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Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just try to keep it from corroding after a swim. -- Stupendous Man Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice |
Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just try to keep it from corroding after a swim. -- Stupendous Man Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice |
Re: engine sealing
>I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank It was on the old DUKW, and perhaps the amphibious jeep, but most of us just try to keep it from corroding after a swim. -- Stupendous Man Defender of Liberty, Advocate of Justice |
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote: >I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and >alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis, >and they work fine. The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well. Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water. There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote: >I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and >alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis, >and they work fine. The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well. Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water. There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote: >I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and >alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis, >and they work fine. The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well. Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water. There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: engine sealing
On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 03:10:53 GMT, "Jeff Strickland"
<crwlr@verizon.net> wrote: >I don't know of any engine that is sealed enough to keep the starter and >alternator dry. I submerge these components in my CJ5 on a regular basis, >and they work fine. The clock is ticking because each dunk shortens its life. Old military trucks used to use closed frame generators to keep water out of inside. It would be possible to waterproof starter by sealing all of its seams with silicone and coating the terminal area as well. Furthermore you want to waterproof the bell housing because water can get in there and into starter. Another tip on bell housing if you like to run in water a lot. After you seal it, install a vent for it in cab area because air in the bellhousing is heated up and when you take a dip it cools it rapidily and cause a vacum as air contracts to helps suck water in. By sealing and venting it, it will not pick up water. There will be those that say no need to worry but you are playing with fires if you like to swim a lot. Also it is SOP that if you run in water a lot that you locate all of the vents for drive train parts in the cab so water is not injested in them as the cool with water contact. Back in the "old day" we would seal distibutors and coat the caps and wiring with hair spray which would seal plug wire connections. Silicone spray should work well for this too. Starter were sealed and the fan belt was removed in severe fording to limit damage to alternator and revent fan from spray water or being sucked into core in close clearance issues. (alternator flied plug was removed too) With older 4x4's with carbs and engine driven fuel pumps the electric draw on on system was very low and you could drive for a long time on just a battery especaily with conventional ignition. A modern 4x4 has a lot higher electrical demand and strains battery worse and you should consider adding a second battery to increase reserve time if your alternator fails after a swim in the wilds. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank > The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a serious pain in the butt. Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake. The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack... The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud runs even. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank > The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a serious pain in the butt. Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake. The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack... The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud runs even. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: engine sealing
afapowell28@sympatico.ca wrote:
> I would like to know how the engine compartment is sealed so as to no > water in around the starter or Alt.,I know the old army jeeps were > like that but forgot how it was done. > thanks Frank > The only 'sealed' 'jeep' I have ever seen was a military Austin submersible. It had tubes for the plug wires even. Working on it was a serious pain in the butt. Other than that I took every plug and socket apart on mine and stuffed them with dielectric grease because I take her swimming lots. I can safely get across 42" of standing water which makes a bow wave up over the hood. Any deeper and I would need a snorkel on the air intake. The big thing to watch for is the lights! You have to cool them off before crossing water or they have a tendency to crack... The alternator might not like being under water for too long, but the starter doesn't care much. I regularly hose out my alternator after mud runs even. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
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