EGR ?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0406220855420.6810@panix2.pani x.com>...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0406220855420.6810@panix2.pani x.com>...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0406220855420.6810@panix2.pani x.com>...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
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