electrical
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
You should see what they drive in Mexico, some things I've seen
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
You should see what they drive in Mexico, some things I've seen
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
You should see what they drive in Mexico, some things I've seen
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
that stuck out like a sore thumb, an old GM point distributor sitting on
a Ford.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4141B0AE.DC01644D@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4141B0AE.DC01644D@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4141B0AE.DC01644D@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>>
>> >And as a follow-up.
>> >
>> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>> >
>> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>>
>> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
>was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
>ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
Well, instead of assuming things, why don't you get a price on a new one and put
this to rest. It's getting boring.
>
>>
>> >
>> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>>
>> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
>> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
>> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
>> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
>> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
>> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
>> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
>> regulator problems.
>>
>> >
>> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>>
>> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
>> connection can cause this.
>>
>> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
>> Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
>because the field power tag is the coil power line.
No maybe about it. If there's a short in the field driver circuit, voltage will
go high.
As far as the ignition not shutting off, your leaping to conclusions that aren't
there.
>
>>
>> >
>> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>> >possible.
>> >
>> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>> >bucks?
>>
>> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
>> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
>> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
>> off my nose either way.
>
>So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
If that's the quality of work you like to do, go for it.
Just hope he doesn't need a smog inspection anytime soon.
>
>There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
>and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
>alternator.
>
>Mike
>
>>
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >
>> >Mike Romain wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>> >>
>> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> >> computer.
>> >>
>> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>> >>
>> >> Mike
>> >>
>> >> bllsht wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >> >
>> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >> >
>> >> > It is in the computer.
>> >> >
>> >> > However, you said:
>> >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> >
>> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> >> > regulator is.
>> >> >
>> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >> >
>> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >> >
>> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >> >
>> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >> >
>> >> > > If you can't
>> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> >> > >you are with every post?
>> >> >
>> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >> >
>> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> >> > here.
>> >> >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >Mike
>> >> > >
>> >> > >bllsht wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> >> > >> reliable.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> >> > >>
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >Mike
>> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >> > >> >
>> >> > >> >shell wrote:
>> >> > >> >>
>> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do..
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do..
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do..
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
-Don
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> unplugged.
>
> Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> just the regulator in?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Don wrote:
> >
> > May not be the best solution, but:
> > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> >
> > -Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
Thanks, he will likely do the same.
Mike
Don wrote:
>
> It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do..
> just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
> with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
>
> -Don
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> > can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> > unplugged.
> >
> > Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> > just the regulator in?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Don wrote:
> > >
> > > May not be the best solution, but:
> > > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> > >
> > > -Don
Mike
Don wrote:
>
> It was a long time ago, but I don't remember it being hard to do..
> just used the wiring diagram in my Chiltons manual and double checked
> with a multimeter. Then held my breath when I started it.
>
> -Don
>
> Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<4141F17C.68B52424@sympatico.ca>...
> > That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
> > can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
> > unplugged.
> >
> > Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
> > just the regulator in?
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > Don wrote:
> > >
> > > May not be the best solution, but:
> > > when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> > > with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> > > wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> > > engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> > > Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> > > want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
> > >
> > > -Don
