Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Herb Leong proclaimed:
>
>> In article <449af419$0$65451$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
>> Pond Scum <jhue@sonic.net> wrote:
>> #
>> #Anyone know what the most common fix for engine code 41 is ('93 ZJ)? My
>> #alternator is not putting out any output. Is it typically more than just
>> #replacing the alternator? I'm trying to get this vehicle running so I can
>> #give it away to a relative, so I'm hoping it doesn't turn out to need
>> #anything expensive.
>> #
>> Is this the original alternator?
>
> Dunno about the 93 but on the later ZJ, the voltage regulator is not in
> the alternator, it is the engine control computer.

On the 93 the regulator is in the computer. Grounding causes the alternator
to charge the battery, but you have to be very attentive not to put out over
16 volts or you will fry things.

> IF your 93 is the same as the 95, the way the PCM controls the
> alternator voltage is by applying and removing a ground to one of the
> fields.

Yep. 93-95 are all the same setup. 96-99 is slightly different but still
used the computer.

Code 41 is "an open or shorted connection was detected
in the generator field control circuit"

(always disconnect the battery when working with the alternator or computer)

I'd check the wire first.
The alternator output terminal has battery voltage on it at all times.

on the back is a 20 gauge, dark green wire. This is the regulator
wire that runs to the computer. (box on the firewall behind the
overflow bottle)

This could be a dirty connector on the computer. Bit of a pain
to deal with. You have to take the overflow bottle out, then remove
the plug, take the computer off, clean the whole thing with contact
cleaner (that is safe for plastic). Put some dilectric (sparkplug)
grease on the connector, and reassemble. Just don't crank too tight
and don't use the bolt in the connector to suck it on. That will crack
the computer. just push the connector on, hand tighten the bolt,
press the connector again..etc..

Having a computer fault is low on the list, but given the cost of
both part it may well be worth it to have a dealer check it out.

Some stores will check alternators, but you have to remove it and
bring it in.

--
DougW

 

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Herb Leong proclaimed:
>
>> In article <449af419$0$65451$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
>> Pond Scum <jhue@sonic.net> wrote:
>> #
>> #Anyone know what the most common fix for engine code 41 is ('93 ZJ)? My
>> #alternator is not putting out any output. Is it typically more than just
>> #replacing the alternator? I'm trying to get this vehicle running so I can
>> #give it away to a relative, so I'm hoping it doesn't turn out to need
>> #anything expensive.
>> #
>> Is this the original alternator?
>
> Dunno about the 93 but on the later ZJ, the voltage regulator is not in
> the alternator, it is the engine control computer.

On the 93 the regulator is in the computer. Grounding causes the alternator
to charge the battery, but you have to be very attentive not to put out over
16 volts or you will fry things.

> IF your 93 is the same as the 95, the way the PCM controls the
> alternator voltage is by applying and removing a ground to one of the
> fields.

Yep. 93-95 are all the same setup. 96-99 is slightly different but still
used the computer.

Code 41 is "an open or shorted connection was detected
in the generator field control circuit"

(always disconnect the battery when working with the alternator or computer)

I'd check the wire first.
The alternator output terminal has battery voltage on it at all times.

on the back is a 20 gauge, dark green wire. This is the regulator
wire that runs to the computer. (box on the firewall behind the
overflow bottle)

This could be a dirty connector on the computer. Bit of a pain
to deal with. You have to take the overflow bottle out, then remove
the plug, take the computer off, clean the whole thing with contact
cleaner (that is safe for plastic). Put some dilectric (sparkplug)
grease on the connector, and reassemble. Just don't crank too tight
and don't use the bolt in the connector to suck it on. That will crack
the computer. just push the connector on, hand tighten the bolt,
press the connector again..etc..

Having a computer fault is low on the list, but given the cost of
both part it may well be worth it to have a dealer check it out.

Some stores will check alternators, but you have to remove it and
bring it in.

--
DougW

 

Lon did pass the time by typing:
> Herb Leong proclaimed:
>
>> In article <449af419$0$65451$742ec2ed@news.sonic.net>,
>> Pond Scum <jhue@sonic.net> wrote:
>> #
>> #Anyone know what the most common fix for engine code 41 is ('93 ZJ)? My
>> #alternator is not putting out any output. Is it typically more than just
>> #replacing the alternator? I'm trying to get this vehicle running so I can
>> #give it away to a relative, so I'm hoping it doesn't turn out to need
>> #anything expensive.
>> #
>> Is this the original alternator?
>
> Dunno about the 93 but on the later ZJ, the voltage regulator is not in
> the alternator, it is the engine control computer.

On the 93 the regulator is in the computer. Grounding causes the alternator
to charge the battery, but you have to be very attentive not to put out over
16 volts or you will fry things.

> IF your 93 is the same as the 95, the way the PCM controls the
> alternator voltage is by applying and removing a ground to one of the
> fields.

Yep. 93-95 are all the same setup. 96-99 is slightly different but still
used the computer.

Code 41 is "an open or shorted connection was detected
in the generator field control circuit"

(always disconnect the battery when working with the alternator or computer)

I'd check the wire first.
The alternator output terminal has battery voltage on it at all times.

on the back is a 20 gauge, dark green wire. This is the regulator
wire that runs to the computer. (box on the firewall behind the
overflow bottle)

This could be a dirty connector on the computer. Bit of a pain
to deal with. You have to take the overflow bottle out, then remove
the plug, take the computer off, clean the whole thing with contact
cleaner (that is safe for plastic). Put some dilectric (sparkplug)
grease on the connector, and reassemble. Just don't crank too tight
and don't use the bolt in the connector to suck it on. That will crack
the computer. just push the connector on, hand tighten the bolt,
press the connector again..etc..

Having a computer fault is low on the list, but given the cost of
both part it may well be worth it to have a dealer check it out.

Some stores will check alternators, but you have to remove it and
bring it in.

--
DougW