L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Lucky you.
> How many times have you changed your fuel filter, once every twenty
> five thousand miles, as the book calls for? Your filter is hidden under
> a shield along the frame rail. That is any fuel filter that will hold a
> hundred pounds pressure.
> This hypothetical BS is real if you live in San Diego.

My fuel filter is 10 inches from my TBI

Even if I lived in SD I would consider it BS, as the only way this Jeep
is seeing the Baja would be if it were stolen by someone with extremely
poor judgment :)

Now stop with the hypothetical BS Bill

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

"Kevin" <troubledloner@netzero.net> wrote in
news:1152826373.626627.165980@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> I first thought I had an air leak in the intake manifold, which I
> might.

It probably is an air leak, read on...


> However, when I disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance at the
> distribtor to check the timing I noticed it was idling and running
> smooth and consistent under acceleration again. So this leads me
> to believe this is a distributor issue.

Yup.

> What does that dashpot/diaphram at the base of the distributor do
> anyway?

The dash pot/diaphragm advances the spark to maximum under light load
when you have maximum vacuum, it retards the spark under heavy load to
prevent pinging.

Sounds very much like your dash pot/diaphragm (vacuum advance) is
ruptured. Easy to check, just connect tubing to the fitting on the
vacuum advance unit and suck. If it's leaking, you'll know it, if it's
good it'll hold the advance.

Oh, and prepare for a shock when you go to buy a new one, they're REAL
proud of those things for what they are..... :-(

 

"Kevin" <troubledloner@netzero.net> wrote in
news:1152826373.626627.165980@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> I first thought I had an air leak in the intake manifold, which I
> might.

It probably is an air leak, read on...


> However, when I disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance at the
> distribtor to check the timing I noticed it was idling and running
> smooth and consistent under acceleration again. So this leads me
> to believe this is a distributor issue.

Yup.

> What does that dashpot/diaphram at the base of the distributor do
> anyway?

The dash pot/diaphragm advances the spark to maximum under light load
when you have maximum vacuum, it retards the spark under heavy load to
prevent pinging.

Sounds very much like your dash pot/diaphragm (vacuum advance) is
ruptured. Easy to check, just connect tubing to the fitting on the
vacuum advance unit and suck. If it's leaking, you'll know it, if it's
good it'll hold the advance.

Oh, and prepare for a shock when you go to buy a new one, they're REAL
proud of those things for what they are..... :-(

 

"Kevin" <troubledloner@netzero.net> wrote in
news:1152826373.626627.165980@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> I first thought I had an air leak in the intake manifold, which I
> might.

It probably is an air leak, read on...


> However, when I disconnected and plugged the vacuum advance at the
> distribtor to check the timing I noticed it was idling and running
> smooth and consistent under acceleration again. So this leads me
> to believe this is a distributor issue.

Yup.

> What does that dashpot/diaphram at the base of the distributor do
> anyway?

The dash pot/diaphragm advances the spark to maximum under light load
when you have maximum vacuum, it retards the spark under heavy load to
prevent pinging.

Sounds very much like your dash pot/diaphragm (vacuum advance) is
ruptured. Easy to check, just connect tubing to the fitting on the
vacuum advance unit and suck. If it's leaking, you'll know it, if it's
good it'll hold the advance.

Oh, and prepare for a shock when you go to buy a new one, they're REAL
proud of those things for what they are..... :-(

 

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.

Mike, I lubricated the distr. advance plate and it seems to have helped
somewhat. The pot is holding suction so I think it is fine. I have
since been testing every vacuum line and various other elements of the
emissions system. I think the Coolant Temperature Switch is bad. I'm
getting no change in idle when the switch is unplugged or not.
Furthemore, shorting out the terminals of the harness has no affect
which tells me a short must exist upstream somewhere. I'm still trying
to locate where all the wires go. The switch itself reads .2-.4 ohms
whether the engine is hot or cold.

Some other details include it has a brand new EGR Valve which seems to
be working correctly and a brand new cat. and purge canister. The
Oxygen sensor is fairly new but one of the cracks in the exhaust
manifold was just an inch away from the sensor so I don't know if that
could have damaged it. If you have more ideas on what to look at first
I would love to hear them. Thanks again.
Kevin

 

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.

Mike, I lubricated the distr. advance plate and it seems to have helped
somewhat. The pot is holding suction so I think it is fine. I have
since been testing every vacuum line and various other elements of the
emissions system. I think the Coolant Temperature Switch is bad. I'm
getting no change in idle when the switch is unplugged or not.
Furthemore, shorting out the terminals of the harness has no affect
which tells me a short must exist upstream somewhere. I'm still trying
to locate where all the wires go. The switch itself reads .2-.4 ohms
whether the engine is hot or cold.

Some other details include it has a brand new EGR Valve which seems to
be working correctly and a brand new cat. and purge canister. The
Oxygen sensor is fairly new but one of the cracks in the exhaust
manifold was just an inch away from the sensor so I don't know if that
could have damaged it. If you have more ideas on what to look at first
I would love to hear them. Thanks again.
Kevin

 

Thanks to everyone who has replied so far.

Mike, I lubricated the distr. advance plate and it seems to have helped
somewhat. The pot is holding suction so I think it is fine. I have
since been testing every vacuum line and various other elements of the
emissions system. I think the Coolant Temperature Switch is bad. I'm
getting no change in idle when the switch is unplugged or not.
Furthemore, shorting out the terminals of the harness has no affect
which tells me a short must exist upstream somewhere. I'm still trying
to locate where all the wires go. The switch itself reads .2-.4 ohms
whether the engine is hot or cold.

Some other details include it has a brand new EGR Valve which seems to
be working correctly and a brand new cat. and purge canister. The
Oxygen sensor is fairly new but one of the cracks in the exhaust
manifold was just an inch away from the sensor so I don't know if that
could have damaged it. If you have more ideas on what to look at first
I would love to hear them. Thanks again.
Kevin