I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
total. Ten and half to one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
>
> Chris

 

I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
total. Ten and half to one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
>
> Chris

 

I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
total. Ten and half to one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
>
> Chris

 

I won't disagree.

Finding the right rebuilder and being prepared to spend the money and
just about anything can be cleaned up properly. I have just seen too
many lazy workers so get a bit cynical sometimes....

I have doubts about the information he is getting sometimes. His
pistons are marked 58 so I don't know where the .040 over comes from.

I don't mind a rebuilt once engine although they normally won't last as
long as a factory original. Rebuilt twice, well.... Turned parts
aren't near as perfect as the factory ones 'usually' and the turn itself
means a different sized friction area.

Given a choice, I would, well I actually I did choose the used engine
with Low, 40K miles vs rebuilding my 258 myself. My old 258 is in 100%
better shape than Bills even still. I inspected it and there is minimal
bearing wear, it just leaked like a pincusion. I still have it sitting
in my garage and likely will take my time and do it up pretty.

Mike

c wrote:
>
> Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
> trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
> I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
> and I respect your opinions and advice.
>
> If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
> machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
> with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
> the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
> obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
> way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
> these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
> vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
> effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
> there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
> a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
> the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
> several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
> are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
> brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
> these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
> the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
> actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
> them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
> starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
> the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
> the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
> point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
> Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
> the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
> have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
> it is a lot tougher.
>
> If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
> for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
> or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
> .040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
> builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
> so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
> gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
> would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
> a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
> lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
> with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
> the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.
>
> BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
> Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
> matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
> (damn inflation).
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> > If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
> >
> > I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> > lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> > oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> > so are the polished cylinders.
> >
> > So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> > right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> > blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
> >
> > Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> > overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
> >
> > I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> > out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> > $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> > excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> > will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> > >
> > > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
> to a
> > > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
> configured
> > > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> > >
> > > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
> not
> > > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
> .060
> > > over but here's the question, if they do:
> > >
> > > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
> engine
> > > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
> the
> > > 4.0L head
> > > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
> don't
> > > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> > >
> > > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
> this
> > > question?
> > >
> > > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > > engine quicker?
> > >
> > > Thanks,

 

I won't disagree.

Finding the right rebuilder and being prepared to spend the money and
just about anything can be cleaned up properly. I have just seen too
many lazy workers so get a bit cynical sometimes....

I have doubts about the information he is getting sometimes. His
pistons are marked 58 so I don't know where the .040 over comes from.

I don't mind a rebuilt once engine although they normally won't last as
long as a factory original. Rebuilt twice, well.... Turned parts
aren't near as perfect as the factory ones 'usually' and the turn itself
means a different sized friction area.

Given a choice, I would, well I actually I did choose the used engine
with Low, 40K miles vs rebuilding my 258 myself. My old 258 is in 100%
better shape than Bills even still. I inspected it and there is minimal
bearing wear, it just leaked like a pincusion. I still have it sitting
in my garage and likely will take my time and do it up pretty.

Mike

c wrote:
>
> Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
> trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
> I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
> and I respect your opinions and advice.
>
> If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
> machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
> with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
> the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
> obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
> way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
> these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
> vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
> effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
> there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
> a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
> the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
> several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
> are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
> brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
> these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
> the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
> actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
> them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
> starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
> the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
> the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
> point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
> Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
> the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
> have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
> it is a lot tougher.
>
> If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
> for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
> or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
> .040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
> builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
> so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
> gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
> would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
> a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
> lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
> with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
> the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.
>
> BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
> Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
> matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
> (damn inflation).
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> > If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
> >
> > I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> > lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> > oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> > so are the polished cylinders.
> >
> > So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> > right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> > blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
> >
> > Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> > overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
> >
> > I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> > out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> > $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> > excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> > will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> > >
> > > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
> to a
> > > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
> configured
> > > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> > >
> > > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
> not
> > > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
> .060
> > > over but here's the question, if they do:
> > >
> > > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
> engine
> > > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
> the
> > > 4.0L head
> > > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
> don't
> > > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> > >
> > > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
> this
> > > question?
> > >
> > > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > > engine quicker?
> > >
> > > Thanks,

 

I won't disagree.

Finding the right rebuilder and being prepared to spend the money and
just about anything can be cleaned up properly. I have just seen too
many lazy workers so get a bit cynical sometimes....

I have doubts about the information he is getting sometimes. His
pistons are marked 58 so I don't know where the .040 over comes from.

I don't mind a rebuilt once engine although they normally won't last as
long as a factory original. Rebuilt twice, well.... Turned parts
aren't near as perfect as the factory ones 'usually' and the turn itself
means a different sized friction area.

Given a choice, I would, well I actually I did choose the used engine
with Low, 40K miles vs rebuilding my 258 myself. My old 258 is in 100%
better shape than Bills even still. I inspected it and there is minimal
bearing wear, it just leaked like a pincusion. I still have it sitting
in my garage and likely will take my time and do it up pretty.

