ECU for Jeep Cherokee
06-16-2005, 06:22 PM
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Haven't gotten the OBD reader yet, therefore no progress in this matter.
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
06-17-2005, 05:26 PM
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Hi,
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
06-17-2005, 05:26 PM
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Hi,
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
06-17-2005, 05:26 PM
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Hi,
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
06-17-2005, 05:26 PM
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Hi,
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
Crankshaft sensor and its good.
I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
Thanks again
Jo
"Stephen Cowell" <scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:xPNre.916$kX4.370@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com. ..
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec
> > and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I
> > hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing
> > the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to
> > ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
06-17-2005, 07:18 PM
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
06-17-2005, 07:18 PM
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
06-17-2005, 07:18 PM
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
06-17-2005, 07:18 PM
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
> Hi,
> I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> Thanks again
As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
can cause headaches to the ECU.
--
DougW
06-17-2005, 08:20 PM
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
i would replace the tps the pcm is working correctly as far as voltage
DougW wrote:
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > Hi,
> > I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> > special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> > voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> > Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> > pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> > measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> > Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> > I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> > with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> > Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> > without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> > Thanks again
>
> As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
> want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
> out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
> and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
>
> I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
> some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
> gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
>
> Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
> of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
> can cause headaches to the ECU.
>
> --
> DougW
DougW wrote:
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > Hi,
> > I did the proposed alignment procedure and I cleaned all contacts with a
> > special contact cleaner. Nothing changed. I can not reset the error. The
> > voltages are 5.1V constant supply ground to pin 1. Then the voltage between
> > Pin1 and 2 is between 1.1V (fully closed) and 4.2V fully open. Between the
> > pin 2 and ground the voltage is 3.9V fully closed and 1.1V fully open. I
> > measured the resistance of the common ground of the Map, the TPS and the
> > Crankshaft sensor and its good.
> > I guess I am running out of options, since I also cleaned the throttle body
> > with carburator cleaner prior to putting it into the car.
> > Does anybody have another idea? The thought to get a new ECU for 450$
> > without knowing if it fixes it is not funny.
> > Thanks again
>
> As much as I don't like throwing parts at a problem you might
> want to try the MAP sensor before the ECU. When it comes to paying
> out $450 it's also a good idea just to take it into a dealership
> and have them do a full diagnostic on the engine.
>
> I've gone through two MAP sensors and the symptoms are usually
> some stubling along with a gutless acceleration except when the
> gas is floored or when the engine is running in warmup-mode.
>
> Just for grins, check the O2 sensor lead as it goes up the front
> of the block and make sure it's not melted or abraided. This
> can cause headaches to the ECU.
>
> --
> DougW