electrical
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <413FF082.DFC7194E@***.net>, "L.W." wrote:
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <413FF082.DFC7194E@***.net>, "L.W." wrote:
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <413FF082.DFC7194E@***.net>, "L.W." wrote:
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
> What are you so afraid of? My phone number and address have been in
>the public phone book all my life, and no one has bothered me. So get an
>address little girlie boy if you expect me to give you credit.
LOL. Like I need you to give me credit.
You poor twisted old man. Have another Ritalin.
> And they were tail light, or trailer shorts that nailed the
>majority of the alternator regulators, I've replaced, which keyed on
>overcharging, flickering headlights as the OP told of.
> And I've been working on cars my whole life, and I'm sixty two:
>http://www.----------.com/oscilloscope.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>mailto:--------------------
>
>bllsht wrote:
>>
>> Oh, I think I see the problem here. My ***** are right here swinging, where
>> they belong. Yours are attached to a return address. You have misplaced your
>> *****, Billy!
>>
>> I'd be more concerned with your brain though. Maybe you should go looking for
>> that before you worry too much about your other 'little' problems.
>>
>> Yeah, I could have suggested that, but then I'd look as stupid as you do.
>> Flashing headlights don't indicate a regulator needs to be replaced. It
>> indicates a problem that needs to be looked at and diagnosed. Not wildly
>> throwing parts at it, as you always suggest.
>>
>> Anything that would make the computer see incorrect voltage could cause this
>> problem. Bad grounds (Mike should have been all over this instead of having a
>> panic attack and whining about computers), bad power connections, etc. Could be
>> a shorted field driver circuit. It may even be a computer/regulator, but you
>> have to cover the basics first, as always. In 20 years of working on Jeep
>> electrical and drive ability, I've replaced ONE computer because the regulator
>> wasn't working, and that was damaged by a shorted wiring harness.
>>
>> IMO, it's irresponsible to tell somebody to replace a part without checking the
>> whole system out first.
>>
>> But then you're more concerned with your 'little *****' than responsibility.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <kPS%c.78761$yh.52324@fed1read05>, "Jerry Bransford" wrote:
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <kPS%c.78761$yh.52324@fed1read05>, "Jerry Bransford" wrote:
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <kPS%c.78761$yh.52324@fed1read05>, "Jerry Bransford" wrote:
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
>Bill, you never cease to amaze me... someone apologizes to you and in your
>reply you still manage to come off like the an ***.
He came off exactly like I'd expect an *** to come off. LOL
Don't bother with it Jerry. He's pitiful, really.
>
>Jerry
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <4140E38B.578AD6CE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
>And as a follow-up.
>
>To fix the voltage regulator in that 2000 TJ costs $800.00 for the
>'reconditioned' computer plus 15% tax plus labor plus programming.
>
>Well over $1000.00 for an electronic chip worth less than five bucks.
OK, so where does the $3000.00 part come into play?
>
>In 'this' case the voltage regulator is dropping out and coming back so
>we cleaned all the main wires first.
In this case, if it's confirmed there are no other electrical problems, it can
get difficult to decide which to blame. I have seen alternators cause the
regulator to 'flip out' and not switch properly, even if the original problem
corrects it's self. Cycle the key and things are back to normal, maybe for days
at a time. There's really no way to tell what's causing it if it won't stay
broken long enough. That's the problem with intermittent electrical problems.
I will tell you again. Alternator problems are much more common than computer
regulator problems.
>
>In the OP case it is spiking out. That does not indicate a bad
>connection or a blown diode in the rectifier because it comes back to
>normal. That indicates a bad regulator.
Not if the regulator is reacting to faulty input. Again, a bad or intermittent
connection can cause this.
An intermittent short on the field driver circuit can cause this.
Ever done a 'full field' test?
>
>If it was mine, I would just put a 'real' alternator in there like the
>GM one in the CJ's and forget the computer's regulator if that is
>possible.
