electrical
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
As if you, girlie boy knew what a DRB-III is.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bllsht wrote:
>
> If that's your only criteria, I'd say you've been lucky.
>
> If you actually expect it to run, and it's equipped with SKIM, it needs
> programming.
>
> If it's equipped with ABS, and you don't like looking at the ABS light, it needs
> programming.
>
> Other than that, you can get away without.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
bllsht wrote:
>
> If that's your only criteria, I'd say you've been lucky.
>
> If you actually expect it to run, and it's equipped with SKIM, it needs
> programming.
>
> If it's equipped with ABS, and you don't like looking at the ABS light, it needs
> programming.
>
> Other than that, you can get away without.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
bllsht wrote:
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
bllsht wrote:
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
bllsht wrote:
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>
> In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>
> >And as a follow-up.
> >
> >To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
> >'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
> >
> >Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
>
> OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
He didn't get a price for a 'new' computer, just a remanned one. When I
was active in repairs, a 'remanned' one was 3 to 8 hundred and 'new'
ones were 2 to 3 thousand.
>
> >
> >In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
> >we cleaned all the main wires first.
>
> In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
> get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
> regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
> corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
> at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
> broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
> I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
> regulator problems.
>
> >
> >In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
> >connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
> >normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
>
> Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
> connection can cause this.
>
> An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
> Ever done a 'full field' test?
Maybe, seems to me when the field shorts, the ignition won't shut off
because the field power tag is the coil power line.
>
> >
> >If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
> >GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
> >possible.
> >
> >You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
> >proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
> >left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
> >bucks?
>
> Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
> anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
> light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
> off my nose either way.
So you figure all that is needed is to pull a bulb?
There was another poster here also asking about dumping the TJ computer
and going manual with a carb and points. He also would need a 'real'
alternator.
Mike
>
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >Mike Romain wrote:
> >>
> >> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
> >> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
> >>
> >> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
> >> computer.
> >>
> >> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> bllsht wrote:
> >> >
> >> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> >
> >> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
> >> >
> >> > I will always stand behind my posts.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
> >> > >
> >> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
> >> >
> >> > It is in the computer.
> >> >
> >> > However, you said:
> >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> >
> >> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
> >> > regulator is.
> >> >
> >> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
> >> >
> >> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
> >> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
> >> >
> >> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
> >> >
> >> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
> >> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
> >> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
> >> >
> >> > > If you can't
> >> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
> >> > >you are with every post?
> >> >
> >> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
> >> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
> >> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
> >> >
> >> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
> >> > here.
> >> >
> >> > >
> >> > >Mike
> >> > >
> >> > >bllsht wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
> >> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
> >> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
> >> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
> >> > >> reliable.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
> >> > >>
> >> > >> Did you take your pills today?
> >> > >>
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >Mike
> >> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> > >> >
> >> > >> >shell wrote:
> >> > >> >>
> >> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
May not be the best solution, but:
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
May not be the best solution, but:
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
May not be the best solution, but:
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
-Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
That is why I was thinking on tossing a GM one wire alternator in. They
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
can be had for a hundred bucks with warranty. The light can always be
unplugged.
Was it hard to ID the correct wires to cut out of the computer to put
just the regulator in?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Don wrote:
>
> May not be the best solution, but:
> when the regulator in my '91 Dakota computer went out I bypassed it
> with a regulator from a RAM ($10 vs. $300). I just disconnected the
> wires from the comp and connected to the external regulator. The check
> engine light never turned off, but at least my battery stayed charged.
> Not sure if the newer systems can be bypassed like this, but if you
> want to save hundreds it might be worth a shot.
>
> -Don
