Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
10-07-2003, 11:30 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
Good advice. When I first hauled my CJ5 out of the barn it had been in for
years only the headlights worked. Every marker light socket was corroded and
the front turn & rear tail light assys had at one time filled with water, so
they were corroded beyond belief. A bit of work with some scotch brite
cleaned them all up and they worked for a time, finally to be replaced with
all new light assys.
Every time I fixed one light, another started to work, so check 'em all out.
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.4.43.0310070954050.21038-100000@sea.ntplx.net...
>
> Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
> each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
> cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
> You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
> they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
> metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.
>
> As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
> the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
> check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
> so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
> the ground wire to a better bit of body.
>
> There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
> (engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
> firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
> checked, just for giggles.
>
> The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
> panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
> tail lights.
>
> If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
> probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
> bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
> and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
> the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.
>
>
>
> On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net
wrote:
>
> > I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good
and
> > the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> > front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from
rewiring my
> > 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> > screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> > ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do
anything
> > more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> > >
> > > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the
left
> > > rear shorted...
> > >
> > > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > > loop on a stud.
> > >
> > > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > > the fixtures on.
> > >
> > > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> > >
> > > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > > happen.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > > 1984 CJ7
> > > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > > >
> > > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn
signal
> > does
> > > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > > >
> > > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and
stay
> > on
> > > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > > >
> > > > Stranges damn thing.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
> as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
> coverage and maximum profit potential."
>
> Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.
>
>
>
years only the headlights worked. Every marker light socket was corroded and
the front turn & rear tail light assys had at one time filled with water, so
they were corroded beyond belief. A bit of work with some scotch brite
cleaned them all up and they worked for a time, finally to be replaced with
all new light assys.
Every time I fixed one light, another started to work, so check 'em all out.
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.4.43.0310070954050.21038-100000@sea.ntplx.net...
>
> Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
> each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
> cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
> You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
> they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
> metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.
>
> As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
> the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
> check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
> so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
> the ground wire to a better bit of body.
>
> There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
> (engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
> firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
> checked, just for giggles.
>
> The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
> panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
> tail lights.
>
> If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
> probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
> bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
> and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
> the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.
>
>
>
> On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net
wrote:
>
> > I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good
and
> > the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> > front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from
rewiring my
> > 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> > screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> > ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do
anything
> > more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> > >
> > > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the
left
> > > rear shorted...
> > >
> > > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > > loop on a stud.
> > >
> > > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > > the fixtures on.
> > >
> > > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> > >
> > > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > > happen.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > > 1984 CJ7
> > > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > > >
> > > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn
signal
> > does
> > > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > > >
> > > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and
stay
> > on
> > > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > > >
> > > > Stranges damn thing.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
> as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
> coverage and maximum profit potential."
>
> Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.
>
>
>
10-07-2003, 11:30 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
Good advice. When I first hauled my CJ5 out of the barn it had been in for
years only the headlights worked. Every marker light socket was corroded and
the front turn & rear tail light assys had at one time filled with water, so
they were corroded beyond belief. A bit of work with some scotch brite
cleaned them all up and they worked for a time, finally to be replaced with
all new light assys.
Every time I fixed one light, another started to work, so check 'em all out.
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.4.43.0310070954050.21038-100000@sea.ntplx.net...
>
> Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
> each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
> cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
> You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
> they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
> metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.
>
> As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
> the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
> check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
> so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
> the ground wire to a better bit of body.
>
> There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
> (engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
> firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
> checked, just for giggles.
>
> The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
> panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
> tail lights.
>
> If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
> probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
> bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
> and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
> the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.
>
>
>
> On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net
wrote:
>
> > I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good
and
> > the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> > front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from
rewiring my
> > 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> > screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> > ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do
anything
> > more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> > >
> > > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the
left
> > > rear shorted...
> > >
> > > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > > loop on a stud.
> > >
> > > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > > the fixtures on.
> > >
> > > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> > >
> > > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > > happen.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > > 1984 CJ7
> > > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > > >
> > > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn
signal
> > does
> > > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > > >
> > > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and
stay
> > on
> > > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > > >
> > > > Stranges damn thing.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
> as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
> coverage and maximum profit potential."
>
> Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.
