L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

The only time I've run a bore that big is when I was cheating for
class.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
>
> I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> so are the polished cylinders.
>
> So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
>
> Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
>
> I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

c

Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
and I respect your opinions and advice.

If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
it is a lot tougher.

If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
..040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.

BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
(damn inflation).

Chris


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
>
> I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> so are the polished cylinders.
>
> So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
>
> Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
>
> I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> >
> > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
to a
> > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
configured
> > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> >
> > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
not
> > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
..060
> > over but here's the question, if they do:
> >
> > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
engine
> > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
the
> > 4.0L head
> > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
don't
> > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> >
> > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
this
> > question?
> >
> > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > engine quicker?
> >
> > Thanks,

c

Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
and I respect your opinions and advice.

If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
it is a lot tougher.

If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
..040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.

BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
(damn inflation).

Chris


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
>
> I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> so are the polished cylinders.
>
> So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
>
> Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
>
> I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> >
> > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
to a
> > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
configured
> > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> >
> > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
not
> > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
..060
> > over but here's the question, if they do:
> >
> > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
engine
> > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
the
> > 4.0L head
> > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
don't
> > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> >
> > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
this
> > question?
> >
> > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > engine quicker?
> >
> > Thanks,

c

Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
and I respect your opinions and advice.

If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
it is a lot tougher.

If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
..040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.

BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
(damn inflation).

Chris


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
>
> I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> so are the polished cylinders.
>
> So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
>
> Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
>
> I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> >
> > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
to a
> > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
configured
> > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> >
> > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
not
> > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
..060
> > over but here's the question, if they do:
> >
> > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
engine
> > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
the
> > 4.0L head
> > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
don't
> > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> >
> > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
this
> > question?
> >
> > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > engine quicker?
> >
> > Thanks,

c

Mike, I have to partially agree and disagree with you on this. I'm not
trying to start a flame war or argument or anything, so please bear with me.
I will say that I read all your posts and have learned a great deal from you
and I respect your opinions and advice.

If an engine block is properly cleaned and checked before and after
machining, it really doesn't matter how dirty or gritty it was to begin
with. The key phrase here being "properly cleaned". Taking the block down to
the local car wash and spending $2 on a quicky cleaning job doesn't cut it
obviously, although I hate to count how many engines have been cleaned this
way. There are several ways that engine shops are cleaning blocks and heads
these days, including hot taning, pressure jet solvent washers, and
vibratory baking cleaners. No matter which process is used, and they are all
effective, there is still much work to be done. You are right in saying that
there are oil passages that are probably crudded up with God knows what, but
a good engine shop will deal with that by removing every oil passage plug in
the block and running stiff, nylon cleaning brushes thru the passages
several times with both solvent, and then hot soapy water until the passages
are all spotless. Every oil pressure passage in a block is accessible by a
brush since they were originally drilled from the factory. It is easy to get
these blocks cleaner than they were the day the factory assembled them if
the time is taken. Heck, on the small block Chevys I build for racing we
actually enlarge many of the passages with very long drills and then clean
them meticulously afterwards. These particular engines are noted for
starving the main bearings at very high RPM, so in order for them to keep
the bearings in them it is almost a necessity. I won't even get into how bad
the Ford 351C oiling system is and how much needs to be done to them. My
point here though, is that the block can be used again if properly prepped.
Now, finding a good engine shop to do this may be tough, but depending on
the area it might be easier than finding another engine. Some areas seem to
have a good supply of either cores or good running engines, but some areas
it is a lot tougher.

If his block ends up being .060 overbored already, then I agree it is time
for a different block/engine. I don't know if he has had the block measured
or not, so that is the first thing that he should do. If the block it at
..040, and everything else checks out, then it is time to find a good engine
builder. I think Bill O. is in California, but I'm not sure exactly where,
so I can't help recommend an engine builder. If I were close enough, I'd
gladly do the rebuild for him. I mostly do engine work as a hobby now and
would love to tinker with a 258 or 4.0. The last inline 6 I messed with was
a Chev 250 for a hobby stock class oval racer a couple years ago. We had a
lot of fun with that once we found out that Chev 307 pistons interchange
with the 250, and it just so happens that there are 12-1 pistons made for
the 307 :-). The rest is history as they say.

BTW, your engine you're selling sounds like a heck of a deal for someone.
Too bad Bill is so far away, but maybe he can find something locally. No
matter what way he goes, I hope is works out well for him. Just my 3 cents
(damn inflation).

