Exactly. Before I went the shim route, the angle at the pinion and
driveshaft was virtually non-existent. About 0 degrees. Would have been
perfect for the CV Shaft only I don't have an extra 400.00 for the shaft and
yolk to spend at this time. The 11.00 shim set is a worthy fix for now.


Bill




"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40C0D061.84E5F5C2@***.net...
> Hi Bill,
> Before you solve your problem with an constant velocity universal
> joint, it is important the slope down the output shaft and the slope up
> of the pinion angle be the same:
> http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> > 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> > nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to
position
> > the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to
back).
> >
> > Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a
2
> > 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> > Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
> >
> > Thanks to all,
> >
> > Bill

 

Heh, heh, me again......
;-)

That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!

Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
'big' impact gun.

Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.

And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
pinion done....

It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.

Just so you know....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to position
> the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to back).
>
> Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a 2
> 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Bill

 

Heh, heh, me again......
;-)

That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!

Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
'big' impact gun.

Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.

And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
pinion done....

It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.

Just so you know....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to position
> the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to back).
>
> Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a 2
> 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Bill

 

Heh, heh, me again......
;-)

That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!

Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
'big' impact gun.

Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.

And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
pinion done....

It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.

Just so you know....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to position
> the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to back).
>
> Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a 2
> 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Bill

 

Heh, heh, me again......
;-)

That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!

Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
'big' impact gun.

Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.

And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
pinion done....

It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.

Just so you know....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


William Oliveri wrote:
>
> Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to position
> the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to back).
>
> Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a 2
> 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Bill

 

Well, If it's 400.00 to do yours it Must be 800.00 to 1000.00 to do mine
here in SoCal.

Thanks for letting me know :-)

Bill



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40C103AF.94E5F26F@sympatico.ca...
> Heh, heh, me again......
> ;-)
>
> That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!
>
> Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
> so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
> 'big' impact gun.
>
> Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
> some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.
>
> And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
> t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
> pinion done....
>
> It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
> seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
> leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.
>
> Just so you know....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> > 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> > nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to
position
> > the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to
back).
> >
> > Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a
2
> > 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> > Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
> >
> > Thanks to all,
> >
> > Bill

 

Well, If it's 400.00 to do yours it Must be 800.00 to 1000.00 to do mine
here in SoCal.

Thanks for letting me know :-)

Bill



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40C103AF.94E5F26F@sympatico.ca...
> Heh, heh, me again......
> ;-)
>
> That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!
>
> Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
> so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
> 'big' impact gun.
>
> Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
> some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.
>
> And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
> t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
> pinion done....
>
> It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
> seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
> leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.
>
> Just so you know....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> > 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> > nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to
position
> > the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to
back).
> >
> > Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a
2
> > 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> > Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
> >
> > Thanks to all,
> >
> > Bill

 

Well, If it's 400.00 to do yours it Must be 800.00 to 1000.00 to do mine
here in SoCal.

Thanks for letting me know :-)

Bill



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40C103AF.94E5F26F@sympatico.ca...
> Heh, heh, me again......
> ;-)
>
> That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!
>
> Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
> so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
> 'big' impact gun.
>
> Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
> some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.
>
> And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
> t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
> pinion done....
>
> It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
> seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
> leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.
>
> Just so you know....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> > 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> > nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to
position
> > the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to
back).
> >
> > Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a
2
> > 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> > Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
> >
> > Thanks to all,
> >
> > Bill

 

Well, If it's 400.00 to do yours it Must be 800.00 to 1000.00 to do mine
here in SoCal.

Thanks for letting me know :-)

Bill



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:40C103AF.94E5F26F@sympatico.ca...
> Heh, heh, me again......
> ;-)
>
> That's a pain of a job eh? Congrats!
>
> Don't forget to go back and retorque the U bolts in a hundred miles or
> so. They 'will' come loose, they always do unless new and put on with a
> 'big' impact gun.
>
> Also know that the bolts stretch and are only good for a few torques,
> some folks say only one or 'maybe' two torques like head bolts.
>
> And do you realize what it costs to have your pinion bearings and the
> t-case output bearings changed? I just spent near 400 bucks having my
> pinion done....
>
> It takes very little vibration to destroy them Bill. As soon as the
> seal starts leaking, you are doing serious damage to it. The seal won't
> leak unless you are cooking the bearing out.
>
> Just so you know....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Well, looks like I solved 95% of my driveline vibration and just cost me
> > 11.00 (plus a bunch of cussing. It's somewhat of a PITA lining up these
> > nibs to the perches. I found a sledge hammer works quite well to
position
> > the spring sideways. The use of a mule kick to position it front to
back).
> >
> > Anyway, I took out the 6 degree shim and dropped the pinion down with a
2
> > 1/2 degree shim. Still a tiny bit of vibration there but it's liveable.
> > Perhaps in the future I can get a CV shaft if the money is around.
> >
> > Thanks to all,
> >
> > Bill