ECU for Jeep Cherokee
#71
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
#72
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
#73
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message news:niMre.15993$mC.9041@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
> > I just tried the proposed starting procedure. KeyOnEngineoff for 10sec and
> > then crank but no vroom. I needed a second try. When I turn the key I hear
> > the Fuel pump for approx 1sec (I believe its the fuel pump).
>
> Your correct, the pump runs (primes) the system for about 1 sec.
>
> > With the engine
> > cold there is a little delay in the throttle response. Between Pushing the
> > throttle a bit and the revs coming up is a ~0.5sec delay. When I rev the
> > engine at 2000 and go of the Throttle it goes all the way down to ~300rpm
> > before it comes up to 800 again.0
>
> That's normal. Your letting off the throttle is telling the engine to
> go into braking mode.
I disagree... 300rpm is not normal... I feel that the idle air
solenoid is closing down when he opens the throttle, then
motoring back up after the throttle hits the closed stop.
This certainly points to a TPS problem.... let's see what
happens after he performs the TPS alignment procedure
you gave.
__
Steve
..
#74
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:23:17 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:23:17 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:23:17 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:23:17 UTC "DougW"
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
<post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> See that second bit "TPS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor".
> It could be the rubber hose between the MAP sensor and your inake has
> a leak or the MAP sensor is failing. They can fail without setting
> codes. They are of course bloody expensive and hard to test.
Just a slight expansion on your sequence her, Doug.
I've seen three cases where this problem was actually a dirty throttle
body. In one, the map port was clogged solid - took a small dril bit
and lots of cleaner followed by a pipe cleaner to get it working.
The other case was a buildup involving the idle air mixture. On the
one hand, there was enough buildup around the port to actually keep
the pintle on the IAC from seating while the buildup was sufficient to
actually grab the pintle and keep it from opening smoothly going the
other way. Cure was to remove the IAC motor and clean that idle air
port REALLY well.
The third case was on my 88 but I'm not sure the later MOPAR throttle
bodies have this and it sounds like yours is the later model. Mine
has an idle air bypass with the inlet on the top of the throttle body
and a needle valve near the base of the throttle body covered by a
tamper proof cover. I had to use an ice pick to remove that cover,
take the needle valve all the way out, and clean that entire channel
out - it was plugged solid. If you remove the needle valve, first
screw it all the way in (counting the turns) so that you can reset it
to where it was.
Long and the short of it: clean the throttle body REALLY well before
you throw too many parts at it. I finally pulled the throttle body
completely off and let it sit in cleaner in an ultrasonic cleaner for
an hour or so to get mine straightened out.
--
Will Honea
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Haven't gotten the OBD reader yet, therefore no progress in this matter.
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Haven't gotten the OBD reader yet, therefore no progress in this matter.
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: ECU for Jeep Cherokee
Haven't gotten the OBD reader yet, therefore no progress in this matter.
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>
Drove the car today. Not too bad, slight bucking. Hope to get to it Friday.
Don't forget to check back please.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:duqre.15928$mC.2210@okepread07...
> reigelser did pass the time by typing:
>> I need the ECU eventually because of a persistent TPS error. My mechanic
>> troubleshooted it and thinks its probably the ECU. But he thinks there
>> has
>> to be some reprogramming to be done, because I tried one from the junk
>> yard
>> before he looked into it and nothing changed (same TPS error, same
>> mileage).
>> It's a 97 inline 6 Cherokee. It works, but it doesn't start at first try
>> and
>> it is not very smooth if you want to accelerate from 65 to 75 without a
>> kickdown.
>
> Clean the connectors at both the TPS and the ECU.
> And while you have the plugs off, ohm out the sensor
> lines as the TPS shares a common ground link with
> other sensors and that link can go wonky.
>
> All I have is the 93 schematic so you need the color codes for
> your year.
>
> --
> DougW
>