EGR ?
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40D788BC.B729B26E@***.net...
> Outside of the frog injection no other injection uses the EGR, which
> leaves out of Ford and GM cars for over twenty years.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Paul Calman wrote:
> >
> > > Paul, the only time the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve opens is on
> > > hard deceleration. All that could do not allow air and mixture to be
> > > suck through the carburetor during deceleration:
> >
> > The old ones did, but the new systems open at all kinds of crazy times.
> > Something to keep in mind when outfitting newer engines to old vehicles.
The
> > 99 Vortek we are putting in a Jeepster will have all of the smog crap
except
> > for the cat.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
Chris
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40D788BC.B729B26E@***.net...
> Outside of the frog injection no other injection uses the EGR, which
> leaves out of Ford and GM cars for over twenty years.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Paul Calman wrote:
> >
> > > Paul, the only time the Exhaust Gases Recirculation valve opens is on
> > > hard deceleration. All that could do not allow air and mixture to be
> > > suck through the carburetor during deceleration:
> >
> > The old ones did, but the new systems open at all kinds of crazy times.
> > Something to keep in mind when outfitting newer engines to old vehicles.
The
> > 99 Vortek we are putting in a Jeepster will have all of the smog crap
except
> > for the cat.
> >
> > --
> > Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
I stand corrected: http://www.fierolt1.com/faq.htm#bypassEGR
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
I stand corrected: http://www.fierolt1.com/faq.htm#bypassEGR
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
I stand corrected: http://www.fierolt1.com/faq.htm#bypassEGR
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
I stand corrected: http://www.fierolt1.com/faq.htm#bypassEGR
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
c wrote:
>
> the 1996 LT-1 Chevy has EGR, and so does the last TPI system made in 1991.
>
> Chris
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
> My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
[snip]
I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: EGR ?
Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0406220855420.6810@panix2.pani x.com>...
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm
> On Mon, 21 Jun 2004, GaryZ wrote:
>
> > My '78 cj5 258 has not had a functioning EGR valve since I've owned
> > the vehicle. Every year I am replacing the vacuum lines and plugs on
> > the carb because they get brittle and crack, which ends up with
> > backfires, rough idles ect... I was told that because the EGR is not
> > hooked up, the combustion temps are very high, which makes the exhaust
> > manifold excessively hot. The excessive heat is drying out the lines
> > and plugs. Sounds feasable, from what I've read the EGR is supposed
> > to bring down the combustion temps. I can put a new EGR on simple
> > enough. I do not have to meet any emissions requirements anymore
> [snip]
>
> I don't imagine that an inoperative EGR is going to raise under-hood temps
> all that much, but I'm not an automotive engineer. I could be wrong. Do
> yu have all the missing pulsed AIR rail ports on the exhaust manifold
> firmly plugged? I'd guess that exhaust leaks would raise temps more.
>
> Anyway, if you decide to replace the EGR it might be good to know that --
> at least for the one that I bought from a large national retail chain for
> my `79 CJ-5's 258 -- they come with an assortment of orifice washers and a
> key chart. They want you to match a part number on a tag on the EGR to
> one on the chart and then select the properly sized orifice from that.
> Again, in my case, the tag had been paper and faded a dozen years ago, no
> way to figure out which orifice to use. I ended up using the sized shim
> that was under my old EGR and tossed the baggie of washers.
>
> I'm hoping that that was a good thing.
The air tube holes are all plugged with bolts, and I never have had
any sign of a leak. All of the emissions stuff was removed by the
prior owner(s). Fortunately its passed emissions the past 3 years.
They said it burned cleaner then a lot of new cars, go figure. Now
its exempt. Funny time to be thinking about putting emissions stuff
back on. Any way I think I'll give a try. I need a small project.
Far as I know I just need the CTO some vacuum hoses and the EGR. I've
found some vacuum diagrams at
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/misc/vacuumhoses.html.
GaryZ
http://home.earthlink.net/~gzalar/cj5.htm