Finally fixing it
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
Mike Romain wrote:
> I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> light do me...
>
> Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> mess up the space.
>
> If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> some. That might open up the space for you.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>> bugger for sure."
>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>
>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>
>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>bugger for sure.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>
>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
Silicone.
Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
Mike
Jim85CJ wrote:
>
> I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
> to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
> what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
> just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
> the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
> label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
> tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>
> Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
> > and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
> > stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
> > light do me...
> >
> > Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
> > mess up the space.
> >
> > If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
> > with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
> > some. That might open up the space for you.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Jim85CJ wrote:
> >
> >>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >> bugger for sure."
> >>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
> >> I'll try 1/4"...
> >>
> >>Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
> >>>
> >>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
> >>>
> >>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
> >>>bugger for sure.
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>
> >>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
> >>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
> >>>>sort of trick to it?
> >>>>
> >>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
> >>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
> >>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
> >>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
> >>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
> >>>>>
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got the "ultra" so I'm good there. At this point I want to run it
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got the "ultra" so I'm good there. At this point I want to run it
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Finally fixing it
I got the "ultra" so I'm good there. At this point I want to run it
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>
stock(ish) so no nutter right now (The only real issue I have with the
carb would not be fixed by the nutter). Thanks for all your help. I'm
cleaning the valve cover (plastic) tonight and then I re-assemble
tomorrow. I have about a 2 hour window while my kid naps :-).
Mike Romain wrote:
> Are you still running with the computer in the loop?
>
> 99% of the vacuum lines can be tossed when the computer is gone.
>
> It still can pass emissions with low numbers if tuned correctly. You
> either learn how or find an old time mechanic that remembers how to set
> up a carb. It's not hard to learn.
>
> Oh, I like acetone for the final clean before the RTV. You also have to
> have the 'ultra' if permatex RTV. This is called 'sensor safe' RTV
> Silicone.
>
> Regular silicone will instantly kill your O2 sensor, no matter where you
> use it on the vehicle. If the computer is gone with the nutter bypass,
> then no worries and you can use the cheap silicone.
>
> Mike
>
> Jim85CJ wrote:
>
>>I got it off. Went to sears and got a 1/4" socket set. Tonight I get
>>to remove old RTV. There was no gasket used the last time. And BTW,
>>what a PITA this has been!!! There are vacuum hoses, tubes, wires and
>>just about anything else you can think of that runs across the top of
>>the valve cover. Took me forever just to dig down to the damn thing and
>>label stuff. The good thing is that I've identified a bunch of brittle
>>tubes/hoses that I have good access to!
>>
>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I have 'Really' long arms and hands (6'6" from finger tip to finger tip)
>>>and am used to working by feel. Folks are always offering me lights and
>>>stuff, and I say, well, 'I' can't see my hands, so what good will a
>>>light do me...
>>>
>>>Do you have a lowered t-case or something like that? That will for sure
>>>mess up the space.
>>>
>>>If you are really desperate, you could remove one front engine mount
>>>with a jack under the oil pan and drop the front of the engine down
>>>some. That might open up the space for you.
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>> bugger for sure."
>>>>Good lord. I can barely feel the bolt and you can get a wrench on it???
>>>> I'll try 1/4"...
>>>>
>>>>Mike Romain wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You might get a bit of space if you jack up on the t-case tail.
>>>>>
>>>>>Otherwise a small 1/4" drive socket with a universal joint will get it.
>>>>>
>>>>>I have long fingers and can get a box end wrench on that bolt. It's a
>>>>>bugger for sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>
>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>OK, how do I get at the bolt that is closest to the firewall? I can't
>>>>>>get a wrench or socket onto it (too close to firewall). Is there some
>>>>>>sort of trick to it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Jim85CJ wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I'm finally going to attempt to fix my leaky valve cover on my 85 CJ7
>>>>>>>258. From what I've gathered here I should get a new cork gasket and
>>>>>>>sandwich it between layers of RTV. Couple of questions: What should I
>>>>>>>use to clean the surfaces that will get the RTV? Is there any brand or
>>>>>>>type of RTV that is best for this or is it all the same?
>>>>>>>