Mike

c wrote:
>
> Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
> trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
> I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
> and I respect your opinions and advice.
>
> If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
> machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
> with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
> the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
> obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
> way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
> these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
> vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
> effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
> there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
> a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
> the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
> several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
> are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
> brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
> these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
> the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
> actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
> them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
> starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
> the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
> the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
> point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
> Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
> the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
> have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
> it is a lot tougher.
>
> If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
> for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
> or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
> .040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
> builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
> so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
> gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
> would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
> a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
> lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
> with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
> the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.
>
> BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
> Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
> matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
> (damn inflation).
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> > If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
> >
> > I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> > lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> > oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> > so are the polished cylinders.
> >
> > So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> > right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> > blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
> >
> > Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> > overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
> >
> > I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> > out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> > $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> > excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> > will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> > >
> > > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
> to a
> > > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
> configured
> > > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> > >
> > > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
> not
> > > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
> .060
> > > over but here's the question, if they do:
> > >
> > > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
> engine
> > > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
> the
> > > 4.0L head
> > > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
> don't
> > > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> > >
> > > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
> this
> > > question?
> > >
> > > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > > engine quicker?
> > >
> > > Thanks,

 

I won't disagree.

Finding the right rebuilder and being prepared to spend the money and
just about anything can be cleaned up properly. I have just seen too
many lazy workers so get a bit cynical sometimes....

I have doubts about the information he is getting sometimes. His
pistons are marked 58 so I don't know where the .040 over comes from.

I don't mind a rebuilt once engine although they normally won't last as
long as a factory original. Rebuilt twice, well.... Turned parts
aren't near as perfect as the factory ones 'usually' and the turn itself
means a different sized friction area.

Given a choice, I would, well I actually I did choose the used engine
with Low, 40K miles vs rebuilding my 258 myself. My old 258 is in 100%
better shape than Bills even still. I inspected it and there is minimal
bearing wear, it just leaked like a pincusion. I still have it sitting
in my garage and likely will take my time and do it up pretty.

Mike

c wrote:
>
> Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
> trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
> I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
> and I respect your opinions and advice.
>
> If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
> machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
> with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
> the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
> obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
> way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
> these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
> vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
> effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
> there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
> a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
> the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
> several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
> are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
> brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
> these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
> the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
> actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
> them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
> starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
> the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
> the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
> point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
> Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
> the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
> have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
> it is a lot tougher.
>
> If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
> for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
> or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
> .040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
> builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
> so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
> gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
> would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
> a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
> lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
> with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
> the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.
>
> BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
> Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
> matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
> (damn inflation).
>
> Chris
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> > If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
> >
> > I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> > lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> > oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> > so are the polished cylinders.
> >
> > So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> > right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> > blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
> >
> > Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> > overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
> >
> > I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> > out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> > $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> > excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> > will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > William Oliveri wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> > >
> > > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
> to a
> > > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
> configured
> > > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> > >
> > > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
> not
> > > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
> .060
> > > over but here's the question, if they do:
> > >
> > > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
> engine
> > > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
> the
> > > 4.0L head
> > > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
> don't
> > > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> > >
> > > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
> this
> > > question?
> > >
> > > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > > engine quicker?
> > >
> > > Thanks,

 

That's could be why you knocked the cylinders out of an engine. Nitrous
needs the timing to be retarded or the cylinder pressures go through the
roof. Most nitrous systems will retard the timing anywhere from 2 to over 12
degrees depending on how much nitrous you are using, as well as octane,
compression ratio, etc. Also to prevent detonation, colder plugs are
required, sometimes up to 4 steps. Here is a good page for this info:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer.../NOSTech4.html

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D9233.DD3B1806@***.net...
> I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
> total. Ten and half to one.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> > compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
> >
> > Chris

 

That's could be why you knocked the cylinders out of an engine. Nitrous
needs the timing to be retarded or the cylinder pressures go through the
roof. Most nitrous systems will retard the timing anywhere from 2 to over 12
degrees depending on how much nitrous you are using, as well as octane,
compression ratio, etc. Also to prevent detonation, colder plugs are
required, sometimes up to 4 steps. Here is a good page for this info:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer.../NOSTech4.html

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D9233.DD3B1806@***.net...
> I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
> total. Ten and half to one.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> > compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
> >
> > Chris

 

That's could be why you knocked the cylinders out of an engine. Nitrous
needs the timing to be retarded or the cylinder pressures go through the
roof. Most nitrous systems will retard the timing anywhere from 2 to over 12
degrees depending on how much nitrous you are using, as well as octane,
compression ratio, etc. Also to prevent detonation, colder plugs are
required, sometimes up to 4 steps. Here is a good page for this info:

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/TechSer.../NOSTech4.html

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D9233.DD3B1806@***.net...
> I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
> total. Ten and half to one.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> c wrote:
> >
> > How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> > compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
> >
> > Chris