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- - engine sealing (https://www.jeepscanada.com/jeep-mailing-list-32/engine-sealing-45485/)

Re: engine sealing

afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no
> water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were
> like that but forgot how it was done.
> thanks Frank
>

The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin
submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a
serious pain in the butt.

Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed
them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can
safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over
the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake.

The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off
before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack...

The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the
starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
runs even.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Re: Re: engine sealing

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>runs even.

Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
practices.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com

Re: Re: engine sealing

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:oqhp235fl6i89jih79v84iehu0fdrt30t2@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:42:39 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> I regularly hose out my alternator after mud
>>runs even.
>
>
> Spoken like a tru shade tree mech. No surprize though coming from
> someone that says the best when to releive stress and bind on a Tcase
> that does not want to shift out of 4x4 drive is to "spin the tires in
> reverse" Given his logic you need to temper is suggestions for proper
> practices.

Hosing the mud out of the alternator is a much better practice than leaving
it in.

Re: Re: engine sealing

"SnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:evbp23t94jk05cispapeqkf851q7gheo2m@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
> <crwlr@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and
>>alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis,
>>and they work fine.
>
>
> The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life.

The clock is ticking very slowly. When I was driving my Jeep regularly,
mostly offroading, I took it swimming on several occasions and the
alternator is still going strong.

Your logic is flawed, and you haven't a clue about how to reply to the
person that is asking the questions.

Old military
> trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of
> inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of
> its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well.
> Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can
> get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like
> to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab
> area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a
> dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps
> suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water.
> There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with
> fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in
> water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in
> the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water
> contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the
> caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire
> connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter
> were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit
> damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked
> into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was
> removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps
> the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a
> long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A
> modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery
> worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase
> reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com