Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey deposits
in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once, showed
me how bad it could be.

My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
than petroleum products.

A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
> ambrin did pass the time by typing:
>> I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
>>
>> My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
>>
>> I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
>>
>> Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
>
> Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
> and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
> synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
> it's about dead even.
>
> The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
> climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

As the link Bill posted shows, "synthetics" are petroleum products, just
refined differently. The gooey deposits you are talking about are not
caused by Quaker State. They are caused by too many short trips, without
allowing the engine to warm up. This allows water to accumulate inside the
engine. It mixes with heavier compounds in the oil, yielding the waxy goo
you saw. Maybe, a purer oil would have less of a tendency to form this,
maybe not. The only evidence you have that synthetics are purer, is
manufacturer's claims.

If you "drive a lot", you probably don't need a synthetic. Each time your
warm up your engine fully, you will cook off the water that is the main
source of these kinds of problems. There is lots of misinformation out
there. You can waste a lot of money if you believe it.

Earle

"ibuildthings" <hopespa-m_me-not888@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:pbednTG4PKqnGGfenZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey
deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once,
showed
> me how bad it could be.
>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.
>
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
> > ambrin did pass the time by typing:
> >> I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
> >>
> >> My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
> >>
> >> I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
> >>
> >> Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
> >
> > Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
> > and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
> > synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
> > it's about dead even.
> >
> > The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
> > climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
>
>


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*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

As the link Bill posted shows, "synthetics" are petroleum products, just
refined differently. The gooey deposits you are talking about are not
caused by Quaker State. They are caused by too many short trips, without
allowing the engine to warm up. This allows water to accumulate inside the
engine. It mixes with heavier compounds in the oil, yielding the waxy goo
you saw. Maybe, a purer oil would have less of a tendency to form this,
maybe not. The only evidence you have that synthetics are purer, is
manufacturer's claims.

If you "drive a lot", you probably don't need a synthetic. Each time your
warm up your engine fully, you will cook off the water that is the main
source of these kinds of problems. There is lots of misinformation out
there. You can waste a lot of money if you believe it.

Earle

"ibuildthings" <hopespa-m_me-not888@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:pbednTG4PKqnGGfenZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey
deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once,
showed
> me how bad it could be.
>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.
>
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
> > ambrin did pass the time by typing:
> >> I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
> >>
> >> My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
> >>
> >> I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
> >>
> >> Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
> >
> > Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
> > and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
> > synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
> > it's about dead even.
> >
> > The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
> > climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
>
>


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

As the link Bill posted shows, "synthetics" are petroleum products, just
refined differently. The gooey deposits you are talking about are not
caused by Quaker State. They are caused by too many short trips, without
allowing the engine to warm up. This allows water to accumulate inside the
engine. It mixes with heavier compounds in the oil, yielding the waxy goo
you saw. Maybe, a purer oil would have less of a tendency to form this,
maybe not. The only evidence you have that synthetics are purer, is
manufacturer's claims.

If you "drive a lot", you probably don't need a synthetic. Each time your
warm up your engine fully, you will cook off the water that is the main
source of these kinds of problems. There is lots of misinformation out
there. You can waste a lot of money if you believe it.

Earle

"ibuildthings" <hopespa-m_me-not888@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:pbednTG4PKqnGGfenZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey
deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once,
showed
> me how bad it could be.
>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.
>
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
> > ambrin did pass the time by typing:
> >> I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
> >>
> >> My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
> >>
> >> I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
> >>
> >> Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
> >
> > Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
> > and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
> > synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
> > it's about dead even.
> >
> > The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
> > climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
>
>


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

As the link Bill posted shows, "synthetics" are petroleum products, just
refined differently. The gooey deposits you are talking about are not
caused by Quaker State. They are caused by too many short trips, without
allowing the engine to warm up. This allows water to accumulate inside the
engine. It mixes with heavier compounds in the oil, yielding the waxy goo
you saw. Maybe, a purer oil would have less of a tendency to form this,
maybe not. The only evidence you have that synthetics are purer, is
manufacturer's claims.

If you "drive a lot", you probably don't need a synthetic. Each time your
warm up your engine fully, you will cook off the water that is the main
source of these kinds of problems. There is lots of misinformation out
there. You can waste a lot of money if you believe it.

Earle

"ibuildthings" <hopespa-m_me-not888@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:pbednTG4PKqnGGfenZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@comcast.com. ..
> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey
deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once,
showed
> me how bad it could be.
>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.
>
>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
> > ambrin did pass the time by typing:
> >> I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
> >>
> >> My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
> >>
> >> I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
> >>
> >> Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
> >
> > Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
> > and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
> > synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
> > it's about dead even.
> >
> > The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
> > climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
> >
> > --
> > DougW
> >
>
>


*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

 

ibuildthings proclaimed:

> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once, showed
> me how bad it could be.

Fly ash? Not overly likely.

The issue of engine deposits and their cause tends to vary a lot
depending on what they look like and feel like. The folklore was that
the pennsylvania oil stocks would all varnish your engine worse than the
texas stocks.

I've ran engines for over 250K miles on Quaker and there wasn't a drop
of sludge anywhere in the tear down. Granted I actually changed it
every now and then...and I did run them under what would be considered
pretty abusive high and low temperature conditions year round. The
engines ranged from a TR spitfire, MGB, TR4, Chev rat motor, turbo
Corsa, Porsche, Datsun 2000, Volvo etc. At one point or another all of
those were rebuilt as hop ups.


>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.