>
>
>
years only the headlights worked. Every marker light socket was corroded and
the front turn & rear tail light assys had at one time filled with water, so
they were corroded beyond belief. A bit of work with some scotch brite
cleaned them all up and they worked for a time, finally to be replaced with
all new light assys.
Every time I fixed one light, another started to work, so check 'em all out.
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@ntplx.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.GSO.4.43.0310070954050.21038-100000@sea.ntplx.net...
>
> Hmmm. The front ground tags are a pair of #10 screws and nuts, one on
> each side of the back of the grill, 1" below the center screw hole for the
> cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on the right).
> You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual connection. But
> they just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use the sheet
> metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.
>
> As I recall, the taillight ground was attached by a sheet metal screw to
> the baffle at the back of each rear wheel well (new tub, no way for me to
> check this). But the baffle is just pop riveted to the support bracket,
> so it might be isolated from ground by rust. ABanks5 should try moving
> the ground wire to a better bit of body.
>
> There's also a ground strap that bridges the left motor mount rubber
> (engine to frame ground) and one from the head or block to a stud on the
> firewall behind the 6-cyl.'s valve cover (engine to body) that should be
> checked, just for giggles.
>
> The dashboard ground by the light switch only provides a return path for
> panel lights, there's no ground wire in the harness from the dash to the
> tail lights.
>
> If ABanks5 has a continuity tester ( a battery, a pilot light and two
> probes), he could open up the tail lights, pull the bulbs (to avoid
> bleeding to ground thrugh the filliment in an other light in the system)
> and check to see if there's continuity between the metal sleeve that holds
> the light bulb and a good bit of ground. If not, there's his problem.
>
>
>
> On or about Tue, 7 Oct 2003, Gerald G. McGeorge of gmcgeorge@frontier.net
wrote:
>
> > I agree with Mike. Assuming you've checked to be sure the bulbs are good
and
> > the sockets & contacts are clean, check the lighting harness grounds up
> > front. Check your wiring diagram for locations. As I recall from
rewiring my
> > 76 CJ5 it had grounds in the rear fenderwells attached with sheet metal
> > screws, and lighting grounds located on the grill assy. There's also a
> > ground for the light switch on the dash panel, but that may not do
anything
> > more than ground the panel lights, can't remember for sure.
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:3F823135.95E7A2BC@sympatico.ca...
> > > That sounds like a ground fault or a short.
> > >
> > > I would be suspecting one of the front signals for no ground or the
left
> > > rear shorted...
> > >
> > > The running lights use a wiring harness ground tag to the body. I
> > > believe it is on the right side on the rear and maybe the same on the
> > > front. It is at the end of the harness pieces anyway on both and is a
> > > loop on a stud.
> > >
> > > The signals ground through the fixtures or the screws/bolts that hold
> > > the fixtures on.
> > >
> > > If either lose their ground all kinds of strange things happen.
> > >
> > > I have seen a 'whole' pile of the dual filament 1157 bulbs come loose
> > > from the brass sockets and spin inside, crossing or shorting the
> > > filament wires and short out the works making things like you describe
> > > happen.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > ABanks5@columbus.rr.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Diagnos this one...:
> > > > 1984 CJ7
> > > > Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
> > > > parking/headlights are OFF
> > > >
> > > > When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn
signal
> > does
> > > > not work at all when the lights are on.
> > > >
> > > > Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and
stay
> > on
> > > > when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
> > > >
> > > > Stranges damn thing.
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> "doing whatever it took to capture world marketing shares, even as far
> as having multiple satellites circling the globe to ensure complete
> coverage and maximum profit potential."
>
> Tealady spills the beans on AFU's new business plan.
>
>
>
10-11-2003, 03:53 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
Make sure you have good grounds first of all.
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
10-11-2003, 03:53 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
Make sure you have good grounds first of all.
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
10-11-2003, 03:53 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Electrical Gremlins...need HELP!
Make sure you have good grounds first of all.
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
On Tue, 07 Oct 2003 01:18:40 GMT, <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>Diagnos this one...:
>1984 CJ7
>Have turn signals in the rear of the Jeep only, and ONLY when the
>parking/headlights are OFF
>
>When the are ON, only the RIGHT turn signal works, the left turn signal does
>not work at all when the lights are on.
>
>Both front parking lights (double as turn signals) work perfect and stay on
>when the lights are on (but no turn signals).
>
>Stranges damn thing.
>
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