Re: Re: engine sealing
 

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>>and they work fine.
>
>
> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.


The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
alternator is still going strong.

Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
person that is asking the questions.





Old military
> trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
> inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
> its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
> Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
> get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
> to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
> area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
> dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
> suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
> There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
> fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
> water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
> the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
> contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
> caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
> connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
> were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
> damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
> into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
> removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
> the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
> long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
> modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
> worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
> reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Re: Re: engine sealing
 

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>>and they work fine.
>
>
> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.


The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
alternator is still going strong.

Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
person that is asking the questions.





Old military
> trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
> inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
> its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
> Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
> get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
> to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
> area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
> dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
> suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
> There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
> fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
> water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
> the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
> contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
> caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
> connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
> were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
> damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
> into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
> removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
> the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
> long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
> modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
> worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
> reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Re: Re: engine sealing
 

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>>and they work fine.
>
>
> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.


The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
alternator is still going strong.

Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
person that is asking the questions.





Old military
> trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
> inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
> its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
> Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
> get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
> to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
> area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
> dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
> suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
> There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
> fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
> water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
> the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
> contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
> caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
> connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
> were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
> damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
> into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
> removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
> the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
> long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
> modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
> worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
> reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Re: engine sealing
 

SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>> runs even.
>
>
> Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
> someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
> that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
> reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
> practices.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you mental midget, you have already proven yourself an insanely
stupid liar and was told all you would get back from me was abuse if you
continue to stalk my posts.

We drive our Jeeps off road 'AND' on the highway around here unlike you
who's J10 snowplow has only ever seen a parking lot and is so decrepit
it can't spin it's tires in reverse apparently.

This means we have to clean our Jeeps, unwind 4 low often when terrain
changes suddenly AND we know how to 'shift on the fly' into 4 high on
the highway, unlike you who oils his under body and 'always' stops in a
snowstorm on the highway to shift gears.

We hose off our engine bays and under body to get the mud out. We spray
the mud out of our alternators and off our batteries, we hose down the
'inside' of our Jeeps, we get together and take apart our starters every
couple years to clean the mud out of them, we have to remove our hubs
and clean the mud out and repack them sometimes 3 time a season AND we
know it's safe to drop it into 4 high at 55 mph when a snow squall hits
on the way home from the pits, let alone to give it a little goose in
reverse to unwind a drivetrain!

So once again I will say Screw off!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>> runs even.
>
>
> Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
> someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
> that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
> reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
> practices.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you mental midget, you have already proven yourself an insanely
stupid liar and was told all you would get back from me was abuse if you
continue to stalk my posts.

We drive our Jeeps off road 'AND' on the highway around here unlike you
who's J10 snowplow has only ever seen a parking lot and is so decrepit
it can't spin it's tires in reverse apparently.

This means we have to clean our Jeeps, unwind 4 low often when terrain
changes suddenly AND we know how to 'shift on the fly' into 4 high on
the highway, unlike you who oils his under body and 'always' stops in a
snowstorm on the highway to shift gears.

We hose off our engine bays and under body to get the mud out. We spray
the mud out of our alternators and off our batteries, we hose down the
'inside' of our Jeeps, we get together and take apart our starters every
couple years to clean the mud out of them, we have to remove our hubs
and clean the mud out and repack them sometimes 3 time a season AND we
know it's safe to drop it into 4 high at 55 mph when a snow squall hits
on the way home from the pits, let alone to give it a little goose in
reverse to unwind a drivetrain!

So once again I will say Screw off!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>> runs even.
>
>
> Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
> someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
> that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
> reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
> practices.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you mental midget, you have already proven yourself an insanely
stupid liar and was told all you would get back from me was abuse if you
continue to stalk my posts.

We drive our Jeeps off road 'AND' on the highway around here unlike you
who's J10 snowplow has only ever seen a parking lot and is so decrepit
it can't spin it's tires in reverse apparently.

This means we have to clean our Jeeps, unwind 4 low often when terrain
changes suddenly AND we know how to 'shift on the fly' into 4 high on
the highway, unlike you who oils his under body and 'always' stops in a
snowstorm on the highway to shift gears.

We hose off our engine bays and under body to get the mud out. We spray
the mud out of our alternators and off our batteries, we hose down the
'inside' of our Jeeps, we get together and take apart our starters every
couple years to clean the mud out of them, we have to remove our hubs
and clean the mud out and repack them sometimes 3 time a season AND we
know it's safe to drop it into 4 high at 55 mph when a snow squall hits
on the way home from the pits, let alone to give it a little goose in
reverse to unwind a drivetrain!

So once again I will say Screw off!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>> runs even.
>
>
> Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
> someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
> that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
> reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
> practices.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com

Listen you mental midget, you have already proven yourself an insanely
stupid liar and was told all you would get back from me was abuse if you
continue to stalk my posts.

We drive our Jeeps off road 'AND' on the highway around here unlike you
who's J10 snowplow has only ever seen a parking lot and is so decrepit
it can't spin it's tires in reverse apparently.

This means we have to clean our Jeeps, unwind 4 low often when terrain
changes suddenly AND we know how to 'shift on the fly' into 4 high on
the highway, unlike you who oils his under body and 'always' stops in a
snowstorm on the highway to shift gears.

We hose off our engine bays and under body to get the mud out. We spray
the mud out of our alternators and off our batteries, we hose down the
'inside' of our Jeeps, we get together and take apart our starters every
couple years to clean the mud out of them, we have to remove our hubs
and clean the mud out and repack them sometimes 3 time a season AND we
know it's safe to drop it into 4 high at 55 mph when a snow squall hits
on the way home from the pits, let alone to give it a little goose in
reverse to unwind a drivetrain!

So once again I will say Screw off!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
>> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>> alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular
>>> basis,
>>> and they work fine.
>>
>>
>> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.
>
>
> The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
> mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
> alternator is still going strong.
>
> Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
> person that is asking the questions.
>
>

Yup, real slow. I have passed the 5 year warranty on both my starter
and alternator and mine also goes swimming lots!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
>> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>> alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular
>>> basis,
>>> and they work fine.
>>
>>
>> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.
>
>
> The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
> mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
> alternator is still going strong.
>
> Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
> person that is asking the questions.
>
>

Yup, real slow. I have passed the 5 year warranty on both my starter
and alternator and mine also goes swimming lots!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: engine sealing
 

Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> "SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
>> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>> alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular
>>> basis,
>>> and they work fine.
>>
>>
>> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.
>
>
> The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
> mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
> alternator is still going strong.
>
> Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
> person that is asking the questions.
>
>

Yup, real slow. I have passed the 5 year warranty on both my starter
and alternator and mine also goes swimming lots!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)