Chris


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407D78AC.DEDFDF83@sympatico.ca...
> If it was mine I would toss that block in the trash.
>
> I believe all the wear and polished up parts was due to lack of
> lubrication because of gas wash. Too much gas in the oil makes thin
> oil. Your bearings were textbook for a gas wash or lack of lubrication,
> so are the polished cylinders.
>
> So in light of that, all the metal that wore away has to be somewhere
> right? Think of all those little oil passages and how many of them are
> blocked or partially blocked with the metal particles.
>
> Then to make things even more interesting, you think it is a 0.040
> overbore with 0.058 overbore pistons in it?????
>
> I would be checking out the local wreckers for a low mileage used 4.0
> out of a Cherokee or newer Wrangler. I got one with 40K on it for
> $400.00 Canadian. The full long block. The thing runs beautiful, has
> excellent compression, doesn't burn oil and goes like a scalded cat. It
> will pull out fast up to 4500 rpm.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> William Oliveri wrote:
> >
> > Ok, I have been through the mill talking with mechanics, engine shops,
> > machine shops, and Hesco regarding this question.
> >
> > My 258 short block is at .040 over bore. I'm getting ready to take it
to a
> > guy for a rebuild to get this puppy back on the road. It will be
configured
> > with the 4.0L head and the Mopar MPI kit at completion.
> >
> > A lot of you have seen my cylinders posted on the web and note they do
not
> > have a ring ridge so there is a possibility they may not need a bore to
..060
> > over but here's the question, if they do:
> >
> > I have been told by several mechanics that .060 over will cause the
engine
> > to run hot or hotter than normal.
> > I checked with JeepsRUs and they said .060 will be no problem even with
the
> > 4.0L head
> > I checked with Hesco and they said the same, no problem.
> > I just talked to a engine remanufacture shop in LA who told me they
don't
> > send out anything over .030 because it will run hot.
> >
> > Am I making myself stupid over this? Why is there no consistency with
this
> > question?
> >
> > Bottom line, will it run hot with .060 over and degrade the life of the
> > engine quicker?
> >
> > Thanks,

c

How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D8A20.A286E074@***.net...
> I was just passing on what's happened to me. Sorry I didn't save
> any picture for you. Chunks about two inches square would break out of a
> couple of my Chevy small blocks, now rather than boring, I just ring,
> and hook up my nitrous: http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > That Bull. I don't know where you got your info, but if they make as a
> > stocking item a .060 piston for that engine and the manufacturer has
> > determined it's acceptable the chances of "blowing out a cyl" are 0.
Come
> > to think of it, in 30 some years making my living at and playing with
> > engines I have never seen a thin cyl wall "blow out". As to running
hotter,
> > if the cooling system is working properly you will never see any
difference
> > in operating temp and there is no need for concern on anything. The
cooling
> > system is over designed to accommodate heavy loads on hot days and still
> > leave some reserve capacity to cool. You might move slightly into that
> > reserve capacity, but I doubt even that.
> > Steve

c

How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D8A20.A286E074@***.net...
> I was just passing on what's happened to me. Sorry I didn't save
> any picture for you. Chunks about two inches square would break out of a
> couple of my Chevy small blocks, now rather than boring, I just ring,
> and hook up my nitrous: http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > That Bull. I don't know where you got your info, but if they make as a
> > stocking item a .060 piston for that engine and the manufacturer has
> > determined it's acceptable the chances of "blowing out a cyl" are 0.
Come
> > to think of it, in 30 some years making my living at and playing with
> > engines I have never seen a thin cyl wall "blow out". As to running
hotter,
> > if the cooling system is working properly you will never see any
difference
> > in operating temp and there is no need for concern on anything. The
cooling
> > system is over designed to accommodate heavy loads on hot days and still
> > leave some reserve capacity to cool. You might move slightly into that
> > reserve capacity, but I doubt even that.
> > Steve

c

How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D8A20.A286E074@***.net...
> I was just passing on what's happened to me. Sorry I didn't save
> any picture for you. Chunks about two inches square would break out of a
> couple of my Chevy small blocks, now rather than boring, I just ring,
> and hook up my nitrous: http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > That Bull. I don't know where you got your info, but if they make as a
> > stocking item a .060 piston for that engine and the manufacturer has
> > determined it's acceptable the chances of "blowing out a cyl" are 0.
Come
> > to think of it, in 30 some years making my living at and playing with
> > engines I have never seen a thin cyl wall "blow out". As to running
hotter,
> > if the cooling system is working properly you will never see any
difference
> > in operating temp and there is no need for concern on anything. The
cooling
> > system is over designed to accommodate heavy loads on hot days and still
> > leave some reserve capacity to cool. You might move slightly into that
> > reserve capacity, but I doubt even that.
> > Steve

c

How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?

Chris


"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:407D8A20.A286E074@***.net...
> I was just passing on what's happened to me. Sorry I didn't save
> any picture for you. Chunks about two inches square would break out of a
> couple of my Chevy small blocks, now rather than boring, I just ring,
> and hook up my nitrous: http://www.----------.com/pismo.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> Steve G wrote:
> >
> > That Bull. I don't know where you got your info, but if they make as a
> > stocking item a .060 piston for that engine and the manufacturer has
> > determined it's acceptable the chances of "blowing out a cyl" are 0.
Come
> > to think of it, in 30 some years making my living at and playing with
> > engines I have never seen a thin cyl wall "blow out". As to running
hotter,
> > if the cooling system is working properly you will never see any
difference
> > in operating temp and there is no need for concern on anything. The
cooling
> > system is over designed to accommodate heavy loads on hot days and still
> > leave some reserve capacity to cool. You might move slightly into that
> > reserve capacity, but I doubt even that.
> > Steve

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

I've never changed my timing it's locked at thirty eight degrees
total. Ten and half to one.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

c wrote:
>
> How much does your timing retard when you push the go button? And what
> compression ratio are you running in the nitrous engine again?
>
> Chris