutch before flat towing. This lets me know that the transfer case is really disconnected. Then I shut off the engine, leaving the transmission in gear, and have towed several thousand miles in this fashion. I am sure that the center axle disconnect has indeed been disconnected every time, and that the transfer case has been in neutral, because I never noticed any binding, jerking, suspicious noises, difficulty steering or transfer case damage. Next time I do this, it won't hurt to reach underneath and verify that the front drive shaft turns freely of course. If you leave the transmission in neutral, it can be driven by a transfer case in neutral because of friction and oil viscosity. This can lead to a dry bearing condition and transmission mainshaft damage. Always have the transmission in gear or park when flat towing. Earle <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Where do you get this information? I suspect that some or all of it is
false. I can't believe that neutral would lock the axles together, but then again we are dealing with a crappy second rate American manufacturer (this bit is for Stupendous Man). I have always put the transfer case in neutral, transmission in gear, engine running and let out the clutch before flat towing. This lets me know that the transfer case is really disconnected. Then I shut off the engine, leaving the transmission in gear, and have towed several thousand miles in this fashion. I am sure that the center axle disconnect has indeed been disconnected every time, and that the transfer case has been in neutral, because I never noticed any binding, jerking, suspicious noises, difficulty steering or transfer case damage. Next time I do this, it won't hurt to reach underneath and verify that the front drive shaft turns freely of course. If you leave the transmission in neutral, it can be driven by a transfer case in neutral because of friction and oil viscosity. This can lead to a dry bearing condition and transmission mainshaft damage. Always have the transmission in gear or park when flat towing. Earle <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Where do you get this information? I suspect that some or all of it is
false. I can't believe that neutral would lock the axles together, but then again we are dealing with a crappy second rate American manufacturer (this bit is for Stupendous Man). I have always put the transfer case in neutral, transmission in gear, engine running and let out the clutch before flat towing. This lets me know that the transfer case is really disconnected. Then I shut off the engine, leaving the transmission in gear, and have towed several thousand miles in this fashion. I am sure that the center axle disconnect has indeed been disconnected every time, and that the transfer case has been in neutral, because I never noticed any binding, jerking, suspicious noises, difficulty steering or transfer case damage. Next time I do this, it won't hurt to reach underneath and verify that the front drive shaft turns freely of course. If you leave the transmission in neutral, it can be driven by a transfer case in neutral because of friction and oil viscosity. This can lead to a dry bearing condition and transmission mainshaft damage. Always have the transmission in gear or park when flat towing. Earle <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Where do you get this information? I suspect that some or all of it is
false. I can't believe that neutral would lock the axles together, but then again we are dealing with a crappy second rate American manufacturer (this bit is for Stupendous Man). I have always put the transfer case in neutral, transmission in gear, engine running and let out the clutch before flat towing. This lets me know that the transfer case is really disconnected. Then I shut off the engine, leaving the transmission in gear, and have towed several thousand miles in this fashion. I am sure that the center axle disconnect has indeed been disconnected every time, and that the transfer case has been in neutral, because I never noticed any binding, jerking, suspicious noises, difficulty steering or transfer case damage. Next time I do this, it won't hurt to reach underneath and verify that the front drive shaft turns freely of course. If you leave the transmission in neutral, it can be driven by a transfer case in neutral because of friction and oil viscosity. This can lead to a dry bearing condition and transmission mainshaft damage. Always have the transmission in gear or park when flat towing. Earle <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?
<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?
<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?
<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
You read that in the 4 Wheel Parts mag, eh?
<edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the differentials. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the differentials. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the differentials. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would
appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the differentials. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > transfer case. > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > the backlash is eliminated. > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > the transfer case. > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > is in. > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > you set it. > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > Your mileage may vary. > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > Cheers, Ed Humphries > Atlanta, Georgia > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Bill,
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel if you still have the front axle disconnect. Earle "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > Atlanta, Georgia > > > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Bill,
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel if you still have the front axle disconnect. Earle "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > Atlanta, Georgia > > > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Bill,
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel if you still have the front axle disconnect. Earle "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > Atlanta, Georgia > > > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Bill,
I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel if you still have the front axle disconnect. Earle "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > Atlanta, Georgia > > > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle > > "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > > > > > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > > differentials. > > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com... > > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front wheel should be off the ground. There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle > > "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > > > > > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > > differentials. > > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com... > > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front wheel should be off the ground. There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle > > "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > > > > > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > > differentials. > > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com... > > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front wheel should be off the ground. There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 5:35 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle > > "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote in messagenews:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > > > > > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > > differentials. > > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > > mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/ > > > <edh3...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > >news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googleg roups.com... > > > I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock > > > five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 > > > transfer case. > > > > Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 > > > miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently > > > learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" > > > neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission > > > from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs > > > together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with > > > the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle > > > Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then > > > the backlash is eliminated. > > > > The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position > > > it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you > > > start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to > > > Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the > > > outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live > > > instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up > > > the transfer case. > > > > The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. > > > you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) > > > is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission > > > into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back > > > into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and > > > you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. > > > > If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing > > > simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the > > > engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, > > > hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you > > > leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have > > > disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in > > > neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is > > > in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump > > > maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about > > > the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is > > > engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is > > > disengaged you are ready to tow. > > > > Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I > > > typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD > > > disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep > > > prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up > > > to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very > > > easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. > > > > Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there > > > are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. > > > > 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect > > > the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine > > > and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer > > > case and transmission in neutral and go. > > > > 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since > > > you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it > > > is in. > > > > 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul > > > weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because > > > you set it. > > > > 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. > > > You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you > > > put the transfer case into neutral then. > > > > 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. > > > > Comments and questions are welcome. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. > > > Cheers, Ed Humphries > > > Atlanta, Georgia- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front wheel should be off the ground. There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com... > Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com... > Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com... > Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
Thanks.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ "Earle Horton" <apodo@gracioso.usa> wrote in message news:opudncHQOaBakFTYnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@comcast.com... > Bill, > > I think I have towed mine a total of maybe 3,000 miles. I moved a few times > since I bought it. No differentials destroyed yet. I can't perform the > test until the weekend, but I sure will do it. In 2HI, you can reach under > the vehicle and turn the front drive shaft with all four wheels on the > ground. In N it has to be the same way. You don't have to jack up a wheel > if you still have the front axle disconnect. > > Earle |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the OP's idea. Earle "nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... .... > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > wheel should be off the ground. > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the OP's idea. Earle "nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... .... > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > wheel should be off the ground. > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the OP's idea. Earle "nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... .... > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > wheel should be off the ground. > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn
with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the OP's idea. Earle "nrs" <neale_rs@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... .... > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > wheel should be off the ground. > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N. > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 6:39 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn > with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have > the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because > sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to > mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the > newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat > tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, > newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you > never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the > OP's idea. > > Earle > > "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > ... > > > > > > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > > wheel should be off the ground. > > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Makes sense, if they locked together towed TJ's would be trash by now. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 6:39 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn > with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have > the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because > sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to > mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the > newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat > tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, > newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you > never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the > OP's idea. > > Earle > > "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > ... > > > > > > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > > wheel should be off the ground. > > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Makes sense, if they locked together towed TJ's would be trash by now. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 6:39 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn > with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have > the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because > sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to > mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the > newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat > tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, > newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you > never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the > OP's idea. > > Earle > > "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > ... > > > > > > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > > wheel should be off the ground. > > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Makes sense, if they locked together towed TJ's would be trash by now. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
On Feb 6, 6:39 pm, "Earle Horton" <a...@gracioso.usa> wrote:
> It doesn't matter what the cause is. If the front driveshaft won't turn > with the transfer case in neutral, then you have problems. I always have > the engine running when I shift the transfer case into neutral, because > sometimes you have to move the vehicle a little bit to get the gears to > mesh, and because I know about the vacuum disconnect I guess. Note that the > newer models don't have a front axle disconnect, and that you can still flat > tow them if the transfer case has a neutral. I am talking about the TJs, > newer Cherokees, GJs, etc. I am only going to do the check because you > never know about things, not because I believe that there is anything to the > OP's idea. > > Earle > > "nrs" <neale...@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:1170805228.075242.150940@k78g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com... > ... > > > > > > > I think you still need to lift one tire to do the check to know if the > > driveshafts lock together. For instance, if the front axle is still > > connected with the engine off (both front on the ground), then the > > driveshft will not turn with the TC in N. This would make me think > > (falsely) that the driveshafts are locked together. In order to > > eliminate the posibility that the front axle is connected, one front > > wheel should be off the ground. > > > There are really two things to check: 1) does the axle stay connected > > with the engine off, and 2) do the driveshafts lock together in N.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Makes sense, if they locked together towed TJ's would be trash by now. |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
OK, so with my '84 CJ, AMC 20, Dana 300, and NV4500, I should put the t-case
in neutral and put the tranny in a gear. Do I need to disconnect the rear drive shaft? Or, what is the downside of putting locking hubs on the rear? "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock >> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 >> transfer case. >> >> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 >> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently >> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" >> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission >> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs >> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with >> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle >> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then >> the backlash is eliminated. >> >> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position >> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you >> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to >> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the >> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live >> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up >> the transfer case. >> >> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. >> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) >> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission >> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back >> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and >> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. >> >> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing >> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the >> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, >> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you >> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have >> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in >> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is >> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump >> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about >> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is >> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is >> disengaged you are ready to tow. >> >> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I >> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD >> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep >> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up >> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very >> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. >> >> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there >> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. >> >> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect >> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine >> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer >> case and transmission in neutral and go. >> >> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since >> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it >> is in. >> >> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul >> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because >> you set it. >> >> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. >> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you >> put the transfer case into neutral then. >> >> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. >> >> Comments and questions are welcome. >> >> Your mileage may vary. >> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. >> Cheers, Ed Humphries >> Atlanta, Georgia >> > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
OK, so with my '84 CJ, AMC 20, Dana 300, and NV4500, I should put the t-case
in neutral and put the tranny in a gear. Do I need to disconnect the rear drive shaft? Or, what is the downside of putting locking hubs on the rear? "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock >> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 >> transfer case. >> >> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 >> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently >> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" >> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission >> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs >> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with >> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle >> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then >> the backlash is eliminated. >> >> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position >> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you >> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to >> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the >> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live >> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up >> the transfer case. >> >> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. >> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) >> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission >> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back >> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and >> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. >> >> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing >> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the >> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, >> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you >> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have >> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in >> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is >> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump >> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about >> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is >> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is >> disengaged you are ready to tow. >> >> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I >> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD >> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep >> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up >> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very >> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. >> >> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there >> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. >> >> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect >> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine >> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer >> case and transmission in neutral and go. >> >> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since >> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it >> is in. >> >> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul >> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because >> you set it. >> >> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. >> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you >> put the transfer case into neutral then. >> >> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. >> >> Comments and questions are welcome. >> >> Your mileage may vary. >> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. >> Cheers, Ed Humphries >> Atlanta, Georgia >> > > |
Re: Flat Tow Wrangler YJ (Informational - Long)
OK, so with my '84 CJ, AMC 20, Dana 300, and NV4500, I should put the t-case
in neutral and put the tranny in a gear. Do I need to disconnect the rear drive shaft? Or, what is the downside of putting locking hubs on the rear? "L.W. (Bill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message news:52scpuF1o2nm0U1@mid.individual.net... > That's true with the Dana 20 and 300 with only one lever. I would > appreciate it is someone with New Process transfer would confirm this, by > simple putting theirs in neutral and jack up a front wheel, if they don't > free wheeling hubs and see if you can turn the front driveshaft. I don't > believe it's true, because this would quickly destroy one of the > differentials. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/ > > <edh3007@bellsouth.net> wrote in message > news:1170785062.593064.102050@v33g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com... >> I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler YJ with the 2.5L four-cylinder and stock >> five speed manual transmission. I assume it has the standard NP-231 >> transfer case. >> >> Although I have successfully flat-towed my YJ (maximum of about 400 >> miles one-way and then return about a week later), I've recently >> learned that the NP-231 (at least of this era) does not have a "true" >> neutral position. Instead, while it does uncouple the transmission >> from the transfer case, it also couples the front and rear outputs >> together. If the front axle is engaged this causes gear backlash with >> the potential to destroy the transfer case. If the Center Axle >> Disconnect (CAD) on the front axle is disconnected (disengaged?), then >> the backlash is eliminated. >> >> The problem is that the vacuum operated CAD stays in the last position >> it was put in. If you are preparing your YJ for flat towing and you >> start the engine, the moment you shift the transfer case from 2WD to >> Neutral the vacuum CAD engages the front axle. There you are with the >> outputs of the transfer case locked together and the front axle live >> instead of free-wheeling. Leaving you with the potential of blowing up >> the transfer case. >> >> The standard way to disengage the CAD under normal conditions (i.e. >> you've been in 4WD and are now ready to resume normal 2WD operation) >> is to place the transfer case into 2WD and then put the transmission >> into reverse and back up several feet. This puts the front axle back >> into free-wheeling mode (assuming everything is working properly), and >> you can put the transmission into normal gear and drive off. >> >> If you know the CAD is in this state then you can prepare for towing >> simply by putting the transfer case into neutral without starting the >> engine (no vacuum). Go ahead and put the transmission into neutral, >> hook up to your tow vehicle and go. Some people recommend that you >> leave the transmission in gear while towing. Since you have >> disconnected the transmission when you put the transfer case in >> neutral, this should not be necessary. Further, if the transmission is >> in gear and the transfer case is accidently engaged (by a severe bump >> maybe?) there will be bad consequences. You don't have to worry about >> the transfer case lubrication because the rear output (which is >> engaged) also drives the internal oil pump. As long as the CAD is >> disengaged you are ready to tow. >> >> Apparently when I've towed my YJ I been fortunate in that a)I >> typically back in to park, therefore I've left the jeep with the CAD >> disengaged and b)I normally don't have any reason to start the jeep >> prior to putting the transfer case into neutral before hooking it up >> to be towed. Since I didn't understand what I was doing, I could very >> easily have destroyed my transfer case without knowing why. >> >> Although I am comfortable with this, knowing how things work, there >> are alternatives I discovered as I researched this issue. >> >> 1)Assuming that the CAD is already disengaged, you can just disconnect >> the vacuum line from the CAD box. You'd be fine to start your engine >> and move the jeep to the towing vehicle, hook up, put the transfer >> case and transmission in neutral and go. >> >> 2)Install and use a Posi-Lock device instead of the vacuum CAD. Since >> you control the front axle lock by cable, you should know the state it >> is in. >> >> 3)Install and use external locking hubs. Not pleasant to use in foul >> weather, but again you always know the state of the front axle because >> you set it. >> >> 4)Install a transfer case conversion that gives you a true neutral. >> You'd never have to worry about the state of the front axle when you >> put the transfer case into neutral then. >> >> 5)Finally, of course, you can always tow your jeep on a trailer. >> >> Comments and questions are welcome. >> >> Your mileage may vary. >> Vehicles in mirror are closer than they appear. >> Cheers, Ed Humphries >> Atlanta, Georgia >> > > |
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