>
>You 'say' you are a Jeep tech, what if anything would be needed to put a
>proper alternator in? Could the computer with the dead chip just be
>left alone or are these poor suckers stuck getting screwed for big
>bucks?
Well, since what I say doesn't really matter, because you don't believe me
anyway, I'll just tell you this. If you're prepared to live with a check engine
light, go ahead and put the other alternator in. Believe it or don't, no skin
off my nose either way.
>
>Mike
>
>Mike Romain wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, I see. I used the wrong term for the regulator. It isn't a set of
>> diodes after all, it is something else electronic.
>>
>> Same point. It costs less than $5.00 and if dead you have to change the
>> computer.
>>
>> I have a friend in a 2000 TJ with exactly that problem.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> bllsht wrote:
>> >
>> > In message <413F123D.1C53B0EE@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> >
>> > >So are you willing to back up this latest bull ---- post?
>> >
>> > I will always stand behind my posts.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Where is the voltage regulator in the newer DC Jeeps?
>> > >
>> > >Is it in the alternator or in the computer?
>> >
>> > It is in the computer.
>> >
>> > However, you said:
>> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> >
>> > In case you haven't heard, diodes don't go in the regulator, no matter where the
>> > regulator is.
>> >
>> > >What 'does' a 'new' computer cost? For sure it ain't no 300 bucks.
>> >
>> > For the most part, between $300 and $600, some are close to $1000, but that's
>> > pretty rare. A far cry from $3000, wouldn't you say?
>> >
>> > >You don't have to try and confuse with every post.
>> >
>> > It's my fault you're so easily confused? I was replying to your tantrum about
>> > computers. I'd say your post was probably real confusing for the OP. I was
>> > trying to insert some sanity to follow up your panic stricken post.
>> >
>> > > If you can't
>> > >constructively contribute, then why bother to show how much of an ***
>> > >you are with every post?
>> >
>> > Well, if you think 'assuming' a computer will fix his problem is constructive,
>> > we're never gonna agree, and frankly, I thought you sounded more like an *** in
>> > your post than I did. At least mine was based in fact, not fear of the unknown.
>> >
>> > Read my reply to your friend Billy for some tips. I'm not gonna type it again
>> > here.
>> >
>> > >
>> > >Mike
>> > >
>> > >bllsht wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> In message <413E032E.3EB9B2CA@sympatico.ca>, "Mike Romain" wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> >You need to get that looked at.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Unfortunately I 'think' the regulator is part of the $3000.00 computer
>> > >> >instead of a relatively cheap fix like inside the alternator.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >They figured out a great new way to screw folks with that BS.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >$3K for a set of diodes worth less than $5.00.
>> > >>
>> > >> If you spent less time talking out your ***, and a little more time doing
>> > >> research, I'm sure even you could figure out that the diodes are still in the
>> > >> alternators, computers cost more like $300 than $3000, AND they're WAY more
>> > >> reliable.
>> > >>
>> > >> Don't panic just because you don't understand it.
>> > >>
>> > >> Did you take your pills today?
>> > >>
>> > >> >
>> > >> >Mike
>> > >> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> > >> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> > >> >
>> > >> >shell wrote:
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> i forgot to mention my headlights brighten up when the gauge pegs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: electrical
In message <yc60d.78873$yh.59820@fed1read05>, "Jerry Bransford" wrote:
>It teaches itself so long as the ECM is for the same model year, tranny, and
>engine but that's it. :)
>
>Jerry
If that's your only criteria, I'd say you've been lucky.
If you actually expect it to run, and it's equipped with SKIM, it needs
programming.
If it's equipped with ABS, and you don't like looking at the ABS light, it needs
programming.
Other than that, you can get away without.
>It teaches itself so long as the ECM is for the same model year, tranny, and
>engine but that's it. :)
>
>Jerry
If that's your only criteria, I'd say you've been lucky.
If you actually expect it to run, and it's equipped with SKIM, it needs
programming.
If it's equipped with ABS, and you don't like looking at the ABS light, it needs
programming.
Other than that, you can get away without.
