Duel-Temp-sensor
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Dirty Ditch Dawg did pass the time by typing:
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Dirty Ditch Dawg did pass the time by typing:
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Dirty Ditch Dawg did pass the time by typing:
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
> Doug,
> i want to do the same thing,
> only my probe block would attach(intake) to the original hole in the
> block that the
> original probe went into,
> than i want to make an outlet, line to somewhere,
> hence the question,
> of tapping into the termostat cover or the hose going into my intake,
> this i thought would give me a more accurate reading ov my block/water
> temp,
I see what your trying to do. That would take a port running to the suction
side to create flow. Is there enough space in the thermostat cover to mill
another probe port?
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Mike,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Mike,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Mike,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
tiny,,,grrr,
the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
the probe wont even get into the block,
,
and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
,
otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
the temp reading would be more accurate.
,
johnp
,
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get one
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
The only real safe and accurate place to put a sensor is in the top part
of the head where the most heat seems to be generated. It also tells
you 'fast' if you are air locked because the gauge pins out quick in
steam so you hopeful don't bake a head over an air bubble.
A return line will not work. A top rad hose won't work for the above
head burning reason. Forget the lower rad hose, it is cold already. You
can get 'some' degree of accuracy in the intake manifold's water jacket
because that bypasses the rad, but again you lose the air bubble
safety. Same/worse for in the t-stat cover. The t-stat can stick so
your gauge says all is fine as your engine melts down.
If it was mine, I would just get the correct sensor.... Or maybe try to
tap the head, but......
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Dirty Ditch Dawg wrote:
>
> Mike,
> my original sensor is only 1/4 wide, screwing into the block,
> tiny,,,grrr,
> the machanical sensor is 1/2 inch,
> the probe wont even get into the block,
> ,
> and yes on the airlock, thats why i wanted to put in a return line,
> to keep the water flowing over the sensor,
> i have a drawing of the block im thinking of making if you want a peek,
> ,
> otherwise i have made up a raidiator hose adaptor for it already,
> but wanted to keep it closer to the rear of the block, as im assuming
> the temp reading would be more accurate.
> ,
> johnp
> ,
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Duel-Temp-sensor
Mike, or anybody,
i went back to the auto-parts store, they looked in the book,
they cant find a 3/8 sensor,
and yes i took out my sensor, its 3-friggen 8ths,,,FRIG,,,
from what the guy said he couldent even find a3/8ths sensor for an
electrical unit,
,
im going to contact autometer tommorrow,
but it dont look good,
,
and im not looking to tap out my block,
this sucks,
,
johnp
,
Mike Romain wrote:
> With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get
one
> to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
> larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
i went back to the auto-parts store, they looked in the book,
they cant find a 3/8 sensor,
and yes i took out my sensor, its 3-friggen 8ths,,,FRIG,,,
from what the guy said he couldent even find a3/8ths sensor for an
electrical unit,
,
im going to contact autometer tommorrow,
but it dont look good,
,
and im not looking to tap out my block,
this sucks,
,
johnp
,
Mike Romain wrote:
> With all the hundreds of sensors out there why didn't you just get
one
> to fit the Jeep engine? I also think the stock sensor threads are
> larger than you think. Maybe 1/2" with a small nut shape.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's