Dj5-F electrical problems
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
You can easily test the solenoid.
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
You can easily test the solenoid.
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
You can easily test the solenoid.
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Do you have access to a pair of jumper cables and a 12 volt test light?
Ford made a couple different starter relays. Both had the large input and
output terminals but some had one small terminal and some had two. Please
see:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm
The test procedure is the same for both.
First remove the 2 bolts/screws holding it to the fenderwell and clean them
and the plate with a wire brush. The solenoid (relay) uses these bolts for
their ground. No ground = no work
Re-attach the solenoid and with the ignition OFF carefully place a
screwdriver across the battery (input) terminal of the relay and the
S(tarter) terminal with the wire removed. The S(tarter) terminal is the
first small one next to the battery input terminal on the left side.
If the solenoid (relay) and cables are good it will "click" and the starter
will try to crank over the engine.
If it does not 'click'/crank the engine then the battery cables are
dirty/bad , the solenoid is bad, or the engine block and head grounds are
bad..
With a jumper cable you can bypass these parts one at a time to test them
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your Jeep
> without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and sometimes
> the way folks report something and what we think that they said aren't the
> same thing. If someone asks you three questions about the battery cables
> and you answer only one there's still two things that could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a tip
> that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply> button at
> the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and click on
> <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google should quote
> the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure you answer all
> the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel free to answer
> in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
>> Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into Chrysler
> engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine). What you've
> got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block, same
> everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so when you
> go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
>> And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
>> cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
>> cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
>> happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground connections,
> especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known problem with Jeeps
> and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if the relay can't find
> ground through the fender it won't close and the starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
242 ci, 3955 cc.
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
242 ci, 3955 cc.
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
242 ci, 3955 cc.
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Dj5-F electrical problems
242 ci, 3955 cc.
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>
Earle
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:dvi4b5$isv$1@reader2.panix.com...
> Okay, now we're getting someplace. But first, Jacob, I have to tell you
> that we'll be delighted to help you /but/ you have to answer all the
> questions we ask. I'm not saying this to be persnickety. We ask them
> because they tell us what we need to know so we can help you fix your
> Jeep without making you tinger with a hundered different things, and
> sometimes the way folks report something and what we think that they
> said aren't the same thing. If someone asks you three questions about
> the battery cables and you answer only one there's still two things that
> could be broken.
>
> I see that you are posting from Google Groups. That's fine. Here's a
> tip that should make things easier: Instead of hitting the <reply>
> button at the bottom of the message, go up to the top of the message and
> click on <show Options>. From there hit the <reply> button and Google
> should quote the entire message in for you. That way you can be sure
> you answer all the questions. Even though we usually top-post here feel
> free to answer in-line so you can make thing clearer for us.
>
> (In-line replies follow)
> > Yes its a 3.8l I6
>
> A tip: Jeep folks won't know from Litres on AMC engines. They were
> always known by their cubic inch displacement (When you get into
> Chrysler engines it reverses, no one knows the c.i. of a 4.0L engine).
> What you've got is the 232ci, the older brother of the 258. Same block,
> same everything except the crank and the connecting rods, really, so
> when you go looking for parts feel free to pick from a 258 engine.
>
> You'll need this stuff eventually:
>
> Engine size ID from the casting numbers here:
> <URL:http://www.butlers-a1.com/amcm.htm>
>
> Engine size and year ID from the Engine Day Build Code stamped on a
> machined pad between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs:
> <URL:http://www.amcrc.com/tech/engine.html>
>
>
> > And by jump it i mean taking the starter moter leed
> > cable and touching it to the posative terminal on the battery Voila it
> > cranks. When i turn the key after reconnecting the leed, nothing
> > happens at all.
>
> OK, that's good. We know that your starter works and the battery is
> charged. What we don't know is how the cable from the starter relay to
> the battery is. From here follow Mike's instructions about the starter
> relay -- a small black cylinder on a metal bracket bolted to the right
> fender. Don't scoff at the advice about checking the ground
> connections, especially under the relay -- bad grounds are a known
> problem with Jeeps and cause a variety of problems. Like Mike said, if
> the relay can't find ground through the fender it won't close and the
> starter won't energize.
>
> Let us know how you make out.
>