twaldron

DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons
back in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>

I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open
up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem.

tw

twaldron

DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons
back in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>

I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open
up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem.

tw

twaldron

DougW wrote:
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons
back in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>

I just push the pistons back in and put the new pads on. Why do you open
up the system? Just the way I've always done discs, never had a problem.

tw

RoyJ

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash
register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the
middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!)
to get the brakes to quit grabbing.

DougW wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
>> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.
>
> Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
> the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
> replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
> ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
> Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
> did brake work.
>
> Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
> grease or silicone, but that's all I had.
>
> I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
> that much over the lifetime.
>
> Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
> gaskets, or at least gaskets.
>

RoyJ

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash
register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the
middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!)
to get the brakes to quit grabbing.

DougW wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
>> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.
>
> Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
> the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
> replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
> ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
> Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
> did brake work.
>
> Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
> grease or silicone, but that's all I had.
>
> I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
> that much over the lifetime.
>
> Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
> gaskets, or at least gaskets.
>

RoyJ

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash
register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the
middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!)
to get the brakes to quit grabbing.

DougW wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
>> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.
>
> Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
> the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
> replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
> ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
> Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
> did brake work.
>
> Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
> grease or silicone, but that's all I had.
>
> I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
> that much over the lifetime.
>
> Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
> gaskets, or at least gaskets.
>

RoyJ

The auto stores sell little packs of the special high temp, silicone
based grease for this application. Usually in a rack near the cash
register for $.99 or $1.29. Well worth it.

I live in the rust belt, had to do a 9:30 PM run to the dealer in the
middle of a snowstorm to get new pins (and new emergency brake cables!)
to get the brakes to quit grabbing.

DougW wrote:
> RoyJ wrote:
>> Make sure your slider pins are corrosion free. Uneven wear between
>> inner and outer is a sure sign of problems.
>
> Yea, I pulled them out and cleaned/lubed them. No corrosion, but
> the little boots were showing cracks so it's time to get some
> replacements. Did see some wear on the surface where the pads
> ride the top ledge. About 1mm of depth and 1/2" wide looked machined.
> Don't remember if that notch is stock or not, been too long since I
> did brake work.
>
> Used regular brake grease on the pins. Probably should use a lighter
> grease or silicone, but that's all I had.
>
> I just flat let the pads get too damn thin. 2mm of difference isn't
> that much over the lifetime.
>
> Thanks for the hint though. Think I'll get a new set of pins and
> gaskets, or at least gaskets.
>

Zelix

"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx...
> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>
> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.
>
>
> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor
> on
> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout
> units.
> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>
> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
> bits and springs.
>
> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>
> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back
> in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>
> --
> DougW

I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most
painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little
springs on.

Zelix

"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx...
> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>
> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.
>
>
> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor
> on
> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout
> units.
> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>
> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
> bits and springs.
>
> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>
> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back
> in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>
> --
> DougW

I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most
painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little
springs on.

Zelix

"DougW" <I.only.read.usenet@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:LLIDi.129928$TW6.51075@newsfe06.phx...
> Well, knew it was time to work on the brakes and almost waited too long.
>
> Camera was at work, so let's go with ye olde time fambly style typovision.
>
>
> Removed rear drums, pads have about 2mm left on the worst shoe, adjustor
> on
> the left is frozen up with dust. Not a problem, easy fix, new spring kit,
> clean everything, new pads. The adjustors jeep used are quite stout
> units.
> The old Chevy was stamped tin.
>
> That was unremarkable, just messy and time consuming with all the fiddly
> bits and springs.
>
> So now on to the fronts. Got the pads, noted that they were thick and
> got to thinking about just how much actually had worn off the fronts.
> Dropped the left side and the outside pad had about 3mm. Ok.. that's
> thin. Then I look at the inside pad. BUGGER! it only has 1mm of
> surface left! (glad they were molded and not riveted) sheesh!
>
> Left side was about 3mm on both pads.
>
> Drained out almost a full brake reservoir when pushing the pistons back
> in.
> Guess I should have bled them out then, but last time I tried that it was
> one hell of a mess. Easier just to squeeze the fluid back up.
>
> Now all I need to do is flush the system out. This time I'm going
> to pay a good local mechanic to flush the brake system. It's just
> too much of a pain to do it solo, even with a vac bleeder.
>
> --
> DougW

I changed the rear brakes in my 84 explorer with a buddy. It was the most
painful experience of my life. There must be a trick to get those little
springs on.