They just hold their viscosity better under more conditions without the
use of viscosity improvers that tend to wear out quicker in dino oil.
Other than friction reduction and cold and high temperature performance,
all of that is moot if you change your oil at 3-5K miles.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.

No problem, neither does he. He may be a good mechanic, but on the
subject of oil, pretty much just superstition.

>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
>
>>ambrin did pass the time by typing:
>>
>>>I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
>>>
>>>My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
>>>
>>>I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
>>>
>>>Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
>>
>>Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
>>and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
>>synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
>>it's about dead even.
>>
>>The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
>>climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
>>
>>--
>>DougW
>>
>
>
>

 

ibuildthings proclaimed:

> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once, showed
> me how bad it could be.

Fly ash? Not overly likely.

The issue of engine deposits and their cause tends to vary a lot
depending on what they look like and feel like. The folklore was that
the pennsylvania oil stocks would all varnish your engine worse than the
texas stocks.

I've ran engines for over 250K miles on Quaker and there wasn't a drop
of sludge anywhere in the tear down. Granted I actually changed it
every now and then...and I did run them under what would be considered
pretty abusive high and low temperature conditions year round. The
engines ranged from a TR spitfire, MGB, TR4, Chev rat motor, turbo
Corsa, Porsche, Datsun 2000, Volvo etc. At one point or another all of
those were rebuilt as hop ups.


>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.

They just hold their viscosity better under more conditions without the
use of viscosity improvers that tend to wear out quicker in dino oil.
Other than friction reduction and cold and high temperature performance,
all of that is moot if you change your oil at 3-5K miles.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.

No problem, neither does he. He may be a good mechanic, but on the
subject of oil, pretty much just superstition.

>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
>
>>ambrin did pass the time by typing:
>>
>>>I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
>>>
>>>My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
>>>
>>>I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
>>>
>>>Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
>>
>>Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
>>and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
>>synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
>>it's about dead even.
>>
>>The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
>>climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
>>
>>--
>>DougW
>>
>
>
>

 

ibuildthings proclaimed:

> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once, showed
> me how bad it could be.

Fly ash? Not overly likely.

The issue of engine deposits and their cause tends to vary a lot
depending on what they look like and feel like. The folklore was that
the pennsylvania oil stocks would all varnish your engine worse than the
texas stocks.

I've ran engines for over 250K miles on Quaker and there wasn't a drop
of sludge anywhere in the tear down. Granted I actually changed it
every now and then...and I did run them under what would be considered
pretty abusive high and low temperature conditions year round. The
engines ranged from a TR spitfire, MGB, TR4, Chev rat motor, turbo
Corsa, Porsche, Datsun 2000, Volvo etc. At one point or another all of
those were rebuilt as hop ups.


>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.

They just hold their viscosity better under more conditions without the
use of viscosity improvers that tend to wear out quicker in dino oil.
Other than friction reduction and cold and high temperature performance,
all of that is moot if you change your oil at 3-5K miles.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.

No problem, neither does he. He may be a good mechanic, but on the
subject of oil, pretty much just superstition.

>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
>
>>ambrin did pass the time by typing:
>>
>>>I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
>>>
>>>My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
>>>
>>>I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
>>>
>>>Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
>>
>>Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
>>and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
>>synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
>>it's about dead even.
>>
>>The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
>>climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
>>
>>--
>>DougW
>>
>
>
>

 

ibuildthings proclaimed:

> Don't use Quaker State. It is full of fly ash, which leaves gooey deposits
> in the engine. A mechanic friend took one apart in front of me once, showed
> me how bad it could be.

Fly ash? Not overly likely.

The issue of engine deposits and their cause tends to vary a lot
depending on what they look like and feel like. The folklore was that
the pennsylvania oil stocks would all varnish your engine worse than the
texas stocks.

I've ran engines for over 250K miles on Quaker and there wasn't a drop
of sludge anywhere in the tear down. Granted I actually changed it
every now and then...and I did run them under what would be considered
pretty abusive high and low temperature conditions year round. The
engines ranged from a TR spitfire, MGB, TR4, Chev rat motor, turbo
Corsa, Porsche, Datsun 2000, Volvo etc. At one point or another all of
those were rebuilt as hop ups.


>
> My opinion is, use a synthetic, if you are going to drive a lot. They are
> more expensive, but they are better, more reliable and uniform viscosity
> than petroleum products.

They just hold their viscosity better under more conditions without the
use of viscosity improvers that tend to wear out quicker in dino oil.
Other than friction reduction and cold and high temperature performance,
all of that is moot if you change your oil at 3-5K miles.
>
> A different mechanic friend told me that one should not go back and forth
> between synthetic and regular. It will make your engine an oil burner. I
> don't understand why, but he is a good and experienced mechanic.

No problem, neither does he. He may be a good mechanic, but on the
subject of oil, pretty much just superstition.

>
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:kt6Kf.5863$Tf3.2600@dukeread09...
>
>>ambrin did pass the time by typing:
>>
>>>I've always used Quaker State oil in my gasoline engines.
>>>
>>>My 97 TJ 2.5L 5spd will use 10w-30 year round, or so the books say.
>>>
>>>I know that some folks here have used synthetic engine oil.
>>>
>>>Any recommendations/advice as to benefits of synthetics?
>>
>>Benefits... dunno. I've tried everything from synthetic/mix/dino
>>and noticed exactly nothing. Regular changes are the key. With
>>synthetics you can stretch things a bit longer. Cost-wise I think
>>it's about dead even.
>>
>>The only benefit to the pure synthetic was when I go to higher/colder
>>climates. It seems to run better than dinosludge does. :)
>>
>>--
>>DougW
>>
>